Chuck

Hey Chuck,
 
Don't forget from MSW1.0 that I was among the first to express interest in building the Winnie along with Rusty, but I'd really like an autographed copy.
 
Ben

Can't wait to see the book!  It sounds like they could get quite a few pre-orders on the book.  I know I'd be one.

No negative on the book (which undoubtedly) will be great, as other seawatch-books are.
But I have to agree with Carl that the import- and transport fees to be paid on US-imported books are rather high.
And as to visit the US, the amount of paperwork needed for that is killing any fun of going.....
 
Jan

It was time to add some inboard details.  The floorboards were first.  These were pre-bent so they would lay against the bottom of the frames nicely.  Then the two platforms were added.  I glued some planks together edge-to-edge and then cut the proper shape using the plans as a guide.  I simulated the caulking between the planks with a pencil so they could be seen better.  The two platforms were notched along their sides to fit snug against the inboard planking and frames.  
 
The risers are the long timbers that stretch from bow to stern on the inboard sides of the hull.  The thwarts (seats) will rest on these risers.  It was important to make them the same height port and starboard so the seats werent noticeably crooked when I install them  I nice detail on the risers was the addition of scribed grooves.   This was shown on the NMM model so I included it.  They were made by running a sharp awl down the timber with a steel ruler as a guide.
 

 

 
 

Next up was to add the cap rail.  I like to press a wood sheet against the model and trace the shape of the open hull.  Then I add an extra 1/32"  to account for the overhang outboard.   Then i measure and draw another line inside of that one to create a pattern 1/8" wide or there-abouts.   I cut it out on my scroll saw and glue it on.  It looks awful at this stage.  But then I go back and file the edges so they are uniform outboard and inboard.  I tried to create a 3./32" wide cap rail or just a hair narrower than that.
 

 

 

 
Finally the friezes were added.   These were printed on my ink-jet after scanning my master.  It was sparayed with some hairspray as a fixative. Once the friezes were in position I used the bottom edge of the paper as a guide to add a strip of 1/32 x 1/32' molding.
 

 

 
 
Then it was time to paint.  The inside was carefully painted as shown in the last few photos above.  It was finally starting to look like a boat.  Although I like the natural painted planking on the exterior,  I thought I would try painting it tallow to match the NMM model.  I think it ads some interest so i decided to keep that look although many might prefer to leave planking natural.

The second is no different than the first.  I recommend lining off your hull as mentioned in several of the online articles here.  Then shaping and spiling your planks to suit.  That is truly the only way to do it properly.  I would also add that using only the kit supplied planks might be a problem as you may have to cut your shaped planks from wider sheets of wood.
 
Chuck

Thanks Guys,here some more pics....

The shipping cost and import duties in the Netherlands are killing. I pay twice the price I would have to pay in the US. It ain't fun no more after you've received the book(s)

Folks,
 
Since we do not have a repository for the Syren (Model Shipways) any more, I am posting the good news that Model expo started shipping and distributing the new castings of the Carronades for the kit Syren. I just received mine today and here is the new casting based on the original and revisited mold by Chuck Passaro:

 
On top is of course, the ugly "appendices" that were shipped with the kit. On the bottom, is the new and much cleaner Chuck Passaro casting.
 
Yves

Looks really good so far.  Glad to see another Syren being built.  
 
Chuck

Chuck will you please slow down. The admiral will not let me buy another kit designed by you until I finish the last one. And all you do is continue to design outstanding models!!!

Bollard and hawse timbers continued...

Capstan
 
The kit-provided capstan was made of plywood, and since I’m not using paint on any parts of the ship, it was time for a scratch-built replacement.  (I also wasn’t crazy about the shape of the kit capstan.  Plus, I really just want to scratch build the rest of this ship anyway!)

Unlike the companionway – which was improvised – there is a drawing of the capstan on the NMM plans which I could use.  I couldn’t however, resist taking a bit of “artistic license” with some aspects of the piece.                                                                                                                         
 
Kit-Provided Capstan vs. NMM Plans
 

 
 

 
 
The spindle was made from Swiss pear, and to fabricate it, I got some practice using the technique for making masts that should come in handy later:   I planed down some square stock to 8 sides, then 16 sides, and then sanded it round.              

The welps are made of cherry – shown here temporarily glued together side-to-side, for uniform shaping with a file.  (I would ultimately use only six of them, but I made a few extra just in case.  And yes, they came in handy!)
 

 
Next, slots for the chocks were cut, and the welps were tapered and glued around the spindle.  The chocks were then fabricated in cherry and added – which took about five times more effort and time than the rest of the capstan components combined!
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
To make the drumhead, I used a compass to draw circles on cherry sheet, and roughly cut out the discs using my new scroll saw for the first time (Very roughly!  I definitely need practice scrolling!)
 
