amateur
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The loops are formed by taking the shroud around the mast top, and seizing both ends together. The loop in the last shroud is made by seizin (or splicing) the end of one shroud somewehere neear the end of the ther one ( and vice versa). i'll go and lookfor an illustration Jan
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The shrouds go down onthe same side as they go up: both ends of the pair are onthe same side. The foremost pair goes on first (always forget whetehr that is onthe postside or not...), the last one (if it is an uneven number of srhouds per side) has an splice it it, so that there is an eye that can be put ocer the mast top. Jan
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Btw the stuff is called fimo Jan
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Never mind... Try something stronger next time Jan
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I needed 1.5 mm, and did not succeed in finding a shop selling beads that small. I used a clay used for beadmaking (soft clay that hardens after baking it in an oven). i drillen holes of the desired measure in a wooden strip, smeared the clay in the holes, used a piece of thin copper wire to make a hole in the bead, baked it. (While still in the wooden strip) after baking, i used the blunt end of the drill to pish them out of the strip, did some founding of the corners using a bit of sandpaper. It worked reasonably well, although Idon'tthink you can get much smaller than 1.5 mmusing this methodl. I have also seen peaple using magic sculpt or something likethat to make small parrels. Jan
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On the occre website, it is presented as a plank on frame construction. http://www.occre.com/modelismo-naval/ulises-rc-pack-1.html Jan
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Hi Remco, Although you didn't cover the use of the LOS, I have a question: where do you get the stuff? I did try to find it, but succeeded in finding european providers selling it in huge (and I mean huge) quantities, or US-providers charing quite "interesting" postage-costs. Probably, I looked in the wrong direction.... Jan
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- sloop
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And the delftware in the cupboard?
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I know Ed is a big boy, but even big boys are better safe than sorry... Jan
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It seems you haverope with a lot of stretch ini it... What also helpd is setti g the lower deadeye in the correct position, and fix it, and secondly, setting the upper deadeye on a shorther distance from the lower. In terms of proportion: the distance between the two should be two or two-and-a-half times the diameter of the deadeye. Sometimee (as is shown inthe last figure above) even shorter. The shorter the distance, the less roomthere is for twisting. Jan
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I think you don't need the multipluing part: it is the tension it the shroud that makes it twist, not whether or not you fit the lanyard partially or completely. Jan
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That's strange, the book is not readily available in the Netherlands (there is no Dutch edition). In stead, it is sold by seawatchbooks in the USA, and they still advertise on their website that is is sold WITH the plan-set. No idea what the bookstore in Amsterdam sold you.(and at what price...) Jan
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What kind of rope do you have. Twisting is often a result of rope that has some stretch in it. The less 'elasticity' there is inthe rope, the less twisti g there is. Jan
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Hi Piet, Yes , you sure are going to get some priegelwerk. I like it, but it is not a job that you can do fice minutes a day. You need some serious time. And that's where other life interferee.... But i'll get there, eventually.... Jan
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Long time ago, I did sometimes post an updat ehere. Let's continue that tradition. I did some work on the Mizzen: The mizzen-yard has a halyard(?) using a tripple block. The parrel has to come around the strop of the lower block, to get the whole thing slightly closer to the mast. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b6oUhGBUNvA/VkNafExV2uI/AAAAAAAABys/gP0vdGbftWQ/s800-Ic42/IMG_1057.JPG[/img] The parrel is slightly too short, I have to put another bead on the rope. Next it has to go round the mast, the ropes through the deadeye, and a violin-block attached to it. (fun to do: the block can only be fitter after the parrel is installed (wish my eyes were better, and my fingers less thick:) ) The bowlines were a bit opf a problem. Andersson shows tham attached to the last aftmost shroud. (as most of the contemporaneous models do) However, the distance between the mizzen and the shrouds is relatievely large, so fitting them to the shrouds was visually not so pleasing. Therefore I followed Ketting, in attaching them to a block attached to the railing, just in front of the half-deck. Last puzzle: getting all ropes on a fair amount of tension, results in the mizzen going up and aft, while it should go (by sheer laws of gravity: down and foreward). (not too much, otherwise it touches the great capstan, and that should be left free) To be continued .....(sometime in the distant future :mrgreen:) (pics are a bit fuzzy, because macro and flash don't go together too well) Jan
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- corel
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Thanks. 15% is reasonable. Jan
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Hi Ed, How did uou do ,the treenailing of the deck? Is that real treenailing,or is it some kind of clever faking? Jan
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Sometimes it is available on marelibri.com Jan
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Hope you mind your fingers and eyes using this setup.... Jan
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Don't know whether someone still reads this (or knows the answer).... Does the timber list refer to a 1:48 version of the cross section? (and has anyone any idea on the extent of overestimation?) Jan
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Try Billings "HMS Warrior". You need a new home after that (57.9") Jan
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Daniel will need another rebuild Jan
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It's not that strange. These ships were build by the thousands, so none of them had any fame orname for itself. Also, the builders worked 'by the eye'. So no drawings exist. The model crackers showed is based ona reconstruction by Hoving (indeed, the same), and is based on a few rukes of thumb, and a written description of the ship stating lenght, width, and number of decks. Next to taht, as theseships were just objects tobe used, and easily discarded when their economic life was over, thereare virtually no contemporary models. Take all thattogether, and you seewhy kitmakers do not go into dutchshipbuilding: no examples to copy, no famous ships. The only two execptions are the twoships i mentioned abobe: both have an example that could be copied. A third model that was loosely based on a dutch ship (albeit with grave errors) was the Friesland by Mamoli. Firm doesn't exist, but that modelwas based on an model that was destroyed inthe war: a dutch warship of around 1670. The history that Mamoli gives of the ship is utter nonsense, but apparently ships without history (especially the latrger ones) do not sell. While writing, I realize that there is a third alternative. One of the forummembers (Hans) has made a kit of Batavia. Slightly tooearly for you, but a nice alternative to Prins Willem. (Can't comment on the quality of the kit, as I have never seen it real life) Jan
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Crackers was quicker Btw Derflinger is a very, very bad reconstruction of a Dutch fluit.... Al,ost correct with respect tothesite: http://nautarch.tamu.edu The exact link that takes you to the drawings: http://nautarch.tamu.edu/shiplab/AbHoving.htm Jan
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