Tim Curtis

I've glued on the upper head rails with their knights head (timber heads)

It has been quite a while since my last update. My illness along with many other things have kept me from the work bench. Seems life keeps dumping more and more on me including another death in the family. I am very thankful though when I see all the devastation happening in so many places. At least I still have a home and a work bench to get back to.
 
The instruction book has me ready to start permanently adding the bowsprit assembly and rigging it. I am holding off just like I did the Hammock cranes and netting. I like to pre-make all the physical parts from the bowsprit, jibbooms, masts, yards, tops, etc. first. I do this to make sure all parts are made the right size and fit properly ahead of time. I have found in the past that if you don't look ahead sometimes having to alter a later piece might affect how everything fits or spaces with pieces you have already glued in place. This also can apply to how the rigging ends up so I just like to do things this way.
 
The next series of updates will be me pre-making all these parts, a lot of dry fitting and checking that everything will end up like it is supposed to be. Then I will go back and start gluing things into place in their order so I can get to the rigging stages. Below is the only picture I have ready at the moment of constructing the Dolphin Striker. When there are separate small pieces like tis glued together that will have rigging pulling on them I like to have tiny metal pins between each piece for extra strength. More updates coming soon.
 
Jesse
 
 

The hull lined out completely. Garboard strakes in place. Plus one...the imperfections of the hull now stand out. 
Also I repaired the transom. 

and of course the lining on the transom looks terrible, now that I take a picture. Hmmm...I like the look of the starboard better. I'm going to plow ahead with my plan to plank symmetrically, one strake on each side. 

The chainplates were blackened and the deadeyes stropped.  They were then mounted on the channels, with the chainplates nailed to the wales.  The coverstrips, which cover the chainplates and "lock" them in place have not yet been added.

Thank you Graham.
 
Another update, moving slowly.
 
Wales all finished and gunport linings for the upper gun deck finished as well.  Next step is the gunport linings for for the lower and middle gun decks. I have a feeling it is not going to be easy at all. When I finish the linings I will fill the space between the planks in the lower part of the hull and finish.
 
For the upper gun deck linings, the walnut strips (1mm x 16mm) supplied with the kit was impossible to use.  The thickness which was supposed to be 1mm was under 0.8mm and apart from that it was very brittle.  More often than not, it kept splitting in two while trying to trim to size.  Had to order some new ones with the right thickness.  Worked out fine.  
 
 

 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 



 
 
 
Regrads
Robert

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 235 – Fore Topmast Stays
 
There are three forward stays from the topmast head to the bowsprit – the topmast stay proper, the inner jib stay, and the outer jib stay.  The first is the primary structural stay, consisting of a doubled 9" rope looped over the over the shrouds and backstays at the topmast head, then down and under opposite sides of the bowsprit with the ends brought up and seized to the opposite leg.  The two lines are brought together to form a collar below the crosstrees and also at the bottom above the seizings.  The collar is served and leathered and the lower ends are served on both legs up to the seizings.  The first picture shows this stay placed over the masthead after the tissue leathering was glued to it.
 

 
The collar is clamped where it will be seized together and the glue on the leathering was left to dry in this shape.  I used straight PVA white glue for this so when dry the collar will still be flexible.  In the next picture, the two legs of the stay have been passed under the bowsprit, in position for seizing.
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view of the lower area.
 

The two legs do not cross under the bowsprit, so one short leg is seized above the stay and the other below. In the next picture, three seizings have been put on each side and the two legs have been seized together at the top of the served areas.
 

 
Excess seizing thread and stay rope have yet to be trimmed off.  Brushing the seizings and the stay where the ends will be clipped with darkened wood glue will seal the serving and the seizing knots so the excess can be trimmed off.
 
 In the next picture the inner and outer jib stays have been served, leathered and put over the masthead and are clamped where the collars will be seized.
 

 
The leather is simulated on the glued-on tissue strips using acrylic artist's color.  The lower ends of these two stays are shown in the next picture. 
 

 
These each pass through sheaves in the bowsprit, under upper cleats on the martingale and are shackled to eyebolts on the hull – the inner jib stay on the starboard side and the outer on the port side.  After seizing the upper collars, they were pulled taut through the hull shackles and seized.  These stays are served from above the sheaves to their ends at the side.  The inner jib stay attachment is shown in the next picture.
 
