Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order.
×
amateur
-
Posts
3,456 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by amateur
-
I have read very mixed reports on those pins. I used very simple push-pins for the job (the ones with a plastic head). Did quite well.... Jan
- 652 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- royal william
- euromodel
- (and 1 more)
-
Sovereign of the Seas kit (was there ever more than one)
amateur replied to mtdoramike's topic in Wood ship model kits
Sorry, not old enough to answer your question..... Jan -
Hello Kees, Can you give some details on that tool you have attached to your table. It looks like a very usefull one for making windows. Did you buy t, or is it completely selfmaed? Jan
- 434 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- pelikaan
- beamtrawler
- (and 2 more)
-
You're ageing very fast Crackers! (two days ago you looked quite young, although a bit tired) Perhaps you should see your GP.... Jan
- 434 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- pelikaan
- beamtrawler
- (and 2 more)
-
Continental Frigate Hancock by wyz
amateur replied to wyz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Interesting restart! (I have a couple of unfinished ones as well, but I don't think they can be brought back into life.....) Jan -
Hi PIet, As alsways, different people different opinions. I woud say: paint, but not green.... You'll have to paint the caprails. With repsect to the gallion: the upper rail is often combination of black and red, the lower ons are just a background for the more colourfull carving work
-
Hi Gunter, I discovered in my own build (corel, prins willem scale 1:100) that dor the topgallants some cheating was necessary: the yards are not heavy enough to keep thme in their places without some help. For the main yards, everything just hangs fine by its own weight. @jparsley: next time you should consider making your mastwoolings from rope, or a strip of paper when the original had iron woolings. These brass rings donotlook completely right.. Jan
-
In stead of making theframes higer, you could also consider making the recesses inwhich thegratings rest slightly deeper. I think that willlookbetter. Jan
-
Copied this one somewhere from the net (without the expalantion to the numbers...) The jeers are the two ropes from the blocks nextto the parrels to the underside of the top. Jan
-
I remarked in a parallel thread on these gratings that heynare the wrong side up: the flat side is the inderside, the upper side is not flat. If I remember correctly, Chris used these gratings as he was trying to get something in scale thickness. The lower decks are completely fitted out, and the deckopenings are the only real see- through option. Therefore in his own pics, the gratings are next to the openings. However, scale thickness required something slightly under a milimeter. Too thin to have them in wood. (Atleast, mass produced in a kit) Jan
-
The Dutch also used catechu, imported from the east-indies (bark from Acacia-tree). Jan
-
I got a picture from Chris Watton's Photobucket, showing the painted gratings. They look OK, the only problem I see wioth those gratings is that they are the 'wrong side up', being not flat on the upper side, but ont the underside. Jan (PS in that same photobucket are quite a lot pictures of the building process of the beta-model.)
-
Absolute best are the instructions written by chuck passaro (syren, lonboat, mayflower). Jan
-
I just remembered: I also started (but still not finished) BB's Mary Jeanne. (still in a box somewhere) Although it is not a step by step instruction, BB at least has its parts numbered more or less in the order of assembly, has their parts properly labelled, has a partslist that seems to be rather to the point. Besides: the parts that could have some interpretation problems from the general drawings (whcih also - at least in my builds - showed a number of cross sections, exploded views and assembly schemes) are shown in the instruction booklet. All in all, their instructionqulaity was not what bothered me the most when doing their kits. Their wood qulaity is a bit shabby, but on the upside: that makes their kits relatively cheap. I am at the moment working on a Corel-kit (Prins Willem) the booklet in that kit, which is rather more expensive than a BB-kit, is not any better ('glue strips to the hull, until fully planked' ), nor is the fit of the precut parts any better than in the bb-kits. Actually, I really enjoyed the bb-kits Jan
-
I would say: It is rather like a standard Billings-tekst..... (I did a BB statenjacht, schouw and a tug, they were pretty much of the same quality) Jan
-
Iguess that the boats would have been rather flat bottomed, and rounded (both fore and aft). The billings version is just their basic boat. My 20th century seagoing tug has the same ones......) There used to be a build log of chuck passaro of the mayflower. That one has a very nice looking boat. I guess that you could use that shap also for the santa maria's boat. With respect to the AaotS of the Santa Maria, I have the impressionthat all details that are not known were fillid in using English sources. Jan
-
Slowly, very, very slowly.... Murphy is not far away, knots getting loose, sometimes finding out that things were not quite right (the lanyards of the mizzen stay getting stuck behind the parrel of the main yard ....grrrr....) The forestay is a problem: so many ropes attached to it, that it wants to go forward, even while the individuel ropes are not tensioned. I don't get it better than it is now.... The mizzen yard And its parrel, quite fiddly stuff..... Jan
- 139 replies
-
- 7
-
-
- corel
- prins willem
- (and 1 more)
-
Dying before or after sewing: (whichever way of dying), when you dye AFTER sewing: make sure your sewing yarns take the colour in the same way as the fabric does. when you dye BEFORE sewing: make sure your dye does not disappear by handling your sails during the process. (yes: I learned the hard way ) Jan
-
Fittings/Accessories to Billing Boats Meta af Byxelkrok
amateur replied to samaka's topic in Wood ship model kits
You prbably would not have an original fittingskit: billigs fittings are plastic, and sometimes that plastic becomes brittle over time (especiallynthe eyelets on the blocks.) But a partslist so that you know what to get would be nice, I agree. Jan -
Fittings/Accessories to Billing Boats Meta af Byxelkrok
amateur replied to samaka's topic in Wood ship model kits
That one is out of production since ages..... Is there a partslist in your build-instruction that tells what is in the fittings-set? Jan -
No, the odd ones are connected in a different way: you can see it (once you know ) in the pic above: the normal pais are seized as a pair, on one side of the mast. The singles are seized to each other "ON THE OTHER SIDE of the mast. The burton pendants (especially when they are single (larger ships had a pair)) are also seized to the one on the other side of the mast. When you have both one burton as well as a single shrould, you could combine them as a regular pair of shrouds, whcih minimizes your amount of splices and seizings) Jan
-
The loops are formed by taking the shroud around the mast top, and seizing both ends together. The loop in the last shroud is made by seizin (or splicing) the end of one shroud somewehere neear the end of the ther one ( and vice versa). i'll go and lookfor an illustration Jan
-
The shrouds go down onthe same side as they go up: both ends of the pair are onthe same side. The foremost pair goes on first (always forget whetehr that is onthe postside or not...), the last one (if it is an uneven number of srhouds per side) has an splice it it, so that there is an eye that can be put ocer the mast top. Jan
Our Emblem ®
