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Keith Black

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Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. Dang good thing they don't look like turkeys!
  2. Another approach for a beginner with no ship building experience is restoring a model, not a plastic and not a decorative model. If you can't tell the difference between a decorative model and a kit or scratch built model, please look through MSW build logs till you can tell the difference. Restoring a model takes money (probably as much as buying a good kit) and time both in the doing and research. Spending time and money on a decorative model should be avoided as they have little to no value other than possibly historical. . This past year the prices for damaged models on eBay, Craigslist, and Marketplace have risen to crazy levels. At one time one could buy a good POB model with damaged mast, bowsprit, and rigging for $80.00 to $100.00. That same model today is selling for three times that amount. So is it worth it? IMHO, I don't think so, not at $300.00 but for $80.00 to $100.00, maybe for the right person.
  3. Gary, we are looking through a wall correct? Couldn't the press be on the front edge across from the main workbench with the back to the viewer? I'm loath making the suggestion but golly I hate seeing any of your work being left out. You've made such a wonderfully detailed and totally believable scene that rivals the boat shop which I didn't think was possible.
  4. If the lower yard for either the fore or mainmast had to be lowered for repair or replacement, wouldn't a great deal of purchase be required to lift the yard back up the mast into position?
  5. MIR, welcome to MSW.
  6. Marcus, see the below link. This is great wire for stropping blocks. The only problem is that it only comes in 24 and 28 GA. https://www.dickblick.com/products/ook-dark-annealed-specialty-wire/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=33418-1024&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-4j26sbp8wIVJGpvBB2EXgJrEAQYAyABEgI9S_D_BwE
  7. I wish ours were bare, we still have about 50% of the leaves left in the trees. We'll be racking and mulching till Thanksgiving if snow doesn't stop us first.
  8. Ilhan, great to hear from you, beautiful work as always.
  9. Pat, does this image help?
  10. Roger, nice detail on the subassembly. The hull is really starting to come together. Did you lose some fruit trees out back this year?
  11. Mark, don't know if you've seen the link below. I came across it last night doing research and thought it would interest you, http://navalwarcollegemuseum.blogspot.com/2014/04/artifact-spotlight-ship-model-of-uss.html
  12. Eberhard, everything is so beautifully executed but the forecastle decking is especially stunning and all at 1:160.
  13. Adam, I admire your determination. Keep up the good fight, you'll get there.
  14. Adam, welcome to MSW. Good to have you aboard and it's neat that you're discovered your passion for galleons.
  15. Lynn, if you have a small stiff brush (a toothbrush will kinda work though it's really not stiff enough) you'll want to occasionally clean the fiber build up between file's teeth so as not to impede the cutting process.
  16. I was torn between a thumbs up and a laughing emoji. Steven, beautiful work on the stern castle. I think Sweet Sue is safe from the evil doings of Salty Sam, I see rescue in the not too distant future.
  17. Alan, you talking to me?
  18. Paul, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard and I look forward to seeing your work on the Cheerful in a build log.
  19. NB, welcome to MSW and congratulations. Good to have you aboard. There is a search function on the main page where you can search 'Mayflower' and see who maybe currently working on the same project or those who have worked on the same project in the past.
  20. Lynn, that's a pretty tight closeup. I'm not sure filler is going to do a lot as you're almost there. The needle file in the photo that's almost in the middle of the package, 6th up from the bottom and 5th down from the top is the file I'd use. Holding the file length wise at the stern and parallel with the hull, set the edge of the file on the edge of the step and with the flat of the file against the hull with gentle pressure move the file forward only. do not go back and forth as this might cause unevenness of material removed. This is kinda like doing your nails with a emery board. The pressure needs to be more toward the hull rather than the edge. Because the edge of the file also has teeth you're going to be dressing both surfaces at once. If you're not sure you're removing material, place a black piece of paper or cloth under the hull where you can see how much material is being removed with each pass. A good trick to use if the step is going to be painted, you can apply a 'trace coat' of white acrylic paint to the step. After the paint dries and you start working the step with the file, the paint/high points will be removed first leaving paint in the low areas. It helps give you a visual guide of your high and low points.
  21. Paul, I use 3M masking tape to make bands. I cut to width and length, place on a porous scrap piece of wood and paint with the required color. When the paint is dry I wrap the tape around the spar, mast, or bowsprit and cut ( I cut on the underside when possible) where the pieces meet. I then seal with poly or one could use varnish. The sealer keeps the tape edges from lifting. If one is worried about lifting, a little CA applied at the edges with any excess removed with a Q-Tip will ensure that lifting doesn't't occur. If I need to make the banding appear thicker I add another layer of tape.
  22. Brian, I like the weathering a lot but realistically, how much weathering took place in just one year?
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