 
 The stay is seized to a shackle fabricated with its eyebolt before insertion into the hull. 
 
These last two pictures and the next were taken after installing the fish tackle and some of the jib/staysail running rigging, so some of this appears in the pictures.  Each of these three stays carries a head sail.  This work will be described in later posts.  The last picture shows the ship with all the forward topmast stays rigged.
 
 
 
 
Ed
 

Once it stops raining I will try to get some better pictures outside for better lighting.  The iPhone is ok for general pictures but not so great in lower lighting.
 

I LOVE your beautiful model. This is one of my favourite build logs. You set a wonderful standard for us to aspire to.  One day, in my dreams.....
Tim

I LOVE your beautiful model. This is one of my favourite build logs. You set a wonderful standard for us to aspire to.  One day, in my dreams.....
Tim

Hello - further steps forward. I feel as if I might be half way through the build - am I?
 
Gun port lids done with the bow ones closed.
 

 


 
Channels, deadeyes and chain plates all in place and secured.
 


 
Thank you S Coleman, Blue Ensign and Martin W for your comments - much appreciated. 
Martin - the fenders are kit supplied so not down to me.
 
The kit has supplied chain plates which have a nice way of overlapping which surprised me as this type of detail does not appear anywhere else in this kit.
 
Regards
 
Doug 
 
 
 

Hi - Some more steps forward. 
Rope coils finished for cannons and ladders installed. No room around ladders eh?
Capping rails all done. Certainly improves the look of the build once those edges are covered.
 

 
Skylight (glazed), Binnacle (glazed and with a shelf), Ship's wheel in place and rigged. The wheel rigging simplified, not as plans indicate and used 0.5 thread and not 0.25 as on plans. Don't ask me why, fixed the blocks to the side and not onto the deck as on plans. maybe thought they would sit better.....
Tiller had balsa wood added and rounded off and painted hopefully to look as timber. Tiller housing shortened, didn't look right as supplied in kit.
Ladder fitted and it sits fine as seeing on previous builds the ladder hits the hatch below. Had made lower hatch smaller to avoid this problem.
 

 

 
Overall views
 

 

 
Thank you for looking in. Thanks to Blue Ensign, Martin W, and aliluke (looking forward to seeing your build back on) for your previous comments and those who pressed the 'like' button.
 
Regards
 
Doug
 
 
 

Matti! 1:20 scale. And this is a new team member! His name is Barsik!

Part 37 – Yawl Boat
 
Laws governing oystering in the state of Maryland have restricted dredging to sail-only for many years.  Recently however, the shortage of oysters and the difficulty in getting enough crew to man the oyster dredging boats 7 days a week has caused the state to relax the laws so that dredging can be done using the push boat (called a yawl boat in the Chesapeake) for power dredging 2 days a week.  This has resulted in most dredging boats only going out during their permitted 2 days.
 
The book “Working Skipjacks of Deal Island” by Brice Stump has some great photos of the yawl boat and its operator at work.  The following photo is from the book:
 
                        
 
The operator is helping the Kathryn’s captain maneuver the skipjack by pulling on the ropes on one side of the davit.
 
The configuration of the engine cover in this photo is different from the drawings in the HAER documentation.
 
                        
 
Obviously the yawl boat has been modified over the years, but since the model is based on the HAER documents that reflect how Kathryn was configured in the mid-1990’s, the yawl boat for the model will be built as it was in that timeframe.
 
The HAER documentation contains line plans for the yawl boat, so these drawings were used to develop the keel and frames for the model yawl boat.  The model frames are somewhat thicker than the real frames would be, but these frames would not be obvious in the model and the extra thickness provides some strength to support the planking.
 
                        
 
A holding device (a simple block of wood tapered at the correct angle and with a 1/8” groove milled in it) was made to hold the keel at the proper angle during assembly – this allows the frames to be set vertically.
 
                        
 
The frames were held during gluing by using two machinist squares.  Given the small size of the yawl boat I didn’t think it made sense to try to replicate the jigs I used in the installation of Kathryn’s frames.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The rearmost frame is not absolutely vertical, but I didn’t think this would be a major issue. 
 
