Tigersteve

Thank you very much  Mr. Passaro. I am very glad to be able to participate in this project. I am also very happy to offer every member Boxwood and Asian jujube wood sculptures.
 
I will introduce the sculpture in detail and answer your questions. An important purpose of starting this topic is to find out how many members are interested in boxwood or Jujubewood sculptures. I will start to produce according to the quantity needed. Whether it is one set or 20 sets, I will try my best to provide you with good products.
 
All members interested in buying boxwood/Jujubewood sculptures can express his wishes in replies. I will make a preliminary statistics. I will know how many people need this set of wood sculptures. Then I will produce sculptures according to this statistics. If you don't want to publicly express your purchase intention, you can also send me PM. Ultimately, before selling, I think I will become a sponsor of MSW first, because I'm still preparing my studio named CNC Shipmodel. Usually I will produce 10 sets, unless more than 10 people need it, then I will continue to show you the completed carvings until all are completed, then i will accept the order. I will give priority to those who reply to the purchase wish.
 
Almost forgot to say that I only accept orders from members(or modelbuilder) who have purchased Kit of Winchelsea from SYREN company, but not from anyone who have not purchased that KIT!!!
 
I solemnly assure you that all the software I use for this sculpture, whether for design or NC processing, I have purchased commercial licenses. Before developing and making these sculptures, I have sent all the purchase certificates to Mr. Chuck. All the software I use is purchased by myself. The authorized person is myself, not my company or anyone else. All 3D models are based on Mr. Chuck's drawings, and originally designed with Mr. Chuck's permission. All the 3D models were made by myself, and all the NC programs were written by myself, so these sculptures were  made according to Mr. Chuck's drawings originally.
 
First of all, I would like to introduce the difference between Asian box wood and Asian jujube. Because of the reasons I mentioned earlier, the price of this set of sculptures is not cheap, so Mr. Chuck has provided you with Resin-Cast sculptures. Mr. Chuck wants me to continue making some boxwood sculptures, because Winchelsea is really a beautiful project, and maybe many members will need years to make her. Moreover, Mr. Chuck has devoted a lot of energy and years to providing you with high quality KIT. Perhaps many members want to use the boxwood sculpture to complete the project. Mr. Chuck also wanted me to offer a relatively inexpensive but good version, so I chose Asian jujube wood. Judging from the previous pictures, it is estimated that many people find it difficult to distinguish the two kinds of wood.
Undoubtedly, boxwood is almost the best wood for ship model or sculpture, while Asian jujube has a hard and dense character, and its color is similar to that of boxwood. Because of the high price of box wood, many people use pear wood (Swiss pear wood) to make ship models. Compared with Swiss pear wood, Asian jujube wood is not as delicate as pear wood, but jujube wood has similar color and performance to box wood. Because jujube wood is too hard, it is not suitable for manual carving, but it is very suitable for CNC. There are yellow and reddish brown, but I only provided yellow one this time.

Asian jujube (left) and Asian box wood (right).

Because jujube wood is more easily oxidized, the color of jujube wood tends to be more golden, but the color of jujube wood and boxwood is very similar when they are just finished processing.
 
If you need the best one, then box wood is your choice. If you want to use wood sculpture, but you want to have a relatively cheap price, you can consider jujube wood.
 
Secondly, I would like to introduce the processing technology of this set of sculptures. Thanks to the precise 3D modeling, although I can't communicate and modify the sculpture face to face with Mr. Chuck, when Mr. Chuck received the sculpture, I think it fits well with KIT, because Mr. Chuck didn't ask me to modify the size, including the figurehead.Unlike many other carvings, I use complex composite processing technology, that is, relatively complex NC programming, so you can get separated sculpture, while many others are single-sided sculpture and the precision is relatively low, which requires quite a bit of work on polishing and refining. I used a variety of milling cutters mixed processing, and the use of composite processing technology, so that the sculpture looks like polished, and has been separated from the board, as long as you do some polishing and decoration, you can get very delicate carving.They are taken directly from the machine tool, after simple cleaning, without polishing and embossing, that is to say, what you get is what you see now.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Jack

As you guys know, The decorations for the Winnie can be purchased in either milled wood or as cast resin pieces. 
 
