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dgbot

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by dgbot

  1. Same as above. But you must have nerves of steel. No nicks and everything neat and perfectly joined. David B
  2. One way of repairing is to add another piece. Cut of 1/4 of an inch off of each part making sure the cut is square. Using a #78 or 79 drill make a hole in the center of each. Make a dowel 1l2 an inch long just a litte wider than you need and drill that as well connect the parts together using a piece of wood that will fit the holes. Once the glue has set feather and paint. This is what I have done in the past. Your accident has happened to many of over the years. By having large hands some more than most. David B
  3. When doing the hatch combings I was able to make a substution from my tool box that made a big difference in look. The first part of the operation was cutting out the combing and forming it. After folding and trying to form the handles I was not happy with the resut. This would have been easier with a new scalpel blade. I found a piece of brass wire and use the pattern to make my handles. So far I am happy with the results. I tried using some CA but it did not work so a drop of white glue did the trick for attaching the handle to the body. I will finish the assembly when I get home. David B
  4. I finished off the pilot house with the guard around the periscope. When forming the part i used the shaft of a grinder that I had in my tool box. This made it easy to shape it without tearing. Once formed I gued it to the pilot house. When I get back to Raymond I think I wil order some scalpel blades. I am finding out the adage the sharper the better. I then touched everything up with a marker. David B
  5. I mess around with small bits all the time. When I bought my Foredom years ago I also invested in their drill fixture as we. Great investment, with the accuracy of a jewers drill and the foot speed control I rarey break a bit. As for Sherines sensidrill I know several modelers who love it for those small drills. David B
  6. Nice way to make use of different parts. Your planking and interior detail is nice. What kind of wood did you use? David B
  7. If you had an x y table you could use that. What I have done is make a fixture to hold the part and marked out the holes with an awl or a pin. This made a spot that would hold the drill bit. Then I could drill out the part without the bit skipping. David B
  8. You are doing a wonderful job. The nice thing about the Virginia is nice because you can do many things with it. David B
  9. Thanks for the info. I will keep an eye open here. It would be perfect for my sisters place. David B
  10. While in the hospital I used the table that they kept by the bed. What I found out was that the top could be extended to almost twice the depth. With the raised edges going around you would never have parts roll off. It is mobile and can be raised up so that it could fit over the bed or your lap if you are sitting in your lounge chair. If I knew where to get one at a good price that wood be nice for working in a small area for many of us. David B
  11. If the plans show the dimensions and shape of the bulkheads I would always double check each one to make sure they were okay. Any that were not were marked and then repaired off or on the model as needed. However I do not remember if MS came with the bulkhead plans. Otherwise I would do like you and go by sight and a batten. Good work. David B
  12. Boxwood has always been a good choice. A couple of others are holly, apple, pear, and degame. These are used by modelers I know who build at 1/192 or smaller. They all have a very tight grain and have the strength. David B
  13. Check out jewelry supply house. I use Sante Fe Jewelry Supply. There is also Connentti. David B
  14. Nils, have you tried tweezers used by jewels for working with pearls? I know some modelers who have them and they are the cats meow for holding blocks securely. David B
  15. Impressive work Omega. What kind of wood are you using? David B
  16. Check the scale for a opening for an Allen wrench. That is what I did on my Sherline. David B
  17. I notice you are pre-painting smart move as it gets harder down the road. David B
  18. Great metal work. You are doing a great job. I cannot wiat to see the finished model. David B
  19. Your coppering is coming along fine. David B
  20. On your skylight try some acitate for the windows. It can be tinted or shaded as needed. David B
  21. A unique model Bob. I found your build very interesting. Nice job. David B
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