kurtvd19

That's a good catch about the broom.  That is in keeping with the NRG's motto - Advancing Ship Modeling Through Research".

I have used C/A glue by Bob Smith Industries (BSI) for over 20 years with complete satisfaction.  Many places sell BSI glues under the stores name.  Same design of the label except for a silver label with the store's name on it across the top.  This is a very high quality glue and if properly stored will last a very long time.  Recap when done for the day and keep it away from excess humidity.  Dole out a few drops and recap using a C/A applicator until the drops dry up or run out.  I buy several bottles at a time and keep the sealed up glue in my shop freezer for a couple of years sometimes.  Open it and it works perfectly.

The only problem I have ever had have been because of forgetting to recap the bottle for an extended time or keeping an open bottle in close proximity to C/A accelerator for an extended time.  I try to keep the accelerator far away from the C/A being used - at least 2 feet.

I keep several types of the BSI C/A glues as they have very different by very repeatable and predictable setting times.  I mostly use the Super Thin and Gap Filling Medium glues in 1oz bottles. 

I also use the BSI Epoxy glues for all my epoxy needs.

I forgot to add a tip to working with C/A glue and other odors that has made my life much better since I found a small 6" fan that I have on a shelf at the back of the workbench and to my left that I turn on whenever working with glues or soldering.  I used to get bad headaches when I used C/A glues even with lots of space, good ventilation, ceiling fan and windows in good weather.  I aim the fan to blow the fumes away from my face and this has eliminated the headaches.

Kurt

I love Alaskan Yellow Cedar.  Chuck recommended it to me some time ago and I have been using it for my building.  At a scale of 1:12 it looks just like yellow pine on a canal boat model that was built with yellow pine and Oak.  I used Birch for the Oak as it passes very well for Oak at 1:12.  The woods both look just like the woods used on the boat.  I think you will like the Alaskan yellow cedar.

Congratulations Ryland.

Oh no! two more photos to be ripped off to sell crap blocks!

They are really nice Chuck.

Kurt

For real clean cuts sandwich the brass or other soft metal between thin sheets of plywood and run them through your Preac, Byrnes or other small saw.  I usually have a sandwich of Ply with a  metal inner sheet glued together so when I need to cut a thin strip I can do so w/o delay.  I used to use Duco Glue and dissolve the glue on the sandwich in Acetone but I now use Weldbond II or III and use Isopropyl Alcohol as the solvent.  No burrs or wavy edges at all.

Kurt

The size for use on a Preac is two-inch diameter.  You have a saw blade, check it for the arbor size.  I have an adapter for a larger arbor size that was purchased with the saw when new (early 90's NRG Conference) that enables use  of a blade with a larger arbor hole - look carefully at your to see if it is equipped with the adapter as it gives a better choice of blades.

Do a search here on MSW for a replacement supplier for Thurston Blades that were the original Preac blades.  Somebody has the same sizes required.  I will most likely never need to buy any as I have an adequate stock to last a long time.

Kurt

I have two Byrnes saws.  One is set up for ripping and the other for cross cutting.  For crosscuts I use a fine tooth slitting blade - about 120 teeth - 44-inch blade.

I also have a Preac saw - no longer made - I use a 2-inch slitting blade with medium teeth.

It depends on the job which of the saws I use, but for real thin woods I tend to use the Preac, but the Byrnes saw with the slitting blade also handles the thin stuff nicely.

I haven't used the NWSL Chopper in some time, but that's mostly because I have the power saws.  Before I had the saws it was used a lot.  If you keep a sharp blade installed it works fine for thin woods - up to 3/16-inch.  Thicker than that and it will cut on a bit of an angle and the thicker the material the more the angle.

If you plan to cut a lot of planks from sheet stock let me recommend the NRG's Thin Strip Saw Jig.  Using this jig makes it easy to cut identical thin strips once it is set.  Check it out at   https://thenrgstore.org/collections/guild-products/products/thin-strip-saw-jig   Full disclosure, I developed this jig for the Byrnes and Preac saws from observing several different jigs for use on full size table saws.  It can be used on any small table saw with 12-inch guide slots.

Take care,

Kurt

On 4/22/2025 at 1:17 PM, rtropp said:

after years, is starting to wear where the blade touches the black circular cutting stop.