I trimmed them a little closer with an Exacto knife, drilled a hole through the compass point in their centers, and screwed them into a Dremel mandrel.  Using a Dremel drill press and sand paper held against an angle iron, I sanded them round. (see the many “just in case” extra discs in the background!)
 
 

 
 

 
 
I cut out the slots for the capstan bars using a micro chisel blade – destroying several of those "extra" discs before getting it right -- and assembled the drumhead.
 

 
 

 

Check out the tutorial here in the database for silver soldering.
 
Chuck

Thank you very much...I just added this to the database.

Colored the shaft and the arms for the chamfers ...     ... drilled the hole for the ring and most was done.     Used my small template to cut the palms ...     ...glued in place, cut ...     ... cleaned up and done :-)
    And here the family shot with all the needed tools that were needed for conception.   All the best, Daniel

Finished the ladders on the deck using ready parts from stock. As the scale of these ladders are ok, with little modification and adjustment they fitted to their places.

Two reminders ... The two Completed ship model gallery categories are for photos of completed models only. That's why they are named as such.
 
Second ... you must include the name of your model in the title of your gallery folder! Think about this one, folks -- when people search for a model in the gallery, what search term are they most likely going to use? That's right -- they're going to search for the name of a ship!
 
BTW, you don't have to put your name in the gallery title, since your folder and each of its images is stamped with your username.
 
PLEASE do not post albums of your work in progress!  This gallery is meant to display the finished models and not become a second redundant build log.  It just wont work!!!  
 
Thanks in advance!   
 
If you have photos of your models in progress please post them in a build log or other appropriate forum category.
 
Chuck

OK, I don't know about you folks, but I'm all worn out on re-posting and looking at photos from the 18th Century.  So I finally got out of this chair in front of the PC and did some (minor) work.
 
Here's the latest.  The main topmast stays, backstays and preventer stays have been added.  Finally converting 'rope' into lines that actually GO somewhere is a blast!  I will be using Morope on everything with a diameter of .018" or larger, black for the standing rigging and beige for the running rigging.  I picked up on the idea from Frank (riverboat) and really like the beige.  The black, in my opinion, is not nearly as spectaclular.  It does handle well though, provided you remember to apply some thin CA before you cut it.  Otherwise it will unravel instantly.
 
Special note to Sjors------ No, I did not forget there are  shrouds and ratlines on the upper foremast.  All in good time, my friend
 

Main mast upper shrouds and ratlines.
 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Meredith
 
Great,  it's all in the set up.  I let the rope harden overnight.  Move the post closer to the head for larger ropes if you have to. 
 
The die size is also very important.  Should be only a few thousandths larger than your finished rope
 
Jim

Searching for inspiration, I came across some models for 18th century pinnaces. There were large 32 foot pinnaces and many smaller examples to look at. I was particularly fond of a model from the NMM in Greenwich. It was a model of a 21 foot long single banked pinnace from around 1750. It would make an excellent subject for this mini project. It has a paneled interior and some decorative merits. I found an original draft on the NMM website that was almost identical to this small 4 oared pinnace. Things were started to come together nicely.  
 
   
 
I wasn’t necessarily thrilled with the color scheme shown on this model (pictured above) so I continued looking for some decorative alternatives. The pinnace was used a means of transport for a ship’s captain or other officers. It was not intended to be used to perform any other task. Tasks such as transporting water and other stores were normally left for the larger and heavier built boats like the longboat or launch. It was basically an officer’s private transport. It was designed to be rowed although larger pinnaces could be sailed. It wasn’t very seaworthy and was designed for primarily shore duties. After all, the officers did need a stylish way to get from their anchored ship to the dockyard. As such, the decorations were usually added much later at the officer’s and captain’s own expense.  
 
   
 
So here is my journey in creating this scratch built model.   The frames are basswood and everything else will be Boxwood.  
 
   
 
You can download this full set of instructions below as a PDF.  This was the prototype for the new Model Shipways kit.  
 
   
 
Click Here to download this practicum  
 
   
 
Chuck  

Yet another Passaro masterpiece, thanks for posting her again Chuck, wonderful to see.
 
Ben

I will be posting the pictures of my completed scratch build of the Frigate Confederacy. This build was done using Chuck's plans and practicum that he developed for the Model Shipways kit.
 
 The woods used for this build are Boxwood, Holly, Swiss Pear, Ebony, Cherry, Bloodwood and some I'm sure I'm forgetting. I know all the comments and naratives are lost but if you have a question ask away and I'll try to remember!
 
This will take a while becuase there were over 300 pictures. Here we go.
 

This looks great. Thank you for going through the effort of reposting, your log is really a great resource for those of us who are also building a Syren.