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Posts posted by Jolley Roger
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We have a product in South Africa called Waksol F, which amongst other things, are used by beekeepers to treat beehives.(It takes about 2 weeks to dry completely)
It contains mainly Bitumen and some beeswax, which is cool, cause it attracts bees!
Available in 1 litre bottles to 200 litre drums. Over here 1 litre cost less than 3 USD.
Maybe your local beekeeping supplier stock something similar?
Smeared some on a mini chisel this morning to see the effect.
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I just bought one of these to play around with(it's still in the post, so i'm waiting in anticipation!)
It was on special for USD200, so just couldn't resist it...
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/820277733/mini-cnc
I'm gonna see if I can cut some frames with it for an upcoming Triton cross section build.
- grsjax, CaptainSteve, pompey2 and 1 other
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49 minutes ago, wefalck said:
Which ones ? To the best of my knowledge the respective red and yellow pigments have been phased out a long time ago, at least in the EU. The paints may have retained 'Cadmium' in their name though. Nothing really to worry about - a day out in a city gives you more exposure to nasty things ...
Vallejo specifically, I know their latest range is cadmium free, but there might still be older stock around with cadmium in it.
Anyway, it is only good practise to wear a respirator when airbrushing.
- Canute, mtaylor, Ryland Craze and 2 others
- 5
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On 3/14/2017 at 10:13 AM, MESSIS said:
Am going to use the vallejo label, its water based
Just keep in mind that some acrylics contain Cadmium, so wear a mask.
- thibaultron, Canute and mtaylor
- 3
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Birchwood Casey also have a product available for blackening Aluminum
https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Metal-Finishing.aspx
- thibaultron, mtaylor and Canute
- 3
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If I remember correctly, you can also dip it into a mixture of ammonia and water, as ammonia reacts with aluminum.
Best to test on some scrap pieces first though.
- mtaylor, thibaultron and Canute
- 3
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Looking good so far Worldway, very similar to how mine looked after the first planking.
The wood strips for the second layer of planking should have been included(it were included in my kit), unless the newer versions of this kit expects you to paint it instead of planking it. It might be a cost saving measure on AL's side.
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Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini helped me on my way.
- mtaylor, trippwj, flying_dutchman2 and 1 other
- 4
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That's very cool Daniel!
I like all of them, but if I had to choose I would go with B, assuming a Statenjacht would have been well maintained being close to home.
For ships doing long distance cruising far from home, I would go for C.
- mtaylor, Canute and Daniel Dusek
- 3
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Hi Ken,
Yes, drilled by hand, I use a piece of masking tape to make sure it is in a straight line (sort of )
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Hi Keith,
Interesting build, wish I had the skills and tools to build a ship from scratch.
For interest sake, the correct spelling in Afrikaans would be 'Weerligstraal', we also make use of word 'Bliksem straal' as Piet mentioned above.
- Keith Simmons, Omega1234, mtaylor and 1 other
- 4
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Well, the painting is finally finished!
Definitely not my favorite part of the build, but I wanted it to look as good as possible, so I spent a lot of time on it.
I also decided to change the bulkhead from mahogany to cherry wood. I made the little window with lead wire and Microscale Kristal Klear
...and last, but not least, I am attempting my hand at treenailing the deck. I still need some fine tuning on the technique, but it looks alright for a first attempt. (i still need to finish the set on the right, just need to pull more bamboo through the drawplate!)
- BLACK VIKING, KenW, rschissler and 3 others
- 6
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- John Allen, Canute and mtaylor
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Please help! What to buy.
in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Posted
I like the pastes from Solder-It http://www.solder-it.com/shop/category.aspx?catid=6
Comes in a syringe type applicator and no flux required.