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amateur

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Everything posted by amateur

  1. These type of ships are more often found in cardboard than in kit-edition. (titanic being the exception ) Jan
  2. Apparently, you are not too happy. Am I still allowed to say I like the result? Many of the issues you mention are not very prominent in the pictures, so all I see is a nice model of an unusual (at least, atMSW) ship. with respect to the masking tape: tamiya sells a masking tape that is rather flexible, so that is easier to stick to curved, and slightly uneven surfaces. When paint does bleed, I discoverd that scraping using a sharp knife most of the time works better that sandpaper: scraping does not damage the surface, sandpaper does. Jan
  3. Too light is better than too heavy. please give us a video. She deserves to be in the water!
  4. Hi Doris, did you change your goldpaint since the SoS? Jan
  5. I was a bit surprised to see that the stay is attached to the top, and not to the mast itself. I always thought taht the more modern shipsfollowed the old-time practice to use a collar around the masttop for the stays. Learned something new today Jan
  6. Hi Greg, Quite often google translate is capable of transforming those Russion captions to something more or less understandable By the way: I very much like the camo on the ships hull. I was wondering whether you will be able to mask the camo on the upper structures, or that you have to spray/paint them just by hand. Jan
  7. Just a question: The slip can hold keel, stern and bulkheads into position. It can even be used to turn the model side-upwards. But it looks as if there is little margin when the stern has not the same thickness as the MDF-piece. (the clamps in step 6 and 16 look rather rigid to me) Is there any flexibility when your stern is thicker/thinner than the one of the example-model? Jan
  8. Are you going to fully rig her, or will this be a 'hull-only' model? jan
  9. I never ordered directly at seawatch, but as far as I heard, they are both in business and reliable. Some MSW-members publish quite some work through seawatch. I never heard them complain, nor their customers.... Jan
  10. Leaning forward was a good thing to do. each and every time I think it cannot get better. Each and every time you prove the opposite. I have run out for superlatives...... jan
  11. And the model should be firmly bolted to whatever, to prevent it from tipping over again Jan
  12. Don't show the ruler of your hand, and people would happily believe that it is a fair sized model of a horse. I like the horse very much. Hope you can make a fitting horseman. Jan
  13. Hi Piet, Working on the display, but still tweaking on the ship. I thought you said you were finished apart from the case I agree with Mark: thinning out did add. What will be next? Jan
  14. Glad you did not forget us. Paper or wood, please share it with us, Jan
  15. I know that almost al Dutch inland water ships have iron stropping at these blocks. Never seen a pic showing rope-stropping. Jan
  16. Not really new news. Happens quite often that the kit does not show the eal stuff, or just gives some fake history. Jan
  17. Two remarks on that: These sculptings would need flexible molds, as there is detail on the sides of them, and there are open spaces under the scrollwork. The castings would require severe detailing afterwards. secondly: part of the atmosphere of this model is in the high degree of consistency, but also in the slight variations between the almost equal parts. I guess the model looses some of its charm by using castings. Jan
  18. It was one of the difficult parts: the blocks are not heany enough to get the line sag naturally. I did not use the corel-thread, but something else (I think it was Amati), and far thinner than the Corel-line. I started from the bowsprit, next the running part to which the spider blocks are attached (without tying that one off to the stay). Next the 'spider part' working inside out, using clove-hitches to tie them to the stay. next I have attached a small weight (paper clip) to the spider blocks, and have been tweaking endlessly with the running part to get thetension right. As soon as it looked okay, I have more or less fixed the whole thing, by brushing it with a diluted white glue. It took me at least four or five tries to get the thing more or less good, without overtensioning it, and having the stay pulled outward. And yes, I have been rerigging the stay-block to get more tension onthe stay... Both blocks are almost touchi g now, as Ineeded quite a lot of tension in the stay to have the whole looking OK. Problem was also that my spritmast tended to go backward, as I tensioned the lines. Delicate balance indeed. Jan
  19. Hi Piet, I guess this is the end of your tweaking? Or do you still see room for improvement. Judging by the pics I think you have nailed it: Ship, water, smoke, action. Great model. Jan
  20. I can live with that As it llpks now, she will be up to your usual standard Where do you buy the syringe and needles? Jan
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