There are 18 individual carvings so this is a large set.  There is of course the figurehead.....and then there are the stern decorations, drops and trailboards.   See below....although the columns are not included.   These will be made via laser cutter.   The columns are something that cant be CNC carved because the ones for the quarter galleries will differ from model to model.   This also reduces the cost of these....which will be expensive.  The figures on the two columns will be provided but not with the columns.  They will be separated from them.
 

You can buy the CNC milled carvings directly from Jack (HJX) and he will give you those details.  They are available milled in two different woods.  Boxwood and a Chinese Jujubewood.   They look almost identical, however the boxwood versions are slightly more polished when milled.  Jack will explain.  The JuJubewood is much more yellow when a finish is applied.
 
Here is a photo showing both woods....cant really tell them apart.
 

jujubewood below...
 

And boxwood below...
 

 
The Boxwood sets will cost you....
 
The price of the whole set of boxwood sculptures including the figurehead is $320, including postage. Jujube $270, including postage too.
 
Contact Jack directly for these.
 
I am in the process of making cast resin sets in tan which dont need to be painted.   They look really great.  If you want to buy these instead, I dont know the final cost yet but the set will run you around $150.  Here is an image of the resin cast figurehead.  I dont yet have the stern castings to show.
 

Hello gentlemen!

The renovation work on the building is now complete. I retrieved my balcony and reinstalled the workshop. Everything is ready for the rest of the project "La Renommée".






To follow..

Patrick
 
 

Closed up the starboard gun ports. Port side will be presented open. 
Steve

Minor update;
 
I discovered (previous build) that using black nylon fishing line is an acceptable way of adding “in scale” nails to some needed areas.
 
Finished up the platform still need to add the ten deadeyes. Now focusing on the lower main mast.
Used the kit provided dowel, but used the kit bibbs only as a template. Again went to the Boudroit’s book for a guide in adding some extra details. Bibbs should be made up of several pieces of lumber. My results are much simpler than what is in his book. (platform not attached - just for a look)
 
For the cheeks I used pre-scored deck plank sheets. Easier to bend when wet. Now need to see how to properly rope these three cheeks around the mast. Some references have two sets of mast bracing ropes, then cheeks are added above pre-installed ropes and then an outer layer of ropes is added. Hmmm? Need to work that out.
 
Then on to the mast cap, and other needed blocks.
 
Regards,
 

 
 
 
 

The laser cut parts arrived yesterday. I pieced together the knee and compare it to my scroll saw cut one. Laser cut on is on top and the scroll saw cut one on the bottom. 
 
Gotta say, I'm pretty proud of how this turned out now. In my opinion there is a difference in the how nicely the joints come together and how crisp some of the parts are but it seems to only be a slight difference.  Also as chuck pointed out earlier, a lot of these imperfections will not be seen as the knee is going to be painted. 
 
So with that in mind, I am going to continue with the scroll saw cut piece keeping these laser cut parts in my back pocket. Thanks Chuck! now I gotta order some more 1/4" ceder since I used both boards experimenting with the knee... 
 

 
-Joe
Just an Army dude that likes ships

For this step, an alignment rod is use to make sure all the pillars are all on the same line of alignment.
This is the easier way.
Trying to align by eye is  very difficult mainly because the eye does not have direct access.

Arthur, Hurry up and finish the longboat. Then you can get started and catch up with me on this one. LOL
 
I have the Inwales, Gunwales and roller in place. And now I am getting very close to color decisions time. Right now I am leaning toward the following:
 
Hull to Sheer - Dark Green 
Rub Rail - Black 
Sheer - White 
Gunwale/Inwale - Black 
From Inwale to first ceiling plank - Light Green or ?
Ceilings - Gray
Thwarts - Light Brown & Black ?
All else - Natural or Stained
 
And of course I reserve the right to change my mind.