When all of the frames were in place, chart tape was used to line off the sheer and the chine.
 
                        
 
Using the resulting drawn lines, the sheer plank was installed on each side, and the tops of the frames were trimmed to the top of the plank.
 
                        
 
The side planking is 1/32” thick.  The sheer plank was made from 1/8” wide piece of madrone.  Since the sides of the yawl boat are straight, the rest of the side planking was made from a single piece of 1/32” castello that was spiled on top and bottom.
 
                        
 
There is a ‘locker’ at the aft of the cockpit, which will house one of the large blocks used to raise and lower the yawl boat.  This was added to the model, and the interior of the yawl boat was then painted a workmanlike grey.
 
                        
 
The exterior colors of the yawl boat mimic Kathryn’s color scheme, so the hull was painted next.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The superstructure of the yawl boat still needs to be built.  This will include an exhaust pipe for the boat’s diesel engine, and will be the subject of a future post.
 
In the intervals between each step of Yawl Boat construction I decided to install Kathryn’s deck planks.  This will be the topic for the next post.
 
 

After finishing up the roughing in of the stern mooring deck; I moved to the bow section which will have an elevated mooring deck one level above the main deck and have the same winches and fittings as the stern mooring deck. So I thought it would be wise to finish both decks at the same time with their winches and fittings. I decided to plank the bow section and finish up the inner container racks while still easy to handle since these ha d to be done before moving on to the bow mooring deck. I plan to finish up as much as possible on the bow section before joining it to the center section. 
 

 

 

 

 

 
I prefer using the automotive glazing putty because it is softer than wood, easy to sand and on the inner surfaces is scrapped with a square blade rather than sanded for easy cleanup. Works equally as well on bare wood and spray painted primer. Think of it as a thick primer and most will be sanded off. I does a great job of filling any deep sanding scratches and plank joints.
 
Now back to a couple of other projects that need attention.
 
 

Hi everyone! So after a long hiatus I am back and delighted to show you all what Ive been up to. Here below are the laser parts I recently made for the revenie cutter. A few are doubled up so to have a spare in case of breakage (or sometimes the lasering has a flaw). Took me awhile to get all the parts just right. Also had a busy month doing performance art with some of ny nyc friends. Happy to be back and buildings once more!

Other than tie off the stay sail sheets, I am DONE with the foremast rigging including 392 clove hitches on 129 ratlines (for those of you counting, yes, the starboard side has one less ratline...please don't tell my wife I made a mistake!).  Now I get some time off and heading for a 3 day kayak trip in Stonington, Maine - one of the most incredibly beautiful places to kayak - not to mention that the majority of lobsters in the US are pulled by the lobstermen in Stonington.
 
Here are a few pics...
 

Details:  Main traveler,base for winch, leads for control lines and digital repeater for GPS, wind speed and direction, etc.
 

Base for traveler.  Winch made from styrene tube and sheet.
 

Running control lines.
 

Rigging traveler.
 

Control lines with jam cleats.
 

Self tailing winch.
 

Spinnaker sheet cheek blocks
 

Wire (rod) rigging.  Adjustment below deck.  Used 24 G soft wire requiring practicing my soldering technique.  Also, I threw out the mast and boom supplied with the kit (square with the slot off center) replacing them with dowels, tapered and using styrene 1/4 round for the sail slot.
 

 

Spinnaker sheets and launching chute.  Also, base for self furling jib with roller control below deck.
 

Tiller with hiking extension arm.

Few more details..
could not find clear evidence for the cleat on top of traveler rail (if it is indeed a traveler as there are several of those rails).
It seems though something is there and seen it on another similar craft... so will let it be

Hello from Chicago to all of my good and concerned friends. My son in law was able to have a company plane come down and pick up my wife and I and a few others at the last minute and we are now with my family in the Chicago area. I am obviously relieved and thankful to be here, but also feeling a little guilty for leaving my friends in Florida. I now join all those who are hoping for the safety of those still facing the storm. Thanks again to all for your support. 
 
