Jump to content
HOLIDAY DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING! (89 donations so far out of 49,000 members - C'mon guys!) ×

amateur

Members
  • Posts

    3,529
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by amateur

  1. Yamaha-site will be closing vrry soon. Download one if you need one! jan
  2. Beatifull work! that yamaha, is that one of those things consistong of a trillion parts? jan
  3. To please @cog, here are some better quality pics (Canon 400D, Tamron-macro-lense, tripod: this is the best I can deliver :)) The first is the focsle, after some tydying up, and finishing off ropes. The problem is: as the deck shouldn't be there, the belying pins are much to low, so there is no way of forming neat rope coils: they should almost all be put down on the deck. The second one is an oldie: nothing changed here: Here is the line that was cut of in the block. Good enough for me And here the top: And here the work still to do: Main mast, and mizzen, both rigged, but not finished..... But tomorrow my summer holidays are over, and work kicks in..... And yes: all the fuzz you see is dust. After 15 years, she is getting a bit dusty Jan
  4. I wasm't so much wondering as to whether the question would be asked, but more who would ask it. I got my answer Perhaps tomorrow, not now: battery of my camera is flat, and I don't like to start up my PC to transfer the pics. Jan
  5. And my first problem showed up: Corel does not have proper belaying points for all ropes around the fore mast. in stead you have to glue the rope into a hole in the deck. So, when the rope does need retensioning, there is no way of doing that without destroying what is there..... I cut the rope from the hole, but was left with too little lenght to reattach it. I glued a new rope into the deck, and will try (wish me luck) to hide the fact that there are two ropes in the first block it will go through..... And forgive me the quality of the pic: done with an Ipad, with no flash. I promise better pics will follow (don't aks me when ) Jan
  6. Now, where was I? PW is still on the table, but since we decided to sell our previous home, no work was done. So, it was like this, and still is, gathering dust on the table. I would like to do some work on him this week, but there are so many orher things to do: garden, house-things, work Jan
  7. These type of ships are more often found in cardboard than in kit-edition. (titanic being the exception ) Jan
  8. Apparently, you are not too happy. Am I still allowed to say I like the result? Many of the issues you mention are not very prominent in the pictures, so all I see is a nice model of an unusual (at least, atMSW) ship. with respect to the masking tape: tamiya sells a masking tape that is rather flexible, so that is easier to stick to curved, and slightly uneven surfaces. When paint does bleed, I discoverd that scraping using a sharp knife most of the time works better that sandpaper: scraping does not damage the surface, sandpaper does. Jan
  9. Too light is better than too heavy. please give us a video. She deserves to be in the water!
  10. Hi Doris, did you change your goldpaint since the SoS? Jan
  11. I was a bit surprised to see that the stay is attached to the top, and not to the mast itself. I always thought taht the more modern shipsfollowed the old-time practice to use a collar around the masttop for the stays. Learned something new today Jan
  12. Hi Greg, Quite often google translate is capable of transforming those Russion captions to something more or less understandable By the way: I very much like the camo on the ships hull. I was wondering whether you will be able to mask the camo on the upper structures, or that you have to spray/paint them just by hand. Jan
  13. Just a question: The slip can hold keel, stern and bulkheads into position. It can even be used to turn the model side-upwards. But it looks as if there is little margin when the stern has not the same thickness as the MDF-piece. (the clamps in step 6 and 16 look rather rigid to me) Is there any flexibility when your stern is thicker/thinner than the one of the example-model? Jan
  14. Are you going to fully rig her, or will this be a 'hull-only' model? jan
  15. I never ordered directly at seawatch, but as far as I heard, they are both in business and reliable. Some MSW-members publish quite some work through seawatch. I never heard them complain, nor their customers.... Jan
  16. Leaning forward was a good thing to do. each and every time I think it cannot get better. Each and every time you prove the opposite. I have run out for superlatives...... jan
  17. And the model should be firmly bolted to whatever, to prevent it from tipping over again Jan
  18. Don't show the ruler of your hand, and people would happily believe that it is a fair sized model of a horse. I like the horse very much. Hope you can make a fitting horseman. Jan
  19. Hi Piet, Working on the display, but still tweaking on the ship. I thought you said you were finished apart from the case I agree with Mark: thinning out did add. What will be next? Jan
  20. Glad you did not forget us. Paper or wood, please share it with us, Jan
  21. I know that almost al Dutch inland water ships have iron stropping at these blocks. Never seen a pic showing rope-stropping. Jan
×
×
  • Create New...