Closed up the starboard gun ports. Port side will be presented open. 
Steve

After a few personal activities including another trip to Florida with my sister to visit Mom for two weeks, the shipyard finally opened again. I swear, my Mom saves all the “honey do’s” to happen when we arrive. We weren’t inside her condo for more than 5 minutes when the land line phone went dead as well as the internet (both supplied by AT&T). {Note: because she is 101, we wanted to ensure that we could communicate with her should the power go out. The landline is the simple analog type which supplies its own power. Cell phones need power to recharge. So, the irony is obvious.] That took a couple of days to fix as they had to dig up the line and replace it. Other things like simply changing a fluorescent tube in the kitchen got more complicated when I discovered that I had to replace the ballast unit as well. Just a typical trip.
 
Then there was the worry about her while Hurricane Dorian park over the Bahamas. The initial forecast had the storm track going right over her home. Luckily that didn’t happen; she didn’t even lose power.
 
Back to the shipyard, I wanted to finally add the bolt heads to the transom bulwarks. This required that I first build the framework for the stern windows and ports for the gun and spar decks. This took a couple of tries as it required critical precise measurements. It may not look precise, but the ports and windows are measured from the center line. All the structural elements will be covered by the bulwarks and planking.

Once that was completed, the transom bulwark panels were constructed, and the pseudo bolt heads were added. At this point, all the bulwark panels were painted green like those forward. Finally, I fabricated two small wooden transom cleats and four transom bulwark steps. Once I painted all the bulwark panels green and the transom steps black, the remaining cleats and steps were installed. This left the cannonade rigging eyebolts to be installed. Those eyebolts which I could install onto the bulwark panels was done, which left 66 or so odd eyebolts need to be stalled just below the gun port openings on the planks just above the waterways, plus about 14 double eyebots.

Got the Port side Bouy and Anchor rigging done.
 
Jesse
 

I was out of town for a while since my last post and work has been bananas since, however I have been on leave this past week so I was finally able to get back to my build. I decided to make my own oars versus using the kit supplied versions. It seemed like an awful lot of work carving and sanding flat laser cut parts into an oar, and I had to make more than just one so this is what I decided to do. Hopefully this will be helpful to anyone else considering the same. 
 
I used the laser cut part for dimensions. I created a blade pattern using Adobe Illustrator that is a close enough approximation of the kit part. I printed these patterns out and glued them to 1/16" thick basswood sheet with Elmers stick glue. After cutting the part out I just wetted the paper pattern with my finger dipped in water and the paper peeled right off. 
 

Next I sanded the blade edges to a round contour.
 

My next step was shaping the handles, I chucked 1/8" dowel (cut a few inches longer than needed, no worry about the chuck jaws leaving marks) into my drill and used a Dremel and sandpaper to shape. The biggest challenge is making all the handles the same shape, I threw a few failed attempts away. 
 

Now I cut the dowels to length, allowing a 1/4" extra for the blade end which I notched with a Dremel cutoff disk. 
 

Next was test fitting each blade, most of the dowels needed to narrowed a hair with a sanding black as the notch in the blades was a tiny bit narrow. This was also the time to mark the dowel with a pencil line on both sides at the blade end for shaping in the next step. 
 

The dowel was then sanded to taper starting at the pencil line and terminating to where the notch fits over the blade. It should be paper thin where it terminates. I did this with a sanding block, then smoothed off the rest by hand with sandpaper. 

Finally the blade was glued to the dowel with thin CA. I used Minwax wood filler to blend the dowel to the blade. This product is water based, dries fast, and sands easy. It took 4 applications with some quick sanding between to build up these areas.  If I intended to leave the oars natural I would have done this differently but the blades will be painted so it seems a reasonable cheat to me. 

Overall I'm happy they all turned out to be reasonable oar clones. 


