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amateur

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  1. It's not that strange. These ships were build by the thousands, so none of them had any fame orname for itself. Also, the builders worked 'by the eye'. So no drawings exist. The model crackers showed is based ona reconstruction by Hoving (indeed, the same), and is based on a few rukes of thumb, and a written description of the ship stating lenght, width, and number of decks. Next to taht, as theseships were just objects tobe used, and easily discarded when their economic life was over, thereare virtually no contemporary models. Take all thattogether, and you seewhy kitmakers do not go into dutchshipbuilding: no examples to copy, no famous ships. The only two execptions are the twoships i mentioned abobe: both have an example that could be copied. A third model that was loosely based on a dutch ship (albeit with grave errors) was the Friesland by Mamoli. Firm doesn't exist, but that modelwas based on an model that was destroyed inthe war: a dutch warship of around 1670. The history that Mamoli gives of the ship is utter nonsense, but apparently ships without history (especially the latrger ones) do not sell. While writing, I realize that there is a third alternative. One of the forummembers (Hans) has made a kit of Batavia. Slightly tooearly for you, but a nice alternative to Prins Willem. (Can't comment on the quality of the kit, as I have never seen it real life) Jan
  2. Crackers was quicker Btw Derflinger is a very, very bad reconstruction of a Dutch fluit.... Al,ost correct with respect tothesite: http://nautarch.tamu.edu The exact link that takes you to the drawings: http://nautarch.tamu.edu/shiplab/AbHoving.htm Jan
  3. Hi apell, That's a rather difficult questionto answer. As long as you don't know what type of ship the "vergulde otter" was, there is quite a range of ships that would fit the bill. Even a fluit would do. On one of his journeys to Australia, ABel Tasman had both a jacht, and a fluit to his disposal. Nothing wrong with the seaworthiness of a fluit. In some other respect, it is an easy question to answer: no kits available for Dutch ships from that period. corel's Prins Willem is closest. A rather heavy armed merchant. As she is a rather large ship, i guess otter would have been smaller. , and less heavily armed that the Corel-version of the PW (which overgunned by any standard btw).prins Willem is a 1651-ship, he kit is based on a contemporary model. Other kits are ships of an earlier period (eg half moon, also by Corel, and a very nice version by Billing boats). Theseare ships of around 1600, so way too early for you. That's the kits available. For the drawings, the ones with the book describedabove are top.youcould also check the internet. There are some nice drawings available on a university site, for which I always forget the name. Something with naut arch and tamu(?), I'llcheck. Those give the reconstruction of a ship as described by a famous Dutch writer of the period (nicolaes Witsen.) Again, some more info onthe ship would be usefull.... Jan
  4. Have you ever seen the size of the flags hoisted on that pole? You sure needed a long an dheavy pole Jan
  5. Another city? Away from the Maas?? How are you going to survive??? Although, I see an advantage: Aggies maidentrip will be on the Rottemeren, just around the corner Jan
  6. Yes, I do. But he used staples, as he had to remove them after the glue dried. (As far as i remember) Jan
  7. Never seen nor heard anyone using these things. Most people want their planking without nails, And to my experience, the nailing isn't by far the most timeconsuming part of planking, so.... Jan
  8. Hi Piet, With respect to the colour, I agree with Hans. You may check Peter's (Olympic1911) log on the Hohenzollernmodell. Somewhere (canb't find the page) he shos his greyish/green paint for the upper hull. You might also consider redoing the red: check Hans's log of Batavia for a nice shade, or my pic of Batavia) With respect to the railing: did you think of (or even try) round banisters (like Padsmos/Blijdorp)? http://www.maritiemdigitaal.nl/index.cfm?event=search.getdetail&id=100085748 Jan
  9. Frohlich also shows it in his book 'the art of modelling'. He makes one side remark (which you already know, of course): the method will not do for models with a tumblehome (i.e. don't have their widest point at the top of the frames, but on deck-, or waterlinelevel.) Jan
  10. It's a shame how some people treat a nice model..... I can imagine your feeling. Good luck with the repairs. Will the model go to the same place afterwards, or are you going to look for a proper home for her? Jan
  11. Or (but you can only do that when the backside is out of sight, or should be painted), use woodglue to stick a piece of paper to the backside, instead of the masking tape. One other that worked fo me (but I did - nicely aligned and square - windows in a tugboat) is to use a very thin drill to mark the endpoints of the cut, and place a second cut on the backside of the wood. And try using a small as possible knife. I like the swan morton no 11 blade. Designed a a surgical knife, sharp enough to separate your fingertips from where they belong, but also very, very thin at the tip. Jan
  12. A small electric drill (proxxon/dremel/minicraft) will be very helpfull. Don't ask which one, because everyone is sure his is the best. A couple of good knives (I like the swann morton very much) Perhaps a soldering iron (or, as some will explain, a soldering torch is better) Can't help you beyond that, becuase I don't have more experience than that myself Jan
  13. Looks great. Is there somewhere a shop that sells these clamps, or are they self-made? (these probably are, I should refrase: or have these to be self-made) Jan
  14. May I give you a suggestion? The shrouds ( the lines form deadeye to masttop) are normally way thicker than the lanyards (the rope between the deadeyes). I guess it woudl contribute to the looks of your model if you used thicker rope for the shrouds. Jan
  15. Steingraeber is a German firm. It used to issue a couple of own kits until the early seventies I think. They still exist, but only as a shop selling kits from other manifacturers (and they sell shipmodels, of rather questionable quality....) Jan
  16. Did uou know this one? It is in German, but the drawings are not drawing of the frames (spant 116, letter d) suggest hinges on the upper side. http://dingler.culture.hu-berlin.de/article/pj315/ar315001 in the same issue of this journal are more articles on this ship (mainly engine stuff, check on the first link on the page: band 315, it brings you at the table of contents of the issue) Jan
  17. With respect to the bunker doors: lookoing at the puc of the Dutch liner (ss rotterda, early twenties), you can see that the doorst hinged sideways, with no visible hinges on the outside. The hinge was inside, and on the outside there are one or two large nuts to secure th e door a(to the extreme left of the pic you can see a closed door, and left of the coalloadi g people you can see the inside of an open door. titanic had the same construcion (as ifound out in the internet), no idea wheter or not the German liners were of the same build. Jan
  18. This should work. There is a german company that sells kits that are based on this principle. Although their kits are not without problems, the method as such does work. google for 'GK Modellbau" and 'Duke William" (don't buy: the model does not conform the historical drawings, but you'll see the method) Jan
  19. Hi Piet, With respect to the hinges, should we read it as a question or as an announcement? In both cases we all know the outcome Jan
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