TomShipModel

Very precise and clean, as per usual.  Great workmanship.

Tom

Welcome Keith,

MSW is a great place to start in our hobby where you will find tips and techniques, and a good deal of support.  Great to have you here.

Tom

Al,

Excellent drawings as expected.

Well done Mike.  Absolutely beautiful and cleanly done.

Great description of your detailing work.  Very impressive.

Beautiful Ron!  The sea looks like a photograph.  Very realistic!

Amazing work Ron.  The step-by-step process is very well described and photographed.

Exceptional!  Beautifully done and a very good presentation.  The figure is very lifelike.  The weathering/distressing of the stove is excellent and not overdone.  Just beautiful.

Tom

The partially furled/brailed up main course will be a very good addition and will work wonderfully in your diorama.

You will enjoy just reading through these as many of the skills can be used on many different models.  I have not built a Swan Class but I've referenced these books extensively.  A great investment.

Doing any masking at all on this hull is quite a chore with the in and out plates plus the rivets.  I know that you need to burnish the tape but getting it to come down on those rivits is a tough thing.

Well done, Kevin!

Tom

Good deal Eric.  Good to see that it works for you.

Tom

Have you tried using mica.  I don't know where you might get it but it does look very good.  It flakes off the larger piece and can be cut with an exacto blade or scalpel.  The openings look too large for Krystal Klear.  Acetate would work as well.

Tom

Your assumption is correct.

Well done!  I've seen this model up close in person.  Out standing.

Good looking Mike.  How did you turn the spokes to get them all the same?

Masterful work and exceptionally clean.

I've seen the model up close, and it is outstanding!  Great job Ken.  Hope to see it again at Northeast Joint Clubs next month.

Well done Ken.  The finish line is in sight and she looks beautiful.

Congratulations Ryland!  Well deserved!   I have seen the model up close, in person.  It is a beautiful presentation.

Good evening,

This is from earlier in this post;

"The third photo shows the sail drying.  Once dry, the bolt rope and leach cringles need to be applied.  The cringles are where the rigging is attached to the sail.  The cringles are made by looping the bolt rope and putting a seizing to secure it.  The bolt rope is fixed to the edge of the sail with a product called "No Sew".  Basically, it is a glue.  The fourth photo shows the completed sail.  I didn't include the reef band or reef band because it would be completely hidden."

and from a latter reply:

"The bolt rope should be size 1 1/2" or 2".  The size of rope is circumference so divide 3.14 to get full size diameter.  On a prototype sail of the period, the head rope was a bit larger than the rest of the bolt rope.  For the model, you won't see the difference.   For the main sail, I went all around.  On square sails I usually leave off a short part of the rope on the sides to make furling easier as much of the rope is hidden anyway."  

I estimated that the bolt rope on a sail this size on a small boat would be about 1-1/2 inch size.   Size of a rope is the circumference of a rope.  So, the diameter of the rope full size is 1.5/3.14 = 0.477.  Since the longboat is 1:24 scale, the model rope diameter is .019".  Using 0.018 is close enough.  I glued the line to the edge of the sail with full strength white glue or fabric glue as noted.  The key is that when you re-wet the sail that you do not wet the edges that the rope is glued to.  The glue will soften and un-bond if it gets wet and, I have had some come loose if I wasn't careful.  In full size practice to bolt rope is sewn to the edge of the sail, but in 1;24 the line would be very small to be in scale so I didn't sew it on.   On smaller scales I leave the sail edges wider and wrap the silk span around the rope. 

I hope that this helps,

Tom

Mike,

Your workmanship is superb!  Vet clean and tight.  You can see great craftmanship when you blow up that photo to 2 or 3 times actual scale and not see any tooling marks, fuzziness, or imperfections.  Truly a beauty to behold..

By the way, first build or not, that is a beautiful model.  

Tom

Thank you Chris.  I may do a build log, but time will tell.