Srodbro

MAN-o-MAN! Does that ever look good,

Ah-Ha! Good news. Glad I found this. Will be following.

Will miss it. And will anxiously await your next build log. Thanks for all your contributions.

I built a solid hull version of Niagara that I called Lawrence and planked over the solid hull. Had no problems. I made my own planking from clear white pine, cheap and readily available. I think it turned out well. With regard to using other woods in lieu of painting ... the red stripe below the gunports is Redheart, and the lighter stripe above is Osage Orange. I know both will darken over time, but I treated both with Hard Oil which will slow the process.

Very nice work. I have followed with interest and admiration.

Hi, Jeff This Kit was my first, as well. It was very frustrating to me to try to get the blank to match the hull profiles of the plans ... so much so that more than once the kit wound up in the trash can ( subsequently retrieved). But, with much filler, filing, sanding, more filler, more filing, more sanding, I finally got to what was pretty close to the drawings, and acceptable to me. I found that hull blanks vary greatly from what you would expect to get based on the drawings (true for several manufacturers), and frequently are not symmetrical side to side or end to end (I even had one where the deck centerline was about 10 degrees off from the keel centerline!). Ultimately I found that building up my own solid hull using layers of Wood cut out based on the kit drawings and sandwiched together with glue gave me a much closer starting point than the kit blank. Since then, I’ve built half a dozen solid hull models, which turned out pretty good. Here is what I concluded: Nobody is going to see my model in a museum so it just has to be good enough for me. Symmetry from portside to starboard side is desirable but generally not critical because one almost never sees both sides at one time. And, there is no sin in using a lot of filler, if the hull is to be painted. Yours looks pretty good. I’d prime the hull before adding the deck, as you may find the priming will highlight a lot of imperfections not noticeable at this stage. I typically have to prime/fill/sand several times before I’m satisfied. Its unfortunate that these hull blanks are frequently so far off ... I’ll bet that has caused many modelers to trash the whole thing and thus be deprived of the rest of the fun and satisfaction of completing the model. There must be something in the kit manufacturing process that makes good hull blanks too expensive to produce ( hence, the proliferation of plank on bulkhead models). Keep at it .. you’ve a good start. Will be following.

The reconstruction is being performed at Mystic, Connecticut. But, you can’t see a lot of her ( at least you couldn’t in June 2018)

Ron: Fife rail looks good. Before mounting, you might want to consider reinforcing the joinery ... those rails take a lot of stress during rigging, and are a pain to repair at that point of the build. Pics below show how I inserted brass wire at the joints, and also when I mounted the assembly onto the deck. Just a thought.

Deck houses look really good. I’d have built them up by applying details to a solid block of wood. ... it doesn’t appear that is what you did. Can you describe your construction of them?Pics?

MBJ: Your wheelhouse looks good. Just curious: In many build logs I’ve seen nice detailed wheel houses, but then no deck furniture that would house a compass ... will Red Jacket have a something to steer by nearby?

Thought I’d close the loop on this. In the end, I built a mock-up of the mast and some of the rigging, attached my sail, sprayed (saturated) the sail with diluted white glue, and dried with a hot hair dryer. After attaching to the model and adjusting the rigging, I got something pretty close to the look I was chasing. The idea is that the wind direction is at the viewer’s back. Thanks, all, for the suggestions.

Gary: In reviewing your log, I’m not sure if you have yet stepped your bowsprit...I know you’ve rigged much of it. In the sequence you described, you’ll have to step the bowsprit prior to rigging your foremast stays (obviously). I’d suggest getting the bobstays below the bowsprit secure before any of the foremast stays ... without them (that is, without the rigging below the bowsprit that runs to the hull) there might be a tendency to bend the bowsprit assembly upward while tensioning the foremast stays, which may be difficult to correct given the few lines opposing them run between the bowsprit and hull, and the relative whimpy-ness of the dolphin striker. Other than that, I’m really diggin’ your sequence, and fully appreciate delaying many of the lower shrouds and ratlines until after all that stuff to the fife rails and pinrails is in ( the fairleads for buntlines and leechlines need only be attached to the foremost and aftermost lower shrouds). Although the forecourse and maincourse sheets will have to follow, they are more easily accessible.

Gary Superb work. Really enjoying you log. Something you might consider when addressing your lanyards and lower deadeyes is a template (adapted from EdT’s Young America build) that holds the deadeyes exactly horizontally aligned and spaced while adjusting shroud length before reeving the lanyards. Here’s a pic of my application of his method.

