amateur

Hi Daniel, There is somethinhg i don't understand: on pics of the Vid, it can be seen taht the forechannels are about as wide as the postlids are high. (The open lids of the upper row of guns can be seen almost in line with the outer edge of the channels. It looks as if your channels are much wider than that. Is that optic illusion, or are you hammock cranes too wide compared to the orriginal? Jan

Up to your usualstandard. Very nice! Jan

What is the problem with the rudder of your model? Wouldhave thought that a rudder can't go wrong.... Jan

Hello Sandor, I don't know whether or not you can see the pics on this forum (they changed their open/restricted status) https://modelbrouwers.nl/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=377393 The model is a model from the maritime museum in Antwerp. (The same as the model you showed above) Jan

A proper dutch guilder. I like that! Any progress on the hull? Jan

Yeah, the exposy is next on my list. Problem is that the whole thing is a bit unstable until the glue sets. CA sets conveniently quick, epoy needs a fair bit longer. Jan

As a small inbwtween job, I did not do any rigging today, but tried to make a stern lantern. (i definitely refuse to use teh Corel-stuf from the kit) I came up with a third prototype (still to be improved upon, yes, I know) The problem are still numerous: 1. gluing of the window-panes 2. the orientation of the six-sided top and bottom (the whole thing should end up symmetrically ) 3. the copper wire was glued in with CA. It turned the window-panes into the famous milky-white (on the inside of course....) Jan

What is your problem? There are two ways of showing them Either you upload them to something like picasa or photostream and use a link in your post placed between [img ] and after the link, aain between square brackets: /img The orher option is to attach your pics to the post itself, by using the full editor to edit your pist, and use the option attacht file. The last one has the advantage that your pic will remain visible as it is stored together with the post itself. Jan

I don't see the pics Finsing the centerline is a problem, certainly for those rough carved hulls. Is the keelslot also carved into the hull?, that may complicate things in vase that slot isn't straight, or out of center. (I once had such a hull, i gave up on symmetry...) I have seen pics of people using a table saw to split the hull in havles, using the keel slot as a guideline. Rather drastic, and it requires adding an additional layer, to compensate for the width of the sawblade. It results in a nice visible line however, that is straight in alldirectiins. The simple option is the one suggested above with a paper template (and hoping the precaved hull is reasonably correct) Jan

Frohe Weihnachten und ein gute Rutsch ins neue Jahr! Jan

Check again The Prins Willem book isn't very clear, no. It is missing some info on rigging. Besides, Ketting himself isn't very consistent: he re-rigged the museum model, build his own version, and did make a drawing. Those three aren't giving the same info. The model as shown in the book is not rigged according to his own drawings. Besides, quite a lot of what he draws isn't correct, as I discovered when it was too late . More specific: Ketting incorporates things in his rigging that weren't introduced decades after PW was build. However, it still makes a nice looking model. With respect to rigging your Surabay: you can follow Hoving. However the rigging schemes by Hoving are for ships without topgallants. You'll have to decide were to belay the topgalant stuff. You can decide to belay part of it on the deadeyes in the main tops. (which saves space on your bulwarks and knights). I don't know whether or not that is correct fot the period, Dik also shows that kind of rigging for the Zeven Provincien, but he mentiones no source for it. The model of the Dutch twodecker (1670) shows all running ends of all ropes, tackles, lanyards etc going all the way down to the deck/bulwark. The same info is (implicitly) in the book by Ketting on p.99, where he shows all ropes passing the main top to the deck below. I decided to belay a number of these ropes in the main top, to save some space at the foot of the mast (I already needed to belay two ropes on one belaying pin ). My Christmas was a good one. Even managed to do some riggin work on my Prins... Jan

Schade, schade. Ich dachte du hat endlich etwas neues gebastelt. Aber du bist nicht einmal zu hause. Und wie sollen wir wissen am welchem Huegel du sitzt mit fanta und ein Stein!?? Jan

Now he doesn't need the book anymore btw: what about copyright? Jan

Hi Piet, I tried to PM you, but I can't send you any PM's. Either you disabled the personal messenger, or your mailbox is full. Jan

I checked again onValkenisse, valkenisse has slightly more space between the halfdeck and the mast, so that the knights can be placed on the halfdeck. Not an option for you, thouogh (unless you decide for major surgery). You need that heavy knight behind the mast though. So yes, placing it on the halfdedk would be an option. Don't forget: it should not be on the heartline of the deck, but slightly ro the right (or perhaps the left, I'm not going to decide that for you ) You also need a place to attacht the lanyards of the stays (the ones for the topmasts, that is) For my Prins Willem, I find the belaying plan of the Pinas by Hoving very helpful, although some improvisation is needed, as that ship has for sails less than Prins Willem. Jan

Hi Piet, I don't know whether you can disregard the boordknecjten (napier translates it as kevels, in his book on Valkenisse). Even Valkenisse (large VOC ship, 1717) and the famous Dutch twodecker (ship of war, 1670) have a number of them. Also Witsen (may be Van IJK) describes these things, also for latger ships. You need a number of those heavy kruishouten, mainly for the lines of the main sail. Also a fair number of belaying points around the foor of the mast (I have too f ew of them ,even though I don't install sails). Those belayingpoints on the mast are for the parrels. Alsmost all others are belayed to knights of abelaying rack etween the knights. All knights at the foor of the mast have sheaves in them. You need largerknights with sheaves for The halliards, but smaller ones left and right behind of the mast for more heavy stuff. It's a pity that Rob Napier didn't include a belayingplan to his book. You could have used that. Jan

Hi Piet, She's better every time we see her. Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you and Gwen. Jan

Make sure you have a cheap dopy. Some (mainly US shops) charge ridiculous prices for the book. Jan

Hello Aa-schipper, (Btw must be a canoe on the Aa ). mars would make a nice model. Ever considered bying that orher book by Petrejus : brik Irene? Could also be very helpfull building this ship. Jan

Hi Sandor, The pic you show is not 'just an other modl'. It is the model (or a very good copy of it) that is owned by the naval Museum in Den Helder (Netherlands). It is a model build by the original builder of these ships, and shows the ship 'as build'. In your case i would believe the planking pattern of this model. Jan

Ah, that's why your hair looks so gorgeous @Chuck. I bend the planking using a iron, using the model itself as a guideline. I find it alomost impossible to get the correct bend in one go. So I make a bend, try it on the ship, and repeat, until the desired curve is there (or, in my case almost equally likely, I have to start over again, as the wood splitted) Jan

Hi Kees, I wouldn't label that as schematic.... Quite nicely detailed on this scale. Jan

I like your paintjob! Jan

But as long as those still look way better than my own best efforst, I wouldn't mind looking at your glitches (Not interested in buying, though ) Jan

Looks like it, yes. Jan