KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Yes Ian - My advice would be to cut right through where you have scored the line leaving only about a half inch at either end of the line to maintain the attachment to the up-stand. When you come to cut the hull from the base board cut it off some where near your letter B. Then remove the remainder of the up-stand by cutting through the "half inch" attachment areas. Have a look at posing 212 on my Cangarda build for further detail / options. -
Valeriy - very net. The more usual term for the chimney is either a funnel or a smoke stack, but who am I to comment as I don't speak a single word of Ukrainian.
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Wonderful eagle 👏
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The planking is really well done Hakan - the hull looks very professional. As for the workshop - I have been giving mine a miss as the wall thermometer says 4.5 centigrade. It has been a bit cold out side but temperatures bounce back to plus 6c today, so the worksop may get more affection this week.
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Ian - this might provide some guidance. https://www.building-model-boats.com/model-boat-motor.html
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Ian - it is quite soft but no where near as soft or furry as balsa. An alternative would be Lime. Both would work reasonably well as a foundation for fibreglass. You can look here http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/materials_and_tools/Modelling_Woods.pdf on the MSW web site for recommended woods and their uses. However the best approach is to do what you are comfortable with in the knowledge that if it doesn't work you can always rip it off ant try something else. Basswood
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Ian, ply is more difficult to sand than basswood but in principle there is no reason why it can't be used. I assume you don't have the means of cutting your own planks from basswood? You are going to find that the planks will need to tapered to fit on the frames - wider at the middle of the boat and narrower at stem and stern. Also to get smooth curve round the hull the need to be relatively narrow - probably no wider than 5mm. Some may need to be even narrower.
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We modellers do live an exciting life, don't we. 🙂
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She looks immaculate - probably better finished than the real thing.
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Good progress Ras.
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Nils - excellent work - I like the way the crew and passengers bring your models to life. I worry about the blond lady, she looks like her reserve of stability is somewhat suspect. She would be advised to take a step back from the rail.
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Hello Ian - welcome to MSW - I use Pritt Stick - and then peel / sand it off. I would suggest basswood for planking. You may find 3mm balsa planks are a bit too fragile when it comes to shaping - particularly if the frames are widely spaced (as they tend to be on Model Boats plans). If the spacing is wide balsa planks will tend to "straighten" between the frames producing a series of flats. Have a look here for wood. https://www.slecuk.com/allcategories - Decent service and reasonable cost. I had a look at your railway model link. You shouldn't find ship modelling too much of a transition. Keep asking questions, MSW is a friendly and helpful place. Good luck.
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Eric - she does seem to be an interesting and utilitarian design - no doubt built to a budget. I note one of the earlier photos shows her with quite a lot of passengers without any apparent guard rails on the upper deck. Presumably all very acceptable in her day when passengers were expected to take a modicum of personal responsibility for their own safety.
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Excellent authenticity Andy, and a nicely engineered jig.
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Hakan Seems a little cold and a good reason to stay indoors - although I hear our Canadian friend think it is shorts and T shirt weather at that sort of temperature. My workshop has rarely dipped below 10 c so far this year so no recourse to heating as yet but today the temperature is heading down at a fair old rate. Hull looking very good.
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You make it sound very easy Brian. But I am sure I could screw it up. However I am very jealous. Now how to buy one secretly and convince the wife it's just a barbecue.😀
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Richard - yes it was intentional. Much easier to adjust from being too deep than adjust from being too shallow - being too shallow might involve correcting multiple slots or alternatively making the majority over deep and just a couple correct.
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Excellent.
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https://www.malcosaw.com
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Thunder - see above post. Im not sure what size you need but these blades are available in many diameters and thicknesses - although you might need a spacer for the bore.
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Amazon:- They have a 22mm bore - not 0.5" as on the Byrnes saw. Jim used to sell spacers but I guess they are not available at the moment. Making spacers is very easy if you know someone with a lathe.
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