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Srodbro

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Everything posted by Srodbro

  1. Just a suggestion: I found the jig in this build log listed below very useful. Even using the jig, with the keel and frames quite plumb and square, aligning some of the planks from one frame to another was a challenge. Nice color choice. Gokstad Viking Ship by jack.aubrey - Dusek Ship Kits - 1:35 Scale
  2. I love that kit! So glad to see a couple people are building it. It has been around awhile, and the thing I like about it is, since Dapper Tom was not a real ship, a modeler can do whatever he wants to the details, and nobody can say it’s wrong! I got mine as a partial complete build on eBay ( the hull had been sanded) and loved building her ( I re-christened her Quoddy Bay, after the bay we have a house on in Maine, to commemorate the privateers/ pirates who sailed there) I like that kit so much , I got another partial build on eBay, and one more on sale from Modelexpo). The first kit I got was about thirty years old, and the instructions were on one page. Required a lot of interpretation. Here she is, just before completion. Will be following your log with great interest. Have fun.
  3. Just a quick follow-up: I found this reference invaluable for understanding the construction of the ship. It is the original 1882 Norwegian narrative describing the archeological discovery. Text is in both Norwegian and English. (Found it as one of the “further reading “ references in Wikipedia article on this ship, in case the link below doesn’t work). http://resolver.sub.uni-goettingen.de/purl?PPN561535841
  4. Love your build. Endeavor has been on my bucket list for a long time. I was fortunate to be in Sydney just before the whole COVID-19 thing started, and was able to see the Endeavor replica there. I took this pic, which shows the planking at the bow. Below the wales, the curvature of the planks differs significantly from that shown in the Marquardt AOTS Endeavor book: I was wondering how the kit plans show this. Also, if you look closely at the photo I took, several planks in the white area, as they curve upward, just before entering the black area, that seem to terminate with an odd “hook” shape. I wonder if this is to facilitate attachment to the timbers behind, which are oriented horizontally, rather than vertically as most of the frames are. Looking forward to more of your build.
  5. Ah-ha! Great. I recently finished mine, and will be following closely. I take a lot of “artistic license” liberties with my builds. I thought Dusek made a pretty good kit.
  6. Yeah, thanks mtaylor. Tried that search without success. I’ll probably start a build log on this lighthouse project. .... is this the right place for it?
  7. Not sure if I’m posting in the right place, but if moderator wants it elsewhere, please move it. Close to two years ago, I purchased from Blue Jacket their West Quoddy Head Lighthouse Kit. At that time it had been discontinued for several years, but I persuaded the good folks there to cobble together a kit from whatever parts they had available. I’m finally getting around to starting the project. Around the time I purchased the kit, I was able to find on these forums a build log that someone wrote on this kit. It had details about the electronic flashing light accessory. Unfortunately, the components I received from Blue Jacket have no instructions for this accessory. I am wondering if anyone out there might know of the log I am searching for (I’ve done several searches of the forums without success) and can give guidance. Thanks.
  8. Welcome. Wife and I were in your town about three weeks ago. Was impressed by the models at the Maritime Museum ... great stuff.
  9. I was fortunate to be in Sydney, Australia last week and briefly visited HMS Endeavor. I was surprised to see that the sails were not attached to the jackstays but lashed to the yards. Or am I mistaken that the “rod” above the yard isn’t a jackstay?
  10. Hello, Ensign I know this follow up message is very late from your post ... Did you ever succeed in finding a satisfactory rigging plan? If so, what was it? I am considering a scratch build of Endeavor, and am gradually trying to assemble information, plans, etc. In a couple weeks I’ll be on a cruise to New Zealand and Australia, and hope to get to Endeavor in Sydney, and see if the Maritime Museum might have anything useful for a modeler. Thanks.
  11. I am currently building the Gokstad Ship by Dusek. Integral to the rigging of the shrouds and stay is this “ thing”, to facilitate frequent raising or lowering of the mast. The kit variously refers to it as a shroud block, or shroud cleat, in spite of the fact that it also occurs in the stay. N.Nicolaysen’s beautiful treatise from 1882 on the Gokstad Ship Discovery has a great sketch of it, but does not name it other than “ unidentified implements “. I’m sure 9th or 10th Century Scandinavian sailors had a colorful or functional name for it, probably referring to some animal name, or something to do with a sexual reference ( or maybe both) as sailors are wont to do. In this pic I’ve installed it in the stay. Any suggestions?
  12. Just found your build log on the way to looking for something else. I’m currently cobbling together the Gokstad Ship kit and can appreciate some of the challenges you’ve faced. Will be following your further work ... which is great. Also, big thanks to Louie-da-fly ( and others, as well) for the links he provided on the construction of these viking craft. Great stuff.
  13. Love the insight of your modeling techniques! Really nice craftsmanship.
  14. Regarding your response to my comments about the advantages of solid hull vs. POF or POB:  (not wanting to further hi jack MTaylor’s log)

    Yeah ... remarking station lines frequently is a pain, that’s for sure. However on the flip side, it ain’t hard to establish a waterline! But one spends much more time referencing station lines, it is true. 

  15. I’ve been following your build with great interest. This is going to be a great project. Your recent posts cause me to raise a question: On a ship with a complicated hull shape, that will present huge ( at least to this modeler) planking challenges, why not create a solid ( bread-and-butter) hull lay-up to begin with? Admittedly this question is coming from a rank neophyte modeler, clearly out of the league of you and most of your followers, but it seems to me most plank-on-frame and plank-on-bulkhead scratchbuilds wind up adding so much blocking that one has nearly a solid hull in the end, anyway. Why not start with one? Obviously, if one desires to model any interior detail a solid hull is out of the question, but aside from that, I am at a loss to come up with drawbacks to using a solid hull method. I am, of course, ignoring the satisfaction one may enjoy approximating true shipbuilding techniques, and the fact that one may have a sizable investment in technology and tools aiming to perfect POF or POB modeling (which can be big considerations), but to more quickly go from 2D plans to a 3D object, a bread and butter lay-up seems the ticket. ( Kit manufactures, I assume, find producing POF and POB kits more economical than producing kits with solid hulls AND planking to cover them) I apologize for sounding critical ... that’s not the intent. Merely trying to ascertain the fascination with POF method when scratch building. Maybe it just comes down to personal preference. Thanks. Sorry for the soap-boxing in your log. I’ll enjoy following your progress.
  16. Yeah, Wyoming at 1:96 would be an impressive kit. I was intrigued by reading the book A Shipyard in Maine and, just to appreciate the size of her, built a half-hull model Of her at 1:96 a few years ago. She was really big! Took up all the space on the workbench, and I made her with stubby masts!
  17. We’re Here is a nice choice. After I built Hero I did Fannie Gorham, then We’re Here. My last one was Niagara, but Instead of building her plank on frame, and having only experience on solid hulls, I built Niagara’s hull solid, then planked it. Got all the thrill of planking without the hassles of trying to keep bulkheads square and aligned with the keel, and had an infinite points at which planks could be glued. Had, I thought, very satisfactory results.
  18. Mark Please allow me to slightly hijack your log to ask OC about his suggestion in the post above. Can you ( OC) expand on your technique of painting CA onto wood to strengthen it? Does that help only with minor surface chipping, or does it penetrate enough to actually reinforce, say, a timberhead, or, say, a small spar thru which you want to drill a hole near the end? Again, Mark, sorry for the digression.
  19. Love following your work. Have you ever used any of United Fruit Company’s “Great White Fleet” of refrigerated cargo ships (“Banana Boats”) as a subject?
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