amateur
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I got a picture from Chris Watton's Photobucket, showing the painted gratings. They look OK, the only problem I see wioth those gratings is that they are the 'wrong side up', being not flat on the upper side, but ont the underside. Jan (PS in that same photobucket are quite a lot pictures of the building process of the beta-model.)
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Absolute best are the instructions written by chuck passaro (syren, lonboat, mayflower). Jan
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I just remembered: I also started (but still not finished) BB's Mary Jeanne. (still in a box somewhere) Although it is not a step by step instruction, BB at least has its parts numbered more or less in the order of assembly, has their parts properly labelled, has a partslist that seems to be rather to the point. Besides: the parts that could have some interpretation problems from the general drawings (whcih also - at least in my builds - showed a number of cross sections, exploded views and assembly schemes) are shown in the instruction booklet. All in all, their instructionqulaity was not what bothered me the most when doing their kits. Their wood qulaity is a bit shabby, but on the upside: that makes their kits relatively cheap. I am at the moment working on a Corel-kit (Prins Willem) the booklet in that kit, which is rather more expensive than a BB-kit, is not any better ('glue strips to the hull, until fully planked' ), nor is the fit of the precut parts any better than in the bb-kits. Actually, I really enjoyed the bb-kits Jan
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I would say: It is rather like a standard Billings-tekst..... (I did a BB statenjacht, schouw and a tug, they were pretty much of the same quality) Jan
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Iguess that the boats would have been rather flat bottomed, and rounded (both fore and aft). The billings version is just their basic boat. My 20th century seagoing tug has the same ones......) There used to be a build log of chuck passaro of the mayflower. That one has a very nice looking boat. I guess that you could use that shap also for the santa maria's boat. With respect to the AaotS of the Santa Maria, I have the impressionthat all details that are not known were fillid in using English sources. Jan
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Slowly, very, very slowly.... Murphy is not far away, knots getting loose, sometimes finding out that things were not quite right (the lanyards of the mizzen stay getting stuck behind the parrel of the main yard ....grrrr....) The forestay is a problem: so many ropes attached to it, that it wants to go forward, even while the individuel ropes are not tensioned. I don't get it better than it is now.... The mizzen yard And its parrel, quite fiddly stuff..... Jan
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Dying before or after sewing: (whichever way of dying), when you dye AFTER sewing: make sure your sewing yarns take the colour in the same way as the fabric does. when you dye BEFORE sewing: make sure your dye does not disappear by handling your sails during the process. (yes: I learned the hard way ) Jan
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Fittings/Accessories to Billing Boats Meta af Byxelkrok
amateur replied to samaka's topic in Wood ship model kits
You prbably would not have an original fittingskit: billigs fittings are plastic, and sometimes that plastic becomes brittle over time (especiallynthe eyelets on the blocks.) But a partslist so that you know what to get would be nice, I agree. Jan -
Fittings/Accessories to Billing Boats Meta af Byxelkrok
amateur replied to samaka's topic in Wood ship model kits
That one is out of production since ages..... Is there a partslist in your build-instruction that tells what is in the fittings-set? Jan -
No, the odd ones are connected in a different way: you can see it (once you know ) in the pic above: the normal pais are seized as a pair, on one side of the mast. The singles are seized to each other "ON THE OTHER SIDE of the mast. The burton pendants (especially when they are single (larger ships had a pair)) are also seized to the one on the other side of the mast. When you have both one burton as well as a single shrould, you could combine them as a regular pair of shrouds, whcih minimizes your amount of splices and seizings) Jan
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The loops are formed by taking the shroud around the mast top, and seizing both ends together. The loop in the last shroud is made by seizin (or splicing) the end of one shroud somewehere neear the end of the ther one ( and vice versa). i'll go and lookfor an illustration Jan
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The shrouds go down onthe same side as they go up: both ends of the pair are onthe same side. The foremost pair goes on first (always forget whetehr that is onthe postside or not...), the last one (if it is an uneven number of srhouds per side) has an splice it it, so that there is an eye that can be put ocer the mast top. Jan
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Btw the stuff is called fimo Jan
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Never mind... Try something stronger next time Jan
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I needed 1.5 mm, and did not succeed in finding a shop selling beads that small. I used a clay used for beadmaking (soft clay that hardens after baking it in an oven). i drillen holes of the desired measure in a wooden strip, smeared the clay in the holes, used a piece of thin copper wire to make a hole in the bead, baked it. (While still in the wooden strip) after baking, i used the blunt end of the drill to pish them out of the strip, did some founding of the corners using a bit of sandpaper. It worked reasonably well, although Idon'tthink you can get much smaller than 1.5 mmusing this methodl. I have also seen peaple using magic sculpt or something likethat to make small parrels. Jan
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On the occre website, it is presented as a plank on frame construction. http://www.occre.com/modelismo-naval/ulises-rc-pack-1.html Jan
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Hi Remco, Although you didn't cover the use of the LOS, I have a question: where do you get the stuff? I did try to find it, but succeeded in finding european providers selling it in huge (and I mean huge) quantities, or US-providers charing quite "interesting" postage-costs. Probably, I looked in the wrong direction.... Jan
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And the delftware in the cupboard?
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I know Ed is a big boy, but even big boys are better safe than sorry... Jan
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It seems you haverope with a lot of stretch ini it... What also helpd is setti g the lower deadeye in the correct position, and fix it, and secondly, setting the upper deadeye on a shorther distance from the lower. In terms of proportion: the distance between the two should be two or two-and-a-half times the diameter of the deadeye. Sometimee (as is shown inthe last figure above) even shorter. The shorter the distance, the less roomthere is for twisting. Jan
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I think you don't need the multipluing part: it is the tension it the shroud that makes it twist, not whether or not you fit the lanyard partially or completely. Jan
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That's strange, the book is not readily available in the Netherlands (there is no Dutch edition). In stead, it is sold by seawatchbooks in the USA, and they still advertise on their website that is is sold WITH the plan-set. No idea what the bookstore in Amsterdam sold you.(and at what price...) Jan
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What kind of rope do you have. Twisting is often a result of rope that has some stretch in it. The less 'elasticity' there is inthe rope, the less twisti g there is. Jan
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Hi Piet, Yes , you sure are going to get some priegelwerk. I like it, but it is not a job that you can do fice minutes a day. You need some serious time. And that's where other life interferee.... But i'll get there, eventually.... Jan
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