Matt D

That's a nice big box of goodness.  Breath deep the cedar aroma!  I hope you have a great time with this, Frank!

Those close-ups on the q-galleries really show my mistakes.  I'm not sure I can make them much better, but I'm going to at the very minimum add some filler to the gaps. 

Thank you guys for the feedback.  I really appreciate it.  It looks like the Swann Morton handle works quite a bit different from the Excel and Exacto style handles.  That might solve the problem of them loosening up and wearing out.  I'm perfectly happy with the Excel #11 blades, which are carried by my local hobby shop.  Just not the handles.

I made some progress this weekend.  I completed the Q gallery columns on the starboard side.  The port side has been done for a while, but it looks like I haven’t put any pictures of it in my log.  I’m getting ready to add the friezes and moldings.  The moldings are a struggle.  I tried to make a shaper for the middle molding and thought I had a good profile.  But what came out looks completely different.  It might work for the bottom, but not the middle.  My picture doesn’t really do it justice.

15 hours ago, Ron Burns said:

Right now I'm wishing I had bought Chuck's bulkhead set (hint hint Tom :)).

Ron, I’ve felt the same way for quite a while.  But yours is in a lot better shape than mine.  I think you’ll be able to compensate for any bulkhead related consequences very easily.  One thing that keeps me optimistic about my own is the myriad of places where Chuck’s instructions point out that there will be variations from model to model and he has made allowances for you to adjust parts to mate up to your model.  

Thank you Jaager, John, Ken, Tom, and Gaetan for your responses.  This is very helpful.

Great post, Glenn.  This is a really nice tutorial.  Are these all parts that came with the kit, or did you replace any?

Wow!  You’ve gotten a lot done and it looks great!  

I would like to know from more experienced modelers which brand and model of hobby knife you prefer.  I like the K1 aluminum model from Excel, but the threads give out after about three blade changes and it won’t tighten up anymore.  I’m sorry if this was covered in an earlier thread, but I couldn’t find anything.  Thanks for any advice you might have.

I’m really enjoying this build, Bob.  You’re doing a wonderful job.  The details in this kit are so nice.  

Thanks for sharing the pics of you build jig.  Your setup look very precise and your frames look perfect.  This will be an excellent build!

Hi Tom.  From personal experience, save the baltic birch for something else, where fairing will not be required.  It's a little like trying to sand granite or case hardened steel.  If you read my log, you'll see that my first attempt was with baltic birch.  That set is now hung up in my shop as a decoration because my printer defaulted to "fit to page" instead of "full size" and I had a 0.95 scaling factor on the prints.  That's a different problem, but I could already see that fairing that set was going to be impossible.  My second and current attempt is with the cheapo "birch plywood" from Home Depot.  It's much softer than Baltic Birch.  However, I've said several times in my log that cutting my own has been the source of most of my build problems.  If I had it to do over, I'd shell out the dough and buy Chuck's laser cut set.  If you're really good on the saw, have plenty of time to put into make sure everything is right, and double-check your final contours on each bulkhead, then that might be a good solution for you.  But if you can spend the money easier than spending the time, then buy the laser cut set from Chuck.  Just my 2 cents.

Tom, I'm sorry this happened.  I've thrown out my back a few times and it's a surprise every time.  I know how much it hurts and I hope you feel better soon.

23 hours ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

 

I see what Christian is saying.  In this photo from Post #66, the stem does look a little too thick.  It needs to be tapered as Chuck describes in Chapter 1.  It's clearly not too late to take care of that and you have to be careful to not overdo it.  If you have the figurehead, you'll see that she won't fit as you have it now.

Siggi, your moldings look fantastic!  I love how you finished the ends so they look like proper returns.  I also just looked back at your photos from post 373 through the gunports.  What great photos!

I traced it and cut it out.  It took me three tries before I got it right.

On 1/5/2021 at 2:29 PM, Chuck said:

He was like 100 back then though

Are you sure he wasn't a former crew member on the Winnie?

It’s looking really good!  I have this kit on the shelf.  It looks to me like a great subject, and the history of this model is interest to me.  I’ll pull up a chair and follow your build log.  Good luck with your build!

She looks so beautiful, Rusty.  Your work on the stern and on the paint is amazing!

What amazing work, Chuck!  This is a phenomenal project you’re putting together and sharing with us! 

Welcome to MSW, Neil.  You’re gonna need a bigger boat.  I’m looking forward to following your build.

Welcome aboard and happy New Year, Frank.  Those oliebollen sound delicious.  I wish I had some too!  This is a fun project with lots of members to help and encourage you.  There are Winnies being built all over the world right now.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

Rusty, this is a beautiful kit, and you’re doing a fantastic job on it.  How did you plot the waterline for your masking tape?  It came out so perfectly.

It looks like you’re off to an excellent start, Rich.  I’m looking forward to watching this come together.

Thanks for your kind comments,  Joe, Kathy, and Wyz.  I can’t wait to get back to work on Winnie.  I’m tied up with a kitchen floor project for a little while right now.