aliluke

Hi

It's been a while. I've had major health setbacks which I won't bore you with but they taken away time to work on Fly. 

I have managed to finish the 28' pinnace by Vanguard Models. An amazing little kit but trickier to build than the VM launch. Some minor changes to the kit that I made:

- Added mast steps

- Added ringbolt to the front eyebolt

- Added locker to the stern seat

- Added capping rails to the stern transoms

- Added anchor rope

The colour scheme is just my choice. I know there are some historical inaccuracies but I'm mostly building out of the box and looking for ease rather than historical perfection.

I stole the oars from the launch...

Slight annoyance - there is a knot in the third thwart from the bow. Nothing I can do about that but it looks like a stain...

I'd buy one but given the driving distance, I have to pass. I lived on Cape Cod three times - South Dennis, Dennis Port - working in a fish market and as a stern man on a lobster boat out of Harwich Port fishing in Nantucket Sound with Harry Hunt Jr. (a legend) on the Gertrude H.

Cape Cod would be a drive away but was thirty years ago. Postage is a killer...

WOW!!! WOW!!! That is a triumph, reflecting your skills and the quality of the kit. Brilliant from all angles.

I have no idea what the term is but your work is perfect eye candy, an amazing build - gold standard - and a pleasure to follow.

It's impossible not to like this ship, the kit and your rendition of it. The bowsprit says purpose, sail and speed. The array of guns - watch out, we are fast and dangerous!

Lovely work.

I can see your thinking but do you need to cut a test pattern for the quarter deck as well before committing? That way you can see the overall look? Just a thought.

There is nothing not to like about this! Seriously good - an amazing ship wonderfully rendered. I look forward to your finish line.

Have a look at my HMS Fly log Blue Ensigns HMS Pegasus log - nothing wrong with copper if you get it right and when you do it looks great! I used copper strips - sort of like a tape but you can snap off the individual plates to tune it to the curves. I disagree with Keith, the scale is fine but you have get it right as once you start there is no going back. Other choice, if you don't want all natural, is paint in off white/cream. Unless the planking is immaculate, see Blue Ensigns logs (his planking is always immaculate), copper or paint hides all of the ills of us less skilled. I also used an unusual aging technique for my copper plating. The outcome looks good to my eye but it does need a leap of faith...

Excellent model! That is exactly as far as I intend intend to take HMS Fly although that still feels a long way away...

Superb! Such a great rendition of a great subject. Love it.

Speed definitely doesn't equal poor work in your case Dan. It looks superb. 

You are very organised! For the cannons have a look at my Fly log or Blue Ensign's Pegasus log. Mine were from RB. For the swivels I used Syren. There are many more alternatives out there these days with 3D printing coming on stream...but the RB version is just fine in my opinion. The kit supplied versions are a shocker.

Hi Bob

This is a great kit designed by Chris Watton I believe. Since it was produced things have changed. The cannons are not up to scratch but these are details. Heaps of logs for Pegasus here, but "Blue Ensign" is the definitive one that I'd refer to. 

As said, it is a brilliant kit and even without incidental upgrades it will turn into a beauty - upgrade the cannons though - the kit ones supplied are shockingly bad. Blue Ensign's and my Fly log give you advice on that.

Enjoy the build - a great kit choice!

I tried to make a donation through all the channels and then get this screen message:

Then I wonder if my donation has been processed after all - details were taken. I'm very confused...

In antipodean parlance we'd call this: 'Done like a dog's dinner.' Or perhaps the UK shares that phrase?

My vote is don't copper. The planking is just too good to be covered. But, you are masterful enough for either to look fantastic.

Hi Dan

This is looking great! Every time I see this ship I like it more.

For breeching ropes I use 0.6mm Morope which feels about right to me.

For accelerating the aging of copper I use a radical technique, which you can see in my Fly log, but there are other ways of doing it which might be more pleasant...

I have just been through your log - wonderful work all round and the finish line must feel great.

That is, simply, stunning!

Very nice!!! Hopefully I can get Fly to the same level of finish. I'll be very happy if I do so.

Superb! I look forward to the finishing straight.

Hi Dave

Yes I have seen that alternative method - top two rows of plates being parallel to the waterline. But I think that was a later technique than would apply to Diana. Perhaps the best reference to coppering in the 18thC is the coppered model of Bellona at the NNM https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-66299  This stunning model was used to demonstrate the practice of copper sheathing to King George III in 1778 and definitely does not show the later method. That is reference that I used for Fly based on the AOTS of Bellona but I don't know if Fly was even coppered - it is just a look I like!

Also have a look at 

Hi Dave

I wouldn't normally post a photo on another persons log - feel free to ask me to delete it - but the one below isn't in my log - there is one of the stern there. It is a long time ago since I did this coppering exercise. There was trimming and, perhaps, some tiny overlaps? You can see in the photo where the top line of rivets might will have been trimmed and more severe trimming as the curve rises. i always trimmed the top of the plate not the bottom, otherwise the flow heads in the wrong way. I installed the top PVC trim at the waterline first to work up from the keel towards it, keeping the plate curves gently rising at the stem and stern. With copper tape you can trim to the waterline later but with plates I think that'd be very difficult if not impossible. In my original log someone suggested that the plates should start parallel to the waterline and then work down. This is completely wrong - parallel to the keel and then work up, keeping that rising curve going. Don't leave gaps - trim using the rivet lines as a guide. Overall my outcome is not as smooth as sanded planking but is smooth enough that it looks to eye to be completely smooth. Hope that helps?...

It all looks great Ron. I presume those boat kits come with the main kit? They look bloody hard to plank. Hope that goes well. I used the excellent Vanguard Models kit for my boat but they'd be the wrong scale for Victory.

To copper or not to copper? I can't remember which plates I used but was fine with them. Given the perfection of your planking, Maurice, I wouldn't copper but...the final aesthetic suggests I might. I had the same, self, question with a well laid, to my eye, second layer of boxwood planking and decided to copper to learn how to do so, plus liking the look of your Pegasus. You already have learnt. That doesn't help at all does it!? Either way it'll be stunning. Me, I'd copper for the contrasts, the planking is proven, but it's not my ship...