amateur

Hi Maury,

did you hit the “ignore”-button on your own log? Your last post dates from thursday, and was right on top of the list.

(at least, when I looked at it)

 
[edit]
just checked. You can’t ignore your own topics.

you can change the sorting of the list of postings. Perhaps you changed to something else than ‘recent first’

Jan

Can't see it based on the pics, but it could also be a brass signal gun. 

And it looks as if the carriage was brown from its beginning.

Jan

I see, I already thought so: hz sounds like huizen, but it is a non-existent code.

For all non-dutch: Dutch law presribed an indication on the mainsail which made the ship reconizable: the lettering refers to the home-port, the number is just a count: the order of registration. First ship registerd got a 1, second 2 etc.

Jan

Looks great!

in the first pics only the fact that the lid on the 'bun' are missing (and show a non-rendered grey insidegave themodel away.

in your last pic,I guess most skippers wouldhave reduced sailjust to main and fore-sail, and would have stricken bezaan and kluiver when the wind startd to grow steonger (especially because the fishing gear is still out)

Is Hu37 a fictitious ship? (Couldn't make out the village that uses hu as indication)

Jan

Is that americo vespuci n the background?

Jan

8 hours ago, cog said:

Strange, I like British vintage cars .. but yes, there are quite some 2CV's still running daily on our roads, with the odd Mehari as  an ugly duckling

There are even places where you can rent them for a day out. Near higway A12: duckcity.nl. Rent a Duck for a party, day out, etc. 

Seems to be a nice business.... I don't have positive memories with those ugly ducklings: leaking, not wind and water proof.

Jan

It is not isolated, the last pic in my log also rotated.

but as it is long ago that I uploaded it, I don't know when it rotated.

It only happened to the pics that I made using my Iphone, manually rotated, and uploaded. When uploaded it had the orientation I gave to it, now it is back to its original orientation. No need to correct it, but just to letyou know that something changed (somewhere, sometime).

Jan

Hi Mike,

The question often arises. But - without any pics or additional info - my guess would be that those models are worth their sentimental value. 

Remembrance to (grand)dad, but without any monetary value to the outside world.

As you say that they have been in a bedroomshelf, my guess is that they are something like 'decorators models', that were quite common between 1935-1975. Mass produced, intended to give the impression of a somewhat older model, depicting a shiptype, rather than an actual ship.

Jan

Perhaps a stupid question, but what ship/model is shown in the new banner?

(or do I now officially qualify as an outsider by not knowing ? )

Jan

Fun! Another out-of-the-ordinary build.:)

Jan

Haven't posted here for some time, but the model has turned out very convincing!

All the research and work has certainly paid off.

Jan

Can your "home production" cope with the potential increase of demand without damage to your health,

or are you in for a 24/7 year -round production scheme to keep up?

Jan

In my experience: the pinrail does not split at drilling (especially not when using a sharp drill in a dremel), it splits when you try to force a 1.55 mm pin in a 1.5 mm hole.....

I didn't drill many rails, but for me the following, rather lowtech solution worked: 

take the piece of wood, mark the positions of the pins (using a needle, and along a ruler to get the holes on a straight line, evenly spaced. Drill 'pilot holes' using a .5 mm dril (by hand, why not?) and drill again using a 1,5 mm drill

btw: you could also stop at the .5 mm, as these are probably more in scale. You can use .5 steel wire to make your pins (using while glue to form the head). His will help you to make strong, thing and long enough pins. I think (but am not sure) that Edt shows this inhis Yong America build log)

Jan

According to wiki: build as an 18 gun, three masted privateer in 1757 by the french .

refitted/reclassed as mortar-vessel twice in her career.

Jan

I didn't realize that the whole back-end of the car would turn in mahogany, I thought it would be the upper side only.

And with respect to the wheels: as the respoked ones are so much better than the originals, I don't beleive you when you say you are never goibng to do that again. You will be doing it, as it is worth the time and nasty words.

Jan

Are you sure yhay you dn't actually sell two norske lowes for the price of one?

The box with the red flags is at least ten years older than the other two boxes.

Billings fittings used to be a bit disappointing: plastic blocks, ugly thread.....

Jan

I don't know whether there is a rule on which side to taper.

I only know that for me getting the taper right is better achieved when the taper is on the side of the previous plank.

I never tried the method you describe, so I'm not going to comment on that. As far as I can see, the theory is correct. Part of the real life is: will your planks side-bend or not. If not, you are back to: let them go where they want to, but in that case your planking will not have a nice flow in planking bands.

Jan

Still struggling to get the size of this model....

I had a neighbor riding a 50 cc mini-motorbike once. I have the feeling that your model is larger than his mini-bike.

Jan

In that case: don’t forget to correct for the thickness of the ‘missing’ first layer. 
Filling in certainky helps to have a nice surface, but the probllem of forcing your planks remains essentially the same. (Although reduced to te outer layer only)

Jan

I know it is difficult (and I don't know how much spare you have), but my advice would be: start over.

Jan

Hi John,

to me it is not clear that you removed to much material. To me it looks as if youtend to force your planks into the oosition you want them to be, but where they don't want to go. 

Forcing your planks results in a kind of 'stepped' appearance of tour bow, as the underside of the planks will tend to bend outward. 

When you take a strip and lay it at 90 degrees over the planks you did so far, the strip should lay flat over the planks. As soon as you see small triangular openings, you know you are forcing too much. Antother check: pin your next plank on the two midship framse, an let the plank decide where it wants to go. If it does not go nextto the previous, but runs over the previous plank, you have an indication that you are forcing too much.

In that case, to have a nice run of you planks, you should either use drop planks (planks that do not reach the bow), or side bend your planks. However, It is hardly ever possible to sidebend your planks, unless you have rather flexible, good quality wood. European kits quite often have rather thick, open grained, not so flexible stuff....

There is a very nice planking tutorial somewhere here on MSW. I lost the link, but you should be able to find it.

Jan

Definitely not a model to display in your living (unless your living appears to be in something likethe White House)

For what purpose was it started (and where will it end up after you are finished? Not a warehouse agin, I hope)

Jan

On 5/20/2020 at 11:25 AM, cog said:

 I've been in the same room for over 8 weeks, feels like a straight jacket, and makes(?) me a mental case

I thought I was theonly one going crazy, but apparently not.

The sooner we go back to normal, the better, as far as I'm concerned. The officeis for work, the home for building and messing around. Mixing those up, isnot a good strategy. (Atleast: not for me)

Jan

Never seen that one before.

Looks a nice model.

Jan

Hi Dan,

thanks for showing your last model.

Wish you strength for  the time that comes.

Jan