Bob

Hi Bob -
 
Glad to hear that you are safe.  You owe that son in law one or two of your beautiful ship models...  I know there are several people on this web site from Florida, and my thoughts and prayers are with all of them.  I have been watching the news this morning as Irma makes her way towards Florida's west coast and it looks really bad.  If nothing else, I hope these storms will help to bring us back together as a nation of people helping and caring for one another.
 
<<Gary>>

Hi All,
 
Well all of the carronades and long guns have been rigged and rope coils placed.

 

 
I also put the pumps in place.
 

 
 
Next up I’ll be doing the rudder and tiller. Thanks for stopping by and all the likes.
 
 

I'm not entirely sure what to do about the ends of this middle deck.  I don't want any ply to show, but not sure what would be the best solution.

The markings on the edges of the deck portray the gunports. I marked them now so I could see where they would be placed and if they will hit any of the frames that I need to make. 
 
This is where part of my problen lies. As you can see, the last gunports on both sides are very close to the frame. Should I build a wall on the frames next to the laat gunports? Should I cut out more of the frames so the cannon has more space between? Should I say, "HECK WITH IT!!!!" And mow down the rest of the frames and fully model the middle deck? I swear, it feels like once you have done some scrarch building, it's hard to stop! I dont need the model to be 100% accurate, but placing a wall right after the last marked gunports doesn't feel right to me.
 
I plan on planking only half of the upper deck (but adding the deck beams, ect ) so you can see through to the middle deck.
 
Any opinions would be very welcome!
 
Jeff

Anchors and anchor buyos - the anchors are made from three parts soldered together.

Cheers gents.
 
Christian - I'm being consistent in using the Admiralty paints yellow ochre which I quite like.  Constant handling of these parts seems to be no match for any paint and paint rubs off the high spots despite an undercoat.  Should not be a problem to get looking OK when the time comes.
 
Cannon Conundrums (or "Armament Angst")
 
I felt I needed a bit of a change of pace while continuing to work slowly on the stern, and decided to get a head start on the cannons as I foresee these being a rather repetitive activity.  Psychologically, it feels like I'm getting a head start on things a little by commencing work on these now rather than waiting until I have to do them.
The first decision was to finally decide on which barrels to go with.  Photos below show 3 options, specifically left to right, Chuck's Syren offering, RB Models and the kit supplied barrels.  I know I posted these pics in Andy's Diana log, but can't remember if I did here so pls forgive any repetition!
Kit provide barrels - Painful as it is, the kit provided ones just don't cut the mustard with the bore being too large, the muzzle not being the right shape and the pommel just way too big. Chuck's barrels are very nice indeed, while the length certainly works, the bore seems a little small and for a 1:64 18lb'er and overall the barrel is a little dainty to my eye RBs Models (44mm) are also very nicely shaped and to my eye seem to fit the needed proportions best.  Each barrel is also supplied with a scale precut trunnion of high quality, so some labour would be saved there.
Next up, carriages.  I had ordered a set of Chucks Syren carriages a while ago and finally got round to building one up in addition to a kit carriage for comparison.  Pictures are self explanatory and show the kit carriage with kit barrel (left) with Syren carriage and RB models barrel (right).  Making these up allowed all the possible permutations to be tried, but these are best comparison.  Note - these were built over a number of very brief 10 minute sessions when I could escape to the boat yard, i.e. very quick and dirty, with quick paint job and no fittings. 
 
Couple of things are apparent:
The kit walnut is not great, being very splintery with pronounced grain, and would require a lot of work to get an acceptable finish.  The carriage is noticeably a little more squat, and the 2mm thickness of the ply looks less substantial, and the trucks a little on the small side. Similar level of finish work on the Syren laser cut parts gives a much better result.  Dimensions all around look a little more pleasing to my eye.  
The width of the Syren carriage were made slightly wider than the plans indicate to try and better scale to the RB barrel.
 

 
Final comparison was to place in situ.  The RB/Syren combination seemed to sit nicely mid port.  Placement of a quoin will need to be thought about as the barrel is probably already at approximately the right elevation.  Feel the RB/Syren combo is  clear winner, despite the additional investment that will be needed my view is that this will ultimately provide a more enjoyable building experience, especially as 28 of these puppies will need to be made up...
 

 
 
 
 

This is one of my favourite builds on MSW at the moment. Thank you. Its beautiful! Tim