Seventynet

wales and stuff 1. Take your time with the “fancy” pieces that run from the bottom of the wales to the top of the transom. That’s really all I can say, just take your time. I didn’t and had to improvise. Pretty much concealable in the end. 2. My approach for building the counter worked well. Sorry no construction pictures. I laminated several 1/8th inch thick pieces of boxwood edge to edge. Overlaid this prepared structure (there is one for each side) with the pencil-traced outline of the frame using Scotch’s (3M™) matte tape, cut it out, carefully manicured it and glued it into the frame. This worked better IMHO than fitting each plank into the frame.

Greetings shipmates, I have decided, somewhat retrospectively, to show an abbreviated build log of Chuck’s Cutter Cheerful, which has been paused for the last few months while I work on other things. I hadn’t intended to document this build because there are already so many excellent logs here. My thinking was that I’m slightly beyond the “help me” stage but not yet at the “here’s how you should do it” stage for creating a build log - putting me in limbo land. So perhaps I can go forward with a “here’s how you shouldn’t do it” log. This will allow me to go back and examine the areas I can improve for the next Cheerful build, not to mention the possible benefit to others. But I am sorry I did not take a lot of photos. Instructions for this build. Chuck's instructions are the best I've encountered. Read them carefully, re-read them and you will be happy. Stage 1: Gun Ports & Planking 1. You simply cannot be too precise with the gun port frames. I was not. I will next time. When you are talking about a 1/64th inset from the planking it is important to get the line right. I used European boxwood for these, simply because I had a piece. Harder than Castello and pinker. Sorry,no pictures. 2. One must take the time to fair the bulkheads to perfection. While Chuck abundantly warns of this, and I had thought I’d done a decent job of it, there was one or two bulkheads near the stem on the port side that were slightly “high”. This resulted in me merrily sanding right through several planks. I replaced 4 or 5 of them (but could have done a better job of even that). 3. The planking is thin. Of course, it is adequate if you fair the bulkheads perfectly, otherwise… 4. The shape of the rabbet at the stem is important. If you want the planks to fit like a lock and key, take the time to shape it perfectly, it will pay off. It doesn’t take much figuring to know how to do that, just patience with a good file. 5. Bending Castello boxwood is a truly liberating experience. Easy peasy. The first time I’ve ever used it. Absolutely beautiful wood. 6. Learn how to read the plans properly. Forgetting that the plans represent a 3-dimensional model projected as 2-D will run you into trouble. Witness my first two planks below the wales at the stern on both sides. Too narrow. I had planked most of the hull before I woke up. So I left the whole thing as it was and somehow the rest of the planks forgave me and allowed me to end up approximately where I needed to be as I planked down the stern post. I can’t remember if I slipped an extra-wide plank in there to compensate. I think I did.

I certainly must defer to Chuck’s far broader and professional appraisal of AYC. Hereforth I sneak my picture in of my AYC decking of Chuck’s Cheerful. I hope the beautiful hue somehow shows through.

Hi Dave, I have worked with Alaskan Yellow Cedar quite a bit. It is a beautiful wood to work with, but soft. I built a bit of furniture with it decades ago and it always stuck with me how nice it was to work with. It planes like nothing else. It holds an edge well, sands nicely (although with coarser grits it will get furry) and takes stain fairly uniformly. It does not bend nearly as readily as boxwood but maybe I just haven’t figured out the best way to do it. It has a very distinctive smell that many like, others dislike (I’m one of the latter). Your observation that it is a bit harder than basswood is how I’d characterize it. For that reason one has to take care not to mar it using undue clamp pressure. I have decked two models with it and find it perfect for that application since I use my fingers to hold it in place while the glue dries. I love the colour and hue of this wood like no other. Regards, Ian

Hi Rob, This is looking really good! Ingenious flag locker. I am glad to see that you can squeeze some time into the Vic while working that job. Good on ya. I’ll email you to do the coffee thing. best, ian

Thanks for this Phil. I know I will benefit from this build log. Ian

What a pleasure to see this work Jason. Beautiful, crisp and clean work. ian

I’m just about to start on the Cheerful carronades and started the Queen Anne Barge yesterday. Keep your amazing work up!

Looking fantastic Ben!

That looks saweet Don! Ian

Looking very good Julian! Regards, Ian

I just finished deck planking my Cheerful with yellow cedar. I really like it. It is the best application for this wood in my opinion. regards, ian

Thanks! I look forward to your next posting.

Great job Jean-Paul. Your log will help me avoid the same mistakes once I open the box😀. You mentioned that you applied tung oil. I take it then that there are no worries about glue adhering to the frames after that? Or do you sand those areas first? ian

You are doing a wonderful job Don. Love the wood too. When do you fit the dragon's head? Ian

Beautiful job Boyd, you should be proud indeed! Ian

Beautiful job!!!

Hi B.E., Looking good. I don't know if you'd want to consider using your Amati stand for hull planking. I did and it made life simple. I glued and braced some strips to the false keel. A little work cutting them out when I'm through but the cost benefit is there for me. Ian

Nice clean organized start Jean-Paul. I’ll be following along with interest. Regards, Ian

I will follow along too. Always a learning experience with your work Rusty. Ian

Very clever to pre-bend the strakes between the gun ports BE. Wish I'd thought of that. Ian

Nice work Ben. Looking forward to many more pictures to help me when I get started on this beauty. Ian

Well done Michael!

Don if you can make that bend I want a full description of how you do it. Edge bending walnut that thick that much would be beyond me. Which of course is not saying much. A scarph joint might look pretty good?

Hi Mike, Nice build! If if you want plank lines at the bow like Gregory’s you will have to do a fair amount of spiling and will therefore need sheet stock of walnut. Spiling is easy once you come up with a method of transferring the curves to the wood. I have no problems planking, bending and spiling with walnut. In fact it was my favourite wood to work with until boxwood spoiled me. 🙂