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michael mott

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Everything posted by michael mott

  1. Again thanks for all the positive feedback and for the quiet visits. I set up the soldering area today and put all the broken ends back on the top handrail stanchions. I had a couple of minor issues but they will be solved fairly easily I think. to recap this is what happened to the top handrail, it was bent over and 6 of the stanchions were broken at mostly the bottom rail. I began adding the broken bottom parts of the handrail used the #4 tip All 6 soldered on with a couple of these to add to my work. Next task was to do a quick test fit so I am relatively happy with the effort. Now to clean it up and fix the meltdowns. Michael
  2. Beautiful work Gerald, I am as interested in your tooling as the model itself. Do you have more details of the tooling? Michael
  3. Keith that is a clever chuck, I will save that for another day. The bowsprit looks great sitting in that gorgeous foot. Michael
  4. John you certainly have done a great job on this boat so far, I will no doubt enjoy the next one as well. Michael
  5. Hi Russ a bit late to the show, A very interesting looking boat, I shall be following along. Looks like youe have made a good start already. Michael
  6. Hi Jeff Thanks for the article. Hi Jud I was talking to the jeweler about doing some very small silver soldering n the broken stanchions and talked about a small torch for my ox-acetylene set up and he said to use the oxy-propane because it was much cleaner, that there was no soot with the propane. when he lit the propane it was very clean burning and then he turned on the oxygen and gave me a demo of the little torch. I was impressed with the way he handled it. I still have my Acetylene torch and for some work I will still use it. I hope this answers your question adequately. Michael
  7. Thanks for the visits and positive comments. Wefalck the hoses are very flexible. The small magnet holds the torch very well but is easy to lift off. Michael
  8. Thanks for the info on the torches Ed and Druxey Here is a shot of the little stand for the torch, the base is 2 1/2 inch diameter x 5/8 thick steel round, the upright is 1/4 diam brass with a 5/8 lee valley magnet on the top attached with a 3/4" flat head 8x32 allen head cap screw I added a small right angled steel catch plate to the torch, salvaged from a baseplate from some defunct electronic equipment. The plate is pinched between the black handle and the head section and is the same as the plate that comes with the commercial stand. Now I have to finish up the soldering station.....one thing just seems to lead to another. Michael
  9. Just got back from a day in the city. Thanks for all the positive feed back and for all the visits. Nils I have a lot of different types of silver solder, soft, medium, hard, and now paste. I also have easyflow, regarding flux I have both liquid and paste. Ed the only reason for wanting to use the oxy-propane was to get heat fast to a very confined area, My Jeweler friend gave me a demonstration of how well this torch worked, I am curious about the propane one you are using now. My oxygen will last a long time it is a three foot bottle that is almost full. Bob My initial tests seem to be good I do need to understand the correct proportions yet. I will be doing more trials and will report them as they happen. Michael
  10. Great tip Ron thanks for that. John the only part that looks really serious to me is the great big oxygen bottle I think there will be enough oxygen in it to last another 30 years at the rate this little micro torch uses it. Michael
  11. Hi Druxey yes the new torch is oxy-propane, it came with five tips #2, #3, #4, #5, and #6. The jeweler gave me a demo on it yesterday and said to have the oxygen at 11 PSI, and to open the valve on the disposable bottle all the way. I already had the Oxygen bottle for my Oxy-Acetylene set up. Now I need to make a stand for the torch like this one Michael
  12. Thanks everyone for the encouragement and visits to the work. I set up the torch today it is fantastic, took a few tests to get used to how it works and to practice with some paste type silver solder which I have not used before. I chose the smallest of the damaged handrail sections to begin realizing that if I made a complete mess of it it would be the least onerous to replicate. I set it up in my original third hand( I need to get one of those new fangled ones) and was pleased that it actually did solder together, I used the # 5 tip in the micro torch After cleaning it up a bit I noted that it would either need to be plated again to get the same colour as the originals or I will have to find a way to paint and weather it to look like the originals, the painting option will have to be the first try because some of the other posts that need to be fixed are part of a longer section that would need to be plated as well and it would definitely look different. the right hand rail has been given a quick brush with some Humbrol airfame silver, so this will become the test bed now for matching the other posts. Once I am happy with the results I will solder the rest. Michael
