Trussben
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Everything posted by Trussben
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I love your design process for those Lockers and rudder trunk, I have to remember that when I do those for Pegasus. -
Very nice touches Chuck.
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Looks awesome Chuck.
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Chapter 1 looks awesome Chuck - really looking forward to this model.
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As for your question According to "Steel" and the "Shipbuilders repository" table of scantlings, a 32gun frigate of the time would have had 11 1/2" wide framing, with a room and space of 27 3/4" So you would have a line of treenails in a row with a gap between them of just under 2.5" ( 11.5 + 11.5 + 2.375 + 2.375 = 27.75 ). On my cutaway section on my Winnie I simplified that to 11" frames with 3" gaps inbetween. Also if you look on the Plans - Chuck showed a section midships above the wales with a treenail pattern that you could just copy. Hope that helps - that would be a lot of treenails to make!
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Fantastic work Chuck.
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Shes a Beauty Chuck!
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Count me in for one of the Kits Chuck - $2300 total for a model like this with the quality that we know you will employ - a no brainer for me!
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She’s a big impressive Beastie there JJ! What are your calculated dimensions of the finished model going to be?
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If you build it, they will come.
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Congrats and good luck with moving her.
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Well I have to suspend work on Winchelsea for several months at least because We are packing up and moving from upstate NY to the Carolinas. My Winnie is in a perfect stage of construction to stop at as no beams or deck parts have been added yet that could get knocked about or broken, I can pack them separately and safely away in their own boxes and do a really good job packing the main hull. See you next from the south. Ben
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Yet another Fantastic model Rusty! Enjoy the vacation! just remember the rule “ steering wheel in the middle of the road” and you will be fine! ben
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Finishing up Chapter5 with the gunport lids and I thought I would share how I make these. 1. Scotch tape is placed over each of the gunports and then the outline of the port and the position of the plank seams is traced onto it with a pencil. 2. Pieces of the correct width wood to match the planking widths are edge glued together about 1” wide and then the Scotch tape is pulled off the hull and aligned to the wood seams. 3. I roughly sand down to the outline of the outside of the port, and then fine sand while checking the fit until I get a snug fit it the port it is intended for. 4. Add the backing piece to each and paint the insides red.
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