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Matt D

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Posts posted by Matt D

  1. Hi Tom.  From personal experience, save the baltic birch for something else, where fairing will not be required.  It's a little like trying to sand granite or case hardened steel.  If you read my log, you'll see that my first attempt was with baltic birch.  That set is now hung up in my shop as a decoration because my printer defaulted to "fit to page" instead of "full size" and I had a 0.95 scaling factor on the prints.  That's a different problem, but I could already see that fairing that set was going to be impossible.  My second and current attempt is with the cheapo "birch plywood" from Home Depot.  It's much softer than Baltic Birch.  However, I've said several times in my log that cutting my own has been the source of most of my build problems.  If I had it to do over, I'd shell out the dough and buy Chuck's laser cut set.  If you're really good on the saw, have plenty of time to put into make sure everything is right, and double-check your final contours on each bulkhead, then that might be a good solution for you.  But if you can spend the money easier than spending the time, then buy the laser cut set from Chuck.  Just my 2 cents.

  2. 23 hours ago, Vladimir_Wairoa said:

     

    20210124_152023.jpg

     

    I see what Christian is saying.  In this photo from Post #66, the stem does look a little too thick.  It needs to be tapered as Chuck describes in Chapter 1.  It's clearly not too late to take care of that and you have to be careful to not overdo it.  If you have the figurehead, you'll see that she won't fit as you have it now.

  3. I’ve spent the past few weeks working slowly on the stern.  I have several errors, but on the whole, I’m pretty happy with it.  I don’t know how you guys make these columns look so perfect.  Maybe I need to build a few more of these before I can get it.  I know one issue is that  my spacing is a little off, making the columns shorter than planned.  I think that is also why the bottom molding on the counter is a little high, creating a gap that I had to cover with a second molding.  I also broke Poseidon’s trident.  I have an idea from Chuck on how to fix it using coarse wire, but I’m not ready to work on that yet.

    751AAB88-FBEC-4B7D-BA94-AC9773F62474.jpeg

  4. It looks great, Peter!  Your 3D printed dead-eye spacers did an excellent job helping you get those shrouds up with perfect spacing.  
     

    That’s funny - I put off rat lines too.  But I did it by leaving a perfectly good kit on the shelf and building an admiralty style model instead.  They look tedious for sure.  I’m sure you’ve read dozens of build logs to find a good method, and I’m looking forward to seeing your winning approach to them.

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