I only made 6! In my view after a quick placement in the boat, 6 may even be a bit much to pose in the model. There are actually 7 tholes per side, if I made 14 oars they would take up way too much room in the boat for the look I want because bundled together, they just look like a big clunky bundle to me. I'll apply a coat of wipe on poly and then paint these this weekend, after I settle on a color scheme. In the mean time, I'm working on the final bits and contemplating making a few wooden buckets and barrels, the kit provided cast metal bucket and barrel are not very nice in my opinion. I will be moving very soon so I remain hopeful to wrap this project up before move day gets here. Thanks for looking!!

You should test on scrap wood. 
Steve

Haven't updated the log in a while, but work continues. 
 
Molding installed and nails done. Again, if I had it to do over, I'd add the nails after installing each plank.  

Floorboards were up next. Bending these boards was fairly easy. Even the thicker ones. The tougher part was shaving the nylon line flush with a razor on the bent boards without shaving pieces of the floorboards with the edge of the razor blade.
 
           The platforms were next up. The aft platform is easy compared to the little platform at the bow. The angles are tricky, and I cut a few cardstock platforms before I liked one and then transferred it to the wooden platform. I still had filing and shaping to do until I was happy with the fit around the inside edge, and making sure it sat fairly level. 
 
Next were the risers and thwarts. I marked the distance from the top of the rail to the top of the risers on each frame as Chuck suggested. Then measured again to make sure. I took a lot of time getting the height right on both sides. Last thing I wanted was to get to this point and then have a noticeable slant to the thwarts!! The risers were then bent to fit, clamped to the sides, and marked of for nails. I applied the nails off the model. Much easier than it would be after installing the risers.  Then they were glued up, with a clothespin "clamp" on each frame.  Next up was gluing the 2 layers of each thwart together, then fitting them into the slots. The first thwart at the bow was the trickiest. Again, a cardstock thwart was made and cut too fit before trimming the real thwart.. I still managed to mess up the "real" thwart. Luckily there's plenty room around the edges of the laser sheets to cut a replacement thwart! 
 
So here it is as of today. I think I'll add a coat of wipe on poly to the floor and platforms before proceeding the the cockpit bench.  



 
 
 
           
 

Thanks Michael and Rusty for your comments.  I am doing great now and should make a full recovery.
 
I completed the planking and it was time to remove my Longboat from the build board.  I removed the supports at the stern and the masking tape that I had used to tape the bulkheads to the build board.  I removed the fore section first and then the aft section.  A few slight twists of the build board and the Longboat was free from the build board.
 
Next came the removal of the bulkhead centers.  I used a razor saw to cut the bulkheads free.  Chuck's design made this an easy process.  I used my razor saw to cut the bulkhead at the top down to the laser cut line on both the port and starboard sides, gave the bulkhead a slight wiggle and the centers popped free.  This was an easy process and I had no issues removing the centers.
 


 
The model is now starting to look like a boat:

 

Following chainplates (piano, ma sano...  😋
 
Beetween two modelling steps, for changing my ideas, I made this little arrangement of a well known composer :
 
Sinfonia of Cantata BWV 29 (organ)

There is a small gap between the top of the wale and the bottom of the covering board.  Only way to solve the problem is to replace the wale.

 
New piece installed at the fore.

Maury

Before we get to the mainmast, got to deal with Chasseur, the ship’s boat.

I created tie-downs for the boat that thread through holes in the cradle. I didn’t have any particular description of the tie-downs, so I just created what seemed to make sense.

Uh oh, now I have a problem. There is a cleat along the port side rail where one of the backstays for the foremast ties off. With the ship’s boat in place, that cleat is very difficult to access. To make things worse, at some point the cleat broke off from the bulwark. Replacing it with the boat in place is impossible.

Sigh. So those tie-downs were cut after I made a note of how I had made them, and the boat was removed.

I had to create a hole to attach the new cleat. The old cleat had no firm physical attachment to the bulwark besides glue. So here I am drilling a new hole.

I drilled a hole in the base of a cleat and glued a short segment of wire into the hole. This was used to create a more secure attachment point for the cleat.

A small amount of paint was scraped off of the bulwark surrounding the hole, and the cleat was glued to the bulwark. The line is secured to the cleat in the proper configuration; later on a coil of line will be added over it.

