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Baker

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Everything posted by Baker

  1. Base color and decals. As you can see, the air intake was first painted black. This later gives a (false) idea of depth. Base color (olive drab) The search for decals Match boxes full of decals. I need a T (tank) number that starts with a 3. And a name and something else After a dry brushing with light grey, the decals are applied, letters and numbers come from different sources. (base plate is work in progress) Not a 100% match but fairly credible. To be continued.
  2. Thanks for the nice comments. And, from now on no blood and DNA traces on my models. Test (A piece of a glove) And cut a little nicer (Thank you for the good advice 👍)
  3. Got this idea from the Batavia and Duyfken replicas. These are 2 links to pictures on the internet https://www.modelships.de/Museums_and_replicas/Batavia/gPICT0554.jpg https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5684/30935046281_9dfecd3598_z.jpg How i build them starts in post 429
  4. Great idea. I put the admiral to work with her sewing machine 😉
  5. Installing the tracks and side skirts. Cutting the axes that are too long (And didn't cut my fingers this time ) The tracks are too short (longer chassis) They are now joined with staples (Cheating) Removing some track teeth So that they slide on the idler wheel ( again cheating) Tracks in place Cheating (3th time) with a tooth pick) The side skirts Turret and antennas glued Ready for painting Thanks for following
  6. Small update. Installing the mastfeet (mastfoot) I first had the idea to replace some of the bolts of the mast feet with eye bolts. But later decided not to do this, just bolts. The fore and bowsprit foot was a bit complicated, and i needed three parts for this. Mizzen mast Main mast, with pumps installed Fore mast and bowsprit (pumps are not glued here) Thanks for following
  7. I also wondered why the wale has this shape. The only reason i can think of : Is the position between the capstan (normally stands on the deck behind the main mast) Only if the deck follows the shape of the wale. Then the capstan can be used for lifting the anchor and the yards of the main and fore mast. In a very simple drawing explained
  8. Maybe this was an early form of seats of ease (seats of "not so" ease 😉)
  9. Yes and no. I don't know yet when I'll start on them. They can be left "on the shelf" for years to come Thanks for the offer
  10. They seem to be quite correct. Only the one on the right is upside down
  11. The wheels tracks and side skirts. Extending the kit's side skirts was not a good idea. So new are made. All parts are prepainted. Because the model has side skirts there will be little visible of the wheels, suspension, tracks etc. The return rollers are certainly hard to see. So I don't pay much attention to them. All "axes" have different lengths. Will be adjusted later after drying The sprocket need to be adjusted So that all wheels are in line. A few drops of CA glue. This significantly shortens the drying time. With these old stiff tracks you would otherwise have to wait days for all the glue between axles and wheels to harden. Ready for track mounting and clean up the axes. The tracks are of course too short because the hull has been extended ... ( No worries ) And, i invested in some mobile artillery. And some sheet and round strip Thanks for following
  12. Only one original mast top from the 16th century exists, and that's that of the Mary Rose. (Replicas of 16th century ships are not really reliable for information) I solved the problem like this (post 546).
  13. My first idea was also a Panzerbuchse. And it took me a while to figure out what it actually was.
  14. Kettenkrad and 10.5 cm Leichtgeschütz 40 (probably Russia, summer 1942 ) Couldn't resist, sorry 😇
  15. Congrats with your Panther One tank built, many others left to build also?😉
  16. beautiful models.
  17. kit parts replaced by own work That is the modeling microbe That strikes you 😉
  18. Well done for your first wooden ship. Congrats.
  19. I do more WWII modeling then modern . so, no idea if they are correct 😳
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