Tom: While you are working near the skylight, I was wondering if you intend to include a compass on it. While building my model, I discovered there is no mention of a compass or binnicle in the directions. Nor have I seen one in any build logs. Hard to imagine Niagara without one. There is a pic in Jersey City Frankie’s collection of pics of the actual modern ship with a “cabinet” containing the compass forward of the tiller, atop the skylight.

I just picked up this kit, which I promised my great-nephew that I’d have done for him by this Christmas. Really look forward to your posts.

Tom: I have been following your build with great interest. You’re doing a really fine job, clearly better than I’ve accomplished. I’m building a scratch version (but, based on the Model Shipways Niagara plans) that I’m call the Lawrence, and taking a lot of liberties with the appearance of the normal color schemes. That aside, I have a question for you about your forceps post. As I’m getting into rigging, I am experiencing frustration with the forceps I use ( they are on the bench of the pic above). I find that as I squeeze harder on the legs, ( which occurs whenever the manipulation of a line becomes more detailed) the tips of the legs of the finer pair part, usually releasing their grip on the lines, especially if working with fine thread ( like on the ratlines). I don’t think I’m unreasonably heavy handed, but maybe so. I was wondering if you have experienced anything like that with the set you mentioned. If those forceps are immune to this deficiency, I know I’ll be getting a pair. Again, really enjoy you log. Hope you soon overcome that bug.

Welcome. Lots of great modeling advice in these forums ( with the possible exception of the following paragraphs). I built plastic models as a kid, and when I was approaching retirement returned to the hobby. My first wooden ship model was Yankee Hero by Blue Jacket. I started with it primarily because I wanted a ship model for our place in Eastport, and an Eastport Pinky seemed a good choice. I found it was a good starter kit: Solid hull ( no planking), simple rigging, good advice on modeling techniques, and very good directions for a beginner (some more advanced kits have instructions that assume the builder has a lot of experience and knowledge of nautical terminology; and old kit I got on eBay had a total of one typewritten page). Next I resurrected a 50-year old partial complete plastic Constitution from the attic, and completed the rigging. Since then, moving away from plastic (which in no way is to denigrate plastic modeling) I’ve done the New Bedford Whaleboat, Dory, Fannie Gorham,We’re Here, Dapper Tom, Wyoming (scratch built half hull), Fra Berlanga (scratch half-hull half model) and currently working on a scratch build of US Brig Lawrence ( based on Model Shipways Niagara drawings). Clearly, I prefer solid hull work (my Lawrence is the only planked model, and that is plank-on-solid hull). Early on it seemed that an inordinate amout of forum discussion revolved around planking on frame or bulkhead problems, so I determined to avoid those. I don’t think that doing so has short-changed me on the pleasures of the hobby, but who knows, I might head in that direction some time. Which is not to say solid hull work is without irs challenges, as well. Following Mr BlueJacket’s build log of the Red Jacket kit will give a fair idea of solid hull work. One last bit of advice ... complete one or two simple builds before crowding your closet with unbuilt kits, as many of us do. Have fun.

Bob Cleek: ”Acoating of white shellac is an excellent sealer for model parts.” When would one apply the shellac? Must be after planking, since we need moisture in the planks to form to the hull ( less so for a deck). But, If after planking, which is after adding blocking between ribs, how does sealer get to the underside of the plank? The blocking should be coated as well, before planking? Or, is the idea that you seal as much as you can , and continue to hope?

Jack: regarding rigging ... I found this an invaluable reference when I built my Fra Berlanga refrigerated ship FM 55-17 Chapter 3, Ships Gear and Rigging Procedures https://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/army/fm/55-17/ch3.htm

I agree with all said above, especially if you’re new to modeling ... incomplete kits can be very frustrating. But I’ll offer one exception that the old kits provided that newer ones don’t: Some of the old kits had solid hulls made of really good wood .. very dense, straight grain a pleasure to work with hand tools. Not sure if it was old growth pine or southern yellow pine, but was really nice stuff. Found two Dapper Tom kits on eBay from late ‘50s early ‘60s. The rest of the wood was pretty much junk (warped dowels, splintery planks) and castings with white powder corrosion product on them, and discolored and rotting rigging thread. So, I too would stay away from “vintage” kits, unless trying to win the lottery and find a solid hull that can take a beautiful finish.

Joe: Can you say where your illustration comes from? Does it have accompanying text? Grandpa was a blacksmith, and I think there are a couple pieces of iron shaped like those in the pic deep down in the cellar. A reference might help me identify them. Thanks.

