lmagna

You showed me this ship several months ago when I first started my Providence. Now I will get to see how you got to the finished ship.

Dumb question KP but what did you use for the ROV? I can't really figure it out in the picture.

As you already know I also have this kit and I agree with all you have said above. A well designed quality kit of a hansom vessel from somewhere. Knowing the quality of your work, this should be a treat to follow.

I think he has the guns in the kit Mark. He was just too lazy to put them in! Or he took them down to the local pirate shop and discount store and traded them for a couple of pints when Jack wasn't looking!

Fake it!

WOW Moving right along. You must be running low on hull parts! Are you going to leave the lower deck cannon off and just have closed ports?

Here is a short history of the Johnston and Commander Evans and their actions in Taffy 3. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_off_Samar#USS_Johnston There were of course other destroyers and destroyer escorts involved but Evans almost single handed took on a number of Japanese cruisers destroyers and several battleships including the 18" gun Yamoto. The Johnston even managed to blow the bow off of one ship, a cruiser I think. The hull number on the Johnston was 557. As I suspected the Sullivans you have sitting in NY bears little resemblance to the WWII ship.

Looks like you are making progress. The wale looks a little like it has a little wow in it where it curves up and then down again bt to me at least it much better than it was. It also looks like you will have to bring the copper right up to the wale at the stern. In other models I have built, (RC models years ago) I became quite fond of using silicone sealant or glue to attach dissimilar items to decks and other places where you have a relatively large attachment area. I once glued a capstan that has a base of about 1" across onto the stern of a 1/48th scale ocean going tug and was able to tow two people around the lake in an inflatable raft without any issues. It is still firmly attached firmly today some twenty years later with only a thin film of glue between it and the hull. Things like copper strips would probably need something to hold them in place while the glue sets up (30-60 minutes), over night for a full cure. VERY tenacious stuff when set, yet pretty easy clean up if you clean it before it fully sets.

Hi Jack I was wondering what you were contemplating next after your ice boat. From a quick look at the box top it looks like they are representing the ship as in WWII which if you are going to do the two ships together WWII would be a common time for both. I would be more tempted to build the USS Johnston of the Battle of Samar and Task force Taffy 3 fame. But that is me doing the David Vs. Goliath thing again. I'm onboard for this build as well as the Fletcher class is one of my two favorite classes of destroyers and it will be interesting to see what you do with her. I am also interested in your introduction to PE and the use of the bending jig.

I don't have a direct link but there are a number of self adhesive vinyl "Decal" sheets used in the automotive and other industries that not only have a strong adhesive quality but can be used with added heat to conform to odd surfaces. You might try looking at Vinyl laptop coverings. They also have a rather strong adhesive and respond to heat when placing over less than smooth surfaces. Might be a little hard to find the exact color you are looking for but I have seen almost everything from rust to shiny gold, I have even seen wood patterns.

Dave In addition to Marks suggestion you might look into thin vinyl. It comes in thin sheets that can be heated and pressed into place. There is also tis stuff you might like to try. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=Heat+Transfer+Vinyl+for+T-Shirts&_sacat=0

I think we are all guilty of that. It appears that John was guilty twice! His AH could probably bring in another $50-100 K on today's market. Hey John Do you remind the better half now and then how much potential money she cost you! (Probably not a good idea I suppose). Dave Are you going to cover the seats with thin leather like covering or just paint them the right color? They do look much more authentic that the first set.

I think you are doing fine, and learning a lot in the process. As for producing with our hands what our minds eye envisions I don't think there is anyone here who has been able to do that. Might I be so forward though to suggest that you might take the last third of the wale and run it parallel to the shear like you did in the forward two thirds. Also extend the copper a little higher in the stern than at the bow. Most ships of this time drew more at the stern than they did at the bow when resting. I am not certain what the difference is for the Bounty. I think I would have raised the wale slightly and made the blue area thinner and added a little black between the wale and waterline. But there again I have not done ANY research on the Bounty and have no idea what is "right"

I suppose many of us have the same option Jim. I have a guy just a couple of blocks away who has done back pack alterations for me in years past I guess he could do sails also.

I think what Radek is trying to say is that all you need to do is supply him the dimensions of the sails you need and he can make them for you in a custom order. I think you will find that his work and customer satisfaction is top level as is his reliability. His standard method of making custom sails is: You send him the sizes of the sails you want made' When he gets your information he will write the program required to make the sails and establish the price required for sewing. Then he will contact you with the cost and a PDF file that you can print out and test against your model or plans If all is OK you confirm that you are fine with the design. When the sails are made and ready for shipping he will send you photos and an invoice. He accepts PayPal or bank transfer. Upon receipt of payment he will ship you your sails. The full process can take 4-6 weeks as it is a custom order and not one of his regular many sets of sails he already offers. I am not affiliated or connected in with HisModel in any way. I just find him to be a very upstanding source for some of our modeling needs, sails in particular. The above information was obtained from him several months ago in regards to a set of sails I will be having him make for my currant build. In my opinion there is no way I could make finer sails even if I tried. Hope this helps. Sometimes Radek struggles with his English a little, but it does not affect his honesty or skill level. After confirm that size of sails is OK I sewing sails. When will a sails prepared for shipping I send to you photos of sails and invoice. Payment is possibility via Bank transfer or Paypal. After payment I will send it. Complete process will take about 4-6 weeks, because much orders.

Probably about 1967-68. That was before I had to give up on cars, girls and anything else fun and go on a whirl wind foreign tour with Uncle. Things were not quite the same when I got back. Had to sell the MG while I was overseas and was busy raising kids and other things that took precedence when I got out. Steve's wheel was on the left at least. The only right hand wheel I ever drove was a Austin Mini Cooper that went so fast it almost scared me. Another friend of mine raced it in local SCCA competitions. Did OK with it too. I finally got to buy my own Mini forty something years later but even though it is fun to drive its nothing like any of those cars back then.

That doesn't count. That was the real "Boat". We need to see the 1/24th scale ride of Mr. Legoman!

Beautiful job on a fantastic subject Jack. I am glad that you made it through your loss and were able to finish it. I am jealous of the Lego guy. You will have to post his movie when he gets his ride this winter!

That was also my feeling, bringing about the other wonderment. Only twelve oars for a boat that size and the rowing positions stop about 1/4th of the way to the bow.

That is the problem with many of the less expensive solid hull kits that do not provide hull templates for you to work with. Their shaping is only close most of the time and you have to judge with only the use of the MK 1 eyeball to decide when you have sanded them even.

It's that public school education from my day being corrupted by the modern day math they are teaching my grand kids, (and I have to help them with at nights). 2 and a half inches does work out to about 40 feet. Still a big launch though. Almost a third longer than the living room of my house!

That is the problem with Macro pictures sometimes I guess. That would make it about 1 3/8", somehow it looks much bigger. Thanks

Good way to stay healthy!

Thank you for showing how it is done and how, with skill, these small kits can make small masterpieces.

Hi Dave Are you sure you are not from California? This was the car the defeated me as a teen. One of my best friend's, (Named Steve) owned it and as a reward for helping him work on it he let me try and drive it a few times. I stress the word TRY! I could never get the knack of double clutching when down shifting the non-syncro transmission! The grinding almost every time was pure agony! Did OK going up the gears but almost always came to an almost stop before I could go down. Ended up getting an MGTD to restore for myself. It treated me much better but was a daily repair job to keep it running in top form and the wiring was a NIGHTMARE. Fond memories of days long gone.