So now work begins on the main topmast. Blocks have to be attached to the mainmast cap, which are control blocks for the fore yard. This is the same technique used for attaching blocks in other parts of the rigging, with a double loop of Syren line that is then seized with fly tying line.



Once everything is tightened, Flexament is applied to the seizing, and topcoat is applied to the block.

I love being able to see what the seizing looks like up close using my microscope. I really need to get a camera attachment for the viewfinder, because getting this picture with my iPhone is actually very difficult to line up through the eyepiece. This seizing has not yet been treated with Flexament and topcoat.

This is the topsail rigged to the main topmast. Since it will be modeled in a furled state, its overall shape doesn’t matter. This rectangular shape worked well for furling it into a nice tight bundle. The sail is being rigged to its mast hoops with line that will get all cleaned up once the seizings are secured with glue.

For that step I was able to remove the sail from the mast and bundle it up, first with coarse black thread…

…then more properly with tie-downs made with Morope. Very small reefing knots…

Now it’s on to the main boom, which had previously been manufactured and cleats and jaws attached. Here I am attaching some footropes to the aft portion of the boom. Well, they aren’t actually footropes, but rather the attachment lines for the mainsheet blocks.

This picture shows the relationship between these ropes and their respective cleats.

These loops will serve as downhaul points for the reefing lines of the mainsail.

Fly tying line was used to secure them to the boom.

So here they are in place, giving some idea of where the reefing downhaul points are on the boom.

This is one of the blocks for the mainsheet, which will get rigged to the black lines shown above.

The mainsheet system consists of a single and a double block attached to the boom. The lines run from these blocks to additional blocks at deck level on either side of the ship’s wheel.

Time to rig the mainsail to the boom.

Ready to start securing the foot of the mainsail to the boom.


Plus the same process for the head of the sail, attaching to the main gaff.

And now, the luff is getting attached to its mast hoops.
 


The usual technique, using a double loop of line that is then seized in the middle. Only these seizings are significantly longer than the ones for attaching a block to the rigging.

A bit messy, but these lines will get trimmed off and things will look neater. Under the sail and its spars, I have some anti-skid material that is used under rugs. It’s great for keeping things from sliding around on the desktop.
 
Will continue on the main mast in the next post.
 

Good morning.

In conclusion, my dear friends, I would like to show you the showcase in which "SPERWER" will be stored.
I ordered it from Sergei Fedorenko, who has made it in the best possible way, everything is according to the drawing and the quality is excellent.
As agreed, he sent it to me  in disassembled boards. I assembled it in place.
The showcase was made from 3 parts. The base was made from DSP, the hull, the supporting fixture and the removable cover. The base is covered with green cloth.
LED lighting on adhesive tape. Wiring is in one of the racks and under the batten of the cover.
 My best regards Alexander.

Closed up the starboard gun ports. Port side will be presented open. 
Steve

Closed up the starboard gun ports. Port side will be presented open. 
Steve

Side view of chainplates 1-6 with complete simulation...

Someone needs to write a decent book about fore and aft rigging on period ships because the topic of gaff topsails doesn’t get any attention. I believe your tack will run directly to the fife rail with no lead blocks as I can not recall ever seeing Topsail Tacks run any other way. Leading the tack anywhere other than straight down to the deck would negatively effect the set of the sail. Hand Reef and Steer by Tom Cunliffe and Sailmakers Aprentice by Emiliano Marino have illustrations of tacks going directly to the deck as does Howard Chapelle in American Fishing Schooners. Emeliano Marino includes clear illustrations of SEVEN different types of Gaff Topsails and ALL have tacks running to the deck. And if you give it some consideration you will see why: any kind of lead block a tack would use would need to be well below the point in space where the tack of the Topsail would be situated, and where would that be but directly on the lower mast itself, and what would that do for you that a direct lead to the deck wouldn’t? Also the Tack winds up serving as the Downhaul and you can’t haul the sail through a tack lead block. Here’s a shot of Lynx’s Topsail set.