  13. Julie I am not sure where the idea to use glass came from. At the time I was completely enraptured by a chap called James Krenov, I love the line in his book Called "A Cabinetmaker's Notebook" "My way of working is just a long series of personal discoveries. I can't give anyone secrets, something that I promise will work, because, finally, it depends upon one's skill and intuition, and other things. But I can give hints, the benefit of some experience in the things that have happened to me. I don't get kiln-dried wood because I think that kiln-dried wood has been killed. This is not a pun, but a fact. The process of saturating wood with steam and getting it all wet, cooking it, you might say, is a chemical process that changes and dulls the color of the wood, and the fibers are affected so that wood which has been kiln-dried feels different to me. It's got a different ring, a different texture; it isn't clear and fine. It's like a poorly developed photograph-one that was taken well but just didn't come out. Besides, kiln-dried wood is brittle." The bit about personal discoveries is so true, in any field of endevour we come across gems that are true for us, these things just happen at the right time, the key is realizing it. This working with wood gig is just such a fantastic journey, I use wood to heat my shop and as I split the wood every now and then a piece of birch (air dried) or spruce or pine just splits in such a way that I have to put it to one side to use for something other than warming my body, more for using it to warm my soul. Michael
  14. Vossiewulf, I only use the Veritas planes I have both the different low angle block planes and the Jack plane with said blades. Julie I know what you mean about the Koa and there are a few others that are also notorious for the same reason. On page 13 of this book there is a photograph of some tools by a young man called Michael Mott, two of the tools are hand planes the other one was a saw. I couldn't resist the third person reference. The planes were badly damaged by a collapse of a storage shed many years ago. This is the tool which I still enjoy using, it is a pull saw that I use to make dovetails. It is carved from "Birdseye" maple and was scraped with pieces of broken glass. (amazing all the soft curves that one can get by breaking an old 8x10 window pane) No sandpaper came anywhere near this tool or files just chisels and glass to create the finish. The blade was chopped out of an old handsaw and new teeth filed there is no set to the teeth. Michael
  15. I just went back and looked at your rigging for the dead eyes and the overall level of tidiness and size of all the various line and rope is very inspiring. Michael
  16. Catching up Mark, so nice to see the ship without the large building plate. you have done a super job so far and i look forward to the rest. Michael
  17. Harvey , yes you are correct, when I purchased this kit I had every intention of building it, so who knows I might just have to do it one of these days. Tomorrow I will show the contents. Michael
  18. Sorry Steve not even close. Michael
  19. Back in 1984 I visited Maine and purchased this kit while there. I was cleaning up the shop today and rediscovered this kit. I thought it would be interesting to see how well you folk know your kits. Who can identify it? I do know what kit it is. Michael
  20. Giampiero The work on the stern looks superb, The small boat start looks very good as well. Michael
  21. That's what I really enjoy about this site.... you learn something new every day. I love my old water stone and can sharpen a blade so that I can shave with it... but I am going to get a new water stone now, I shall try this out. What we do not know however is how well this works on Birdseye maple....easy enough to pull a shaving off some sugar pine or spruce. Michael
  22. Another perhaps limited way of making thimbles other than the rather complex method that I highlighted in my pilot cutter build This is using some of the wire guadians findings that some of the craft stores carry. (it took forever to find the correct terminology, because I discarded the package a year ago) This next picture shows the closed tube at the end of one side filed open The guardian was held in one of my assortment of clamps for my third hand for filing with a sanding stick. Next it was fitted with some rope (this was some polyester upholstery thread that i twisted a year or so ago) A quick and dirty result, no where near as prototypical as Chuck's work, but an alternative way of creating the thimbles. I hope this gives some ideas for all you great riggers out there. Michael
  23. Machined up a new arbor for a slitting saw to fit into my Clarkson milling collet slitting saw is .006" x 1.75" x .625" The bore is 5/8th I machined down some 3/4 drill rod to 1/2 inch diameter then cut the treads close to size then chased them with a couple of different 1/2 x 20 dies Polished it up and heat treated it to blue, I didn't have any short 1/4 20 bolts so machined one up out of some brass hex stock. Michael
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