Fra Berlanga cargo handling booms were arranged with four booms occurring on each of two boom tables elevated above the deck, fore and aft, and two “jumbo” heavy booms, each located near one of the boom tables, on the deck, to serve the larger fore and aft hatches. I fabricated the booms of telescoping brass and copper tubing. The gooseneck that hinges the boom at its base was made of polystyrene and a fine brass nut and bolt, and steel washers at the base. It does look like a goose, with a big cigar! Winches were modeled with polystyrene, brass tubing and steel flat washers. These elements were of sufficient detail to illustrate the basic working of the rigging. I wanted my Fra Berlanga to represent a ship handling cargo at dockside, with booms active in several configurations. Some booms are in a stowed position; a single lightweight boom is active at the aftermost hatch; two booms are active at the after kingposts; at the forward main hatch the jumbo boom is active; and at the foreword most hatch, two light booms are active. Modeling the single after hatch boom was pretty straightforward, but it did present the problem of what to do with the port side guy, which should terminate anywhere between ship centerline and near the port side rail, which in my half-model doesn’t exist. I decided to include this guy, but just have it terminate at the deck at the ship centerline. At the after main hatch, I have the activity of the two booms from the port and starboard kingposts. I wanted to include the portside boom, since it extends to the starboard side of the centerline, so I included the upper portion of this boom, and just allowed the lower portion to “disappear “ into the background. Here, a temporary backboard is mounted hold rigging until the final backboard is added. I used a similar arrangement at the forward hatch being served by two booms mounted on the boom table. Again, the portside boom and it’s rigging elements from that side disappear into the background. The final bit of rigging was the stays and radio antenna. Finally, Fra Berlanga was ready for mounting onto a backboard. Finished backboard, with appropriate rigging disappearing into it. Fra Berlanga was a good project. I learned a lot about cargo ships, United Fruit Company, “Banana Republics” and some modeling techniques, while being able to provide a friend with a piece of family history. Overall, very rewarding hobby. Thanks for following, and for kind comments.

Please accept a comment from an absolute novice: I have often thought that the “16th century planking rule” you mention must have applied (except, perhaps, on the day they were launched) to nearly all wooden ships, especially warships, that went on multi-year voyages, far from home ports. I find it hard to believe that after several years at sea, battling foul weather and reefs, not to mention cannonballs, and the lack of good timber remote from home or friendly ports, that given such conditions, planking rules other than the one you mention were the norm. Of course, all evidence of my theory probably rests at the bottom of the sea. Absolutely enjoy your wonderful build.

The masts and kingposts were only temporarily fitted in the previous pic, and were removed for addition of additional deck details. I used brass accommodation ladders and rails from Blue Jacket. Here I departed from what Fra would have actually looked like, by leaving them natural brass ... I’m sure a working ship would never have these, no matter how much of a “spit-and-polish” Captain she may have. A concession to artistic license. Funnels, ventilation goosenecks, lifeboat stanchions and boats, portholes, and her name, were also added. Oh, yeah .. the propeller shaft nacelle was extended, and the propeller added just prior to detailing the decks. Not being familiar with the rigging of mid-20th Century cargo ship, and wanting my Fra model to represent the characteristic cargo handling equipment, I began an internet search for information. Several diagrams were instructive. Several lessons were immediately evident. First ... there is a lot more rigging than I ever thought. Second... one, two or even four booms might be attached to a single “hook” to handle cargo out of a single hatch. Third ... Fra was equipped with a “Jumbo” boom at each mast. [Images from HyperWar Foundation, ibibilio.org] Depicting these schemes on a half-hull model will present some unique modeling challenges.

The deck structures are rather simple. There is a catwalk and machine house for rudder control equipment, then the rear after cargo hatch, the raised hoist table, the fore after cargo hatch, then the midship section with four superstructure decks. Forward of the midship superstructure is the main forward cargo hatch, the forward hoist table, and the smaller fore hatch. The several decks of the superstructure are made of thin sheet polystyrene. To fabricate the curved front of the superstructure, I created a curved form and laminated together three pieces of 1mm thick polystyrene. In my initial attempts, I used CA to glue together the pieces. To my surprise, the styrene was weakened by the CA, and the pieces soon snapped while clamping. I then repeated the process using modeling cement made for styrene. Then used CA to fasten the molded polystyrene pieces to the wooden superstructure pieces. After completing the deck structures, the foremast, mizzenmast and fore- and aft kingposts were added. These were fabricated of copper and brass tubing. Fra’s red and white hull colors were added, as well as United Fruit’s characteristic stack colors.