Richard:

I have the original Chopper and don't use it as often as I used to but I fixed the wear issue like you described by mixing up some epoxy and filling in the wear the blade makes to the cutting surface.  I carefully filled the groove and then smoothed out the epoxy using a plastic credit card blank.  It has held up for several years and it is about due to be refurbished the next time I use epoxy for anything around the shop.  It still cut great the last time I used it and the fix is so easy so I will preemptively fill in the slight groove.

Take care,

Kurt

Best wishes for a speedy recovery from Mary and me.

Take care,

Kurt

Regarding the jogging.  If anybody sees me out jogging, PLEASE kill whatever is chasing me!

Ron:

These are now available on USB flash drives since most new computers don't come with CD drives any more.  Glad you learned enough from them to post about their availability.

Kurt

Bill:

That article is by Toni Levine a NRG Director.

Kurt

This was available from Syren Ship Models (sponsor here) - I didn't see it with a quick check, but ask Chuck about it.

Kurt

Please provide a website URL when asking about products  - didn't come up with a simple search.

Kurt

Keith:

That's exactly how I do it.  Took me a couple of tries before I figured out not to fight gravity and work from the top down.

Kurt

The Half Hull kit can be finished off as a complete model with the installation of the deck and masts - Use only a partial mast as in an Admiralty model if rigging is not something you have leared or don't wish to do.  However, if you do the Rigging Kit you will know what is needed for a full half hull model.  A lot of half hull models are not rigged.

Kurrt

Many chains have a clear coating that needs to be removed for decent blackening.  I soak the brass chain in warm Sparex (I use a small crock pot for this - it's not used in the kitchen, only in the shop!) to remove the coating.  A thorough rinse in water and after drying the chain can be blackened.  I dip it in and remove it letting the excess drain off over the container.  Two dips is usually adequate to blacken chain.  I will try the use of a a small, cheap paintbrush to "paint" the Brass Black onto the chain the next time I have to blacken chain to see how it compares to dipping it.  I use the paintbrush method for rods, ladders and other parts that are too large for my small containers I use for most blackening.

Kurt

You should look at the NRG's Planking Kit - https://thenrgstore.org/collections/plans-and-projects/products/half-hull-planking-project  -

It has a very complete tutorial guide on the proper way to plank a hull.  There are a bunch or build logs here on MSW along with the build log by Toni Levine who designed the kit.  This will aid you in planking future kits.

Kurt

The NRG collaborated on this publication that is printed by FineScale Modeler's parent company.  We provided the content, but they own the handbook.

We will contact them and tell them many would really like to see a pdf version.  If they say yes or no we will report back.

Kurt

The first shipment of 100 Ship Modeler’s Handbooks sold out in less than 8 hours.  There has been an unexpected demand for this issue, and we ordered more on March 11. 

The new order should arrive soon, so we have put them up for sale again.  Please remember that while they are on order, we do not have a definite delivery date.  When you place your order, we will process the sale, charging your card at that time.  An envelope will be prepared right away, and the issue will ship as soon as stock is received here. 

Price - $13.99   Member 20% discount applies.

We ordered 100 copies thinking this would be a good number if we sold them all - eventually.  We sure misjudged the appeal and have new order in for a bunch - promise to not be out of stock again - we will have a chance to see dwindling stock - 8 hours sure wasn't enough time!

The first shipment of 100 Ship Modeler’s Handbooks sold out in less than 8 hours.  There has been an unexpected demand for this issue, and we ordered more on March 11.

The new order should arrive soon, so we have put them up for sale again.  Please remember that while they are on order, we do not have a definite delivery date.  When you place your order, we will process the sale, charging your card at that time.  An envelope will be prepared right away, and the issue will ship as soon as stock is received here. 

Price - $13.99   NRG Member 20% discount applies.

If you don't know the discount code, contact our office.

Kurt

The NRG is proud to announce the publication of the Ship Modeler’s Handbook.  This limited-edition special issue, published by FineScale Modeler, is a collection of articles taken from our own Nautical Research Journal and Ships in Scale Magazine, as well as two original articles found exclusively in this Handbook.  The Handbook will appeal to both new modelers and old hands.  You will recognize most of the authors’ names, some of whom, sadly, are no longer with us. 

Available now in the NRG Store

Price - $13.99   Member 20% discount applies.

All funds stay with the NRG & MSW

With the currents in most rivers and the obstructions such as sand bars towing on the rope does not provide the control needed to thread one's way through the average river obstacle course.  With the boat behind and a solid link to the barge, the towboat can set up to push through the turn as a single unit rather than trying to get a towed barge through the same space.

Kurt