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amateur

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Everything posted by amateur

  1. Nice work andy! When (if ever...) will you continue your laker? Jan
  2. Just a question: the buildlog of this wonderfull barge iss here on MSW. Is the book offering additional info that was not in the log already? Jan
  3. My 'carpet monster' even lives under (between?) the bathroom-floor tiles Jan
  4. They paintjob may be your largest chalenge. Those old type of paints do no longer exist, I'm pretty sure that the colours went a bit 'off' over the last decades, so you have to match colour, 'structure' as well as 'age' in the paintjob. (and prepping the surface of the new wood, without damaging the old paintwork micht be tricky as well. But just a plain repaint of the whole ship is a severe sin from a restorers point of view. I'll follow with interest. Jan
  5. Hello Druxey, They all come from various model-building fora. The two from William Rex have been posted in a Dutch forum, the one one the HZ-modell has beenposted by Peter (OLympic1911), but not in the thread here, but in the German version (at segellschiffsmodellbau.com) Quite a number of pics of a large Dutch model (owned by the museum in Gent, not on display) are in the warshipvasa.freeforums.com. But due to copyright-issues, I'm not a librty to repost them here.... Jan
  6. Hi Spyglass, in the Dutch version the socalled 'knecht' refers to all upright pieces used for belaying lines and ropes. They can (but do not always) have sheaves in them. The main ones have sheaves, and are used for hoisting topmasts and yards. Those were the ones that were pimped with a head on top, in stead of a more basic head, as shown in the log of YankeeD. There were also smaller knechten, attached to the inboard railing as belaying points.Some had, and some had no sheaves. Three pics: the forward and main knight in the William Rex modell Amsterdam), and a knight attached to the railing of the forecastoledeck of the (no longer existing) Hohenzollernmodell (Dutch warship 1660) Jan
  7. Too bad on the front side... I was wondering: wat is the reason that it is bend outward: is it the due to the sides forced inwards as result of the fall? Jan
  8. There is a nice book by Peter Kirsch (the galleon). Problem is: that book will almost convince you that the reconstruction of Rolf Hoeckel that was the basis for the Amati-kit isn't quite in line with modern knowledge on the ship-type..... Jan
  9. Not that I know of. Those Dutch caps are a bit tricky, as the aren't flat on the topside. Most kits make them too narrow, they were quite wide. I'll check whether I can find some pics.... Found a pic on a Dutch forum, showing the cap on the main mast. About three times as wide as the topmasts thickness. tow groves for thet top-rope, and the front part attached wioth two bolts. This designs holds for almost all caps, although those on the topmasts and the flagpoles also may have an irons band to hold the mast in place, in stead of the wooden piece shown here. Startting from a square piece with the right height and thickness, rounding of the top-side may be the best (only?) option wou have making them. Jan
  10. Looking good. Any respons on number nine? Jan
  11. 'cap' or 'mast cap' Jan
  12. Hi Chris, Although Edt's anchors are great, Dutch anchors did look a bit different. No iron bands on the wooden parts being a very distinctive one Jan
  13. How does one's buildlog disappear: not building.... Actually I did some rope-work thes summer (not too much, there was also a garden to attend) (btw: still missing picassa..... and needing glasses ) Jan
  14. I don' t know which dremel you have, but the smaller sizes: .3-.9 mm tend to break quite easily, especially when used by hand in a powerfull drill. Especcially the smaller sizes should be bought in multiples (unless you can cope with the frustration of not being able to continue as you last drillbit in the correct size snapped)) Jan
  15. mmm....disappointing.... we expected destruction in proper Dafi-style But the new netting is definitely better than the old one. What material is it? Jan
  16. At first, ithought it was the old billings (dating back to the late sixties/early seveties. The kits was designed before or during thesalvation of the wreck, almost completely missing the true design of vasa. Some googling around, i found out that it is a kit for chzeckoslovakia, also dating from that periode. I would say thta it is perhaps fun to see whether ornot a ship van be constructed from thiese parts, but it has nothing to dowith wasa whatsoever. (And i very much doubt whether the decals and the plastic parts can stillbe used after 50-odd years in a dusty attic.) Jan
  17. Are you following Ketting wirh a fore-deck, or do you take the model as it is, without a forecastle-deck? That deck in the reconstruction is quite a debate, most scholars taking the view that it should not be there. Jan
  18. Hi Juzek, Which drawings do you use? Ketting or Corel? Jan
  19. That's a nice twist Do you have a picture of her in that rig? Jan
  20. Can you explain? New research showing tha she had no masts? Jan
  21. And the more practical question: are you able to represent these lines in the scale you are working with? Sometimes less is more With respect to your question: I guess it depends on the situation. When a ship is sailing, everything is there. In port during (un)loading, the sails are not removed, therefore these lines are not. During winter-stops, I guess most lines are removed, as the weather does have a (negative) effect on the quality of the lines. So everything needed to have the yards in place will remain, everything else is removed. Sometimes you see a model with full rigging, but without sails. In that case the lines are prevented from running loose with the help of knots and toggles. I like the look of it (although: only when blocks and lines are in scale), but I never saw a picture of these clippers fully rigged, without sails. in your case, I would take Cutty sark as she is in dry-dock as your reference: Standing rigging lifts and braces in place, all other removed. Jan
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