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Rigging tools how are they used
amateur replied to Telp's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
HI Nick, at what scale do you work? In my Prins Willem (Corel 1:100), these thigs tend to be on the large side (their length is OK to reach, but they tend to get caught by the other rigging. A long hooked tweezer does the work better in my opinion. I also use a needle threader to get those lines through the blocks. doesn't cost anything, but is a great help. Jan -
Rigging tools how are they used
amateur replied to Telp's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have those. Apart fromthe hook, i havent used any of the ends. Buy yourself a couple of high quality pliers, I use those far more often. Jan -
Now I come to think of it: isn't strange that it's equally crowded on both windward and lee side? Jan
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Stupid question, but how did you treat the blade? Jan
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'the rope running inside the bullwark' Ah, I see: implicit announcement of yet another destruction. Jan
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I see, there are two clamps next to the gunport, onthe inside of thebulkhead. Sorry, will look harder before asking next time. Jan
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How were the gunport tackles belayed? It seems as if the ports are too low to belay them on the beams of the deck above. Jan
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in Northern Europe they loved colours during that period. Try to google for pictures of church interiors (pulpits, Organ cases). You'll be surprised. I don't see why the important ships of that period would not be painted according to the same taste and style. (picture linked form wikipedia, church in Basedow (Northern Germany) With respect to the Dutch 'working ships': the main preservative was Stockholm tar. Hull. rigging, anything. Some paint was used, but a very restricted number of colours. And gold leaf was just too much: I don't know of any ships completely covered in gold. Some highlights perhaps (the lions crown, heraldy, but certainly not the 'ordinary' carving.) Even on their models the Dutch used gold sparingly. Jan
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I used to do it that way, until I saw something much easier, and far less risky. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/230-hms-vulture-by-dan-vadas-1776-148-scale-16-gun-swan-class-sloop-from-tffm-plans-completed/page-79#entry264191 the whole seizing is fake, and the strop is just secured with some PVA at the oppiosite end of the block. As I work in 1:100 scale, this worked far more neatly (you can make the seizing much smaller, without increasing the risk of the strop loosening while at tension. Jan
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Are you sure that Dutch anchors of that period were strapped? In early years they were just bolted. . I am not sure when they changed to iron bands. Edit: actually, after some googling I'm pretty sure you don't need straps. Look at one of the models in the Rijksmuseum: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/NG-MC-652 Alos others in maritiemdigitaal do not show straps. This one shows the position of the bolts quite nicely: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/zoeken/objecten?q=William+rex&p=1&ps=12&ii=0#/NG-MC-651,0 Jan
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Thanks, that makes things clear Having loked at the before and after pictures, i would say that no-one would ever have notied the difference, let alone would have noticed your first version was a bit 'out of period' Jan
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Explain please. This is the messenher, together with the capstan, but why, why why?? Jan
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Suspense, why?? You probably are destroying something already build, Replacing it by something unbeleivebly better And them ask for more kudo's Jan
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The recipe all over the internet says: 1 teacup of salt, 3 teacups flour, 1 cup of water (or less, when the mixture gets too thin), and one teaspoon of vegetable oil. Mix salt and fliour, then add oil and water till consistency is correct. Never tried to make the stuff myself (just used the stuff pprepared by our kindergarten teacher ) Jan
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