dgbot
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Treenail detail option?
dgbot replied to S.Coleman's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
These are one time use only. When fully used you press down and the needle retracts into the syringe. The oldler model use a plastic tube around the needle. David B -
Treenail detail option?
dgbot replied to S.Coleman's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
For anyone who uses a syringe you can flatten out the needle. Then use this to make your trunnels. The hollow needle will leave a very fine circle and with the grain going in the same direction looks great. I am now on Lovenox injections daily. Once I learn how to deactivate the safety on the syringes I will flatten out the tips and give it a try. Be very careful if you do this though. David B -
Looking good Stunt Flyer. Is there a Bass Pro or a Fishing place near you. Go check out the fly tying equipment. You would be amazed at the amount of stuff that can be used for very fine rigging and the lines are nice too. David B
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The secret to working with balsa is not to use it if you do not have to. Otherwise use a sharp knife at all times. The minute it dulls out either sharpen or replace it. Use a wood hardener or a solution of white glue and water. This will raise the grain but if you are cutting or shaping you do not have to worry. I have found aspen works good as a substitute if you cannot get basswood. David B
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The hammocks were used to help protect from snipers. splinters and falling rigging. More men were killed from these than anything else. David B
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Isn't moving fun. When I made my last move years ago I lost almost all of my photos. Memorys and models that I built. David B
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After 3 copies were made. Like I said the sharper the better. The scalpel will be my primary knife from now on. David B
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The anchor assembly was next. Once more I cut out the part and folded over. This time I tried to make the glue was well spread out before I clamped it to dry. The first time I tried cutting out the anchor the card stock kept seperating and tearing no matter how sharp my knife was. That was when the scalpel blades arrived. What a big difference. Just a leather strap every now and then. I trimmed out the inside curve first. This provided the best way to cut out this part without tearing it. I then used two straight edges to hold the part steady. The anchor and the stock were then cut out Using a piece of string I tied everything together and attached the chain and anchor to the deck. All of the cut out parts were touched up with a marker. What a difference a real sharp edge makes. i would advice anyone who works in this material to use scalpel baldes if they can get them. They made this job much easier. David B
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The next part was the anchor bitts. The bitts were assembled and glued as before. Then they were glued to the deck. David B
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Your Virginia is looking great. As for the sails, the stuff in the kit is just to coarse and thick at this scale. If you have any bed linen or silk span these will work just fine. David B
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Next came the mooring cleats. After cutting and folding and gluing I let them set for awhile. The one thing I do not like about this card stock that doubling and gluing makes the part stronger but it like to seperate along the edges when cutting the part out unless the blade is super sharp. I ordered some scalpel blades off of Amazon and just cannot wait untill the get here. I used a straight edge like before to get the fold and after spreading out the glue I clamped and let it dry. Doing it this way helps to alevieate the seperating a little. After the glue dried I cut it out I had to redo it a couple of times before they were acceptable. I used a chisel to cut out the base. Then I glued everything together. They are not the greatest but the best I can do at the moment. This is the time when you need a super sharp blade. My xacto blade was sharpened after each cut and it would dull out quick. After attaching them they are not perfect but better. Note to self. The sharper the better. My brother in law asked me to use a double edged razor in a holder. It worked great but there was no control. David B
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Thanks Bob, they look better on photos than in real life. David B
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The next thing I did was prepare the bollards This was pretty straight forward the only diffrence was I added a bottom to make the joints more secure. David B
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When you get done Dan are you going to get a poker game started. in the main salon? David B
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For fine detail work I will use a Foredom. The Dremel has too much wobble. David B
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My advice would be to go through some of the Bounty logs. Even though they are not from the same MGR, they will be able to guide you easier than I can. David B
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Mike, what vessel are you building, if it was a kit it should come with an instruction book. Plus check out the forums for rigging. Your model may already be there. David B
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If you are going to have sails make sure your standing rigging is taken care of. Try do do all the Spars off the ship. Put your sails on the Spars with all of the blocks etc that you can. The there are several books out there on rigging. Also check out the build logs. This will help you out and make things easier for you. David B
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I have the same bender. What I do is put it in my vise. I put the planks in a tall tube of water. I take the plank out then quickly run it over the iron until I get the shape I want. Every now and then on compound curves I would wipe it down with a damp sponge and keep on bending to shape. On large parts I would use a male female mold. David B
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Congats on a quick do over. At least the error did not happen earlier in the build that would have been a nightmare to fix. This unfortunately is a common error that can only be caught by constant and mind numbing checking. At work when I had to make a template it was the same way. Kudos. David B
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The kit makes into a great model. My main complaint is that they very soft wood for almost everything but this can be swapped out easy enough and the instructions are easy to understand. Have fun and enjoy. David B
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