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We've all done it Mark. Although I was having visions similar to that scene in Space Balls where they are "combing" the dessert. Our Hero, Mark the Gallant, jousting with his build, 12 foot tweezers in hand.

Either way the boat looks great.

Sam

50 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

This boat is 'big' one,  Sam and is about 6' long.

6 FEET?? How big are the tweezers? 😀😀

Sam

Well done Mark, those tweezers give a good idea of how small that boat is.

Sam

😳😂

You have just proven what I always suspected. Men and women speak TOTALLY different languages. Translation please?

Well done Jo. This is a good place to learn a bit about planking and wood work as it will hardly be seen when done. Vossie and Mark beat me to it on the pre-sanding and scraping.

Sam

JO, you have the beginnings of a hull! Woo Hoo! AS the others said the decking will help strengthen the hull. I am not an engineer, but I believe what you are creating is a truss by planking the lower deck. If you have some scrap when you finish with the stringers on the upper deck you could also add some additional stringers between the bulkheads. Just measure the distance between the bulkheads at the keel and cut and glue them on right about the deck/bulkhead transition. just make sure they wont interfere with the decking or the bulwarks later. Depending on whether the interior gets planked also you could add additional stringer at the tips of the bulkheads. I am not familiar with your ship, another member may see a reason not to do that. I have no doubt they will jump in and correct me. Then we will both  learn something.

Sam

Johnathan,it looks like I have been missing out on another great build.  Well done.

sam

Jonathan, thanks for the good words. 

I bought all my rigging from chuck@ syren ship modeling. There should be a link in the home page here. 

His prices are pretty reasonable and a very fast turn around here in the States 

Really nice work J, that instrument cluster looks great. 

Sam

Kmart,

Just found your build. Great build to date/ Who would have thunk you could use Exell as a layout tool? I am so stealing that!!

Sam

Nice start Jo. Those legos can do double duty as squaring blocks. a couple of clothes pins (laundry pegs?) as a clamps and you have a nice surface to clamp against.

Now, whats with the champagne??? You keep telling us you're a coffee and tea kind of gal. If your going to crack the bubbly you have to share. 😀

Sam

That is some very nice work indeed, Steve.

But, O!-Hero of ours, where be-eth the operating micro hinges on the seats???😁

I'll go back to my hole now.

Sam

On 3/30/2019 at 5:27 PM, mtaylor said:

"Adapt, improvise, and overcome" is the philosophy and spirit to have.   

That's a great way to approach life in general I have found. You can look at a situation as a challenge to overcome or a roadblock that permanently stops you cold, the choice is yours. How did you overcome the "Leaning Piece of Bulkhead"? A good SHARP chisel will make short work of that as will a file.

Sam

Looking really good Rich. You are just flying along. You get more done in a day than I do in a month.

Sam

Thanks j. I am at work ATM. I’ll see what I can do with that when I get home. 

Sam

J, Dennis, thank you, and thanks to all who hit the like button.

Now, I think I need some advice. As I have commented before I am using TFFM, Lees and the Syren instructions as my inspiration and direction for my rigging, leaning heavily on the Syren instructions. I have come up on a delima, TFFM does not have a Driver Boom and the instructions for the Syren are unclear as to the rigging; they refer to the plans which I do not have. Until/unless I choose to build her I cant see paying for plans.

So my question, how does the driver boom get rigged? Lees appears to show a block in a sling from the Trestle Trees but that would foul on the Gaff. Any thoughts anybody? Picture below, feel free to download and mark up if you think it would help or post a picture here.

Thanks

Sam

How do I rig the Boom????

Mike,

So this is where you have gone off to! I guess I need to look at signatures more often when I return from one of my disappearing acts!!

Sam

In the process of hanging (shipping?) my Gaf. Apparently the Vangs should run from an eyebolt up to the block and back down to a cleat, according to TFFM and Chucks Syren. I am in the process of thinning and reshaping some of Chucks Shroud Cleats and then I will figure out a place to epoxy them on. Once I have stained them to more or less match the mahogany. OR, if somebody has a better suggestion I am open.

Sam

15 hours ago, jct said:

 

like most older aircraft kits the fuselage is split vertically leaving seams that need attention

 

 

Nice progress J. I am out of touch with plastic kits, how are they split now?

Sam

Jo,

Congrats on solving your first challenge! It is amazing what a slight misalignment can cause. Before you trim you might want to dry fit your bulkheads and run your batten strips again, that blue trim line may extend a bit further than you show.

Sam

Caroline,

that lantern looks great. 

For your wires try searching magnet wire. It’s really thin, you’re not drawing much to run that led. It should help you find a way to hide the wires. Now, the mounting of the lantern.... not sure what up to do there. 

Sam

I’ll pull up a chair for this. 

Sam

Mark,

We are using our CNC routers more and more at work for cutting parts and speeding production. Many times we are make frames similar in method to what we do here with false keels and bulkheads. Something I have found benificial is cutting a slight taper to the alignment tabs between sections of what would be the the false keel here. It doesnt take much a few degrees, less at this scale. I have also gone as far as making the pattern different between for instance join AB and BC. It makes it harder to get parts mixed up - not that I have ever done something like that. Nope! Nor Sir, not me!

Just a thought.

Sam

Jo,

In addition to what the others said I think if I was doing this I would lay part 16 on the plans and secure it in some way; push pins, tape something to keep it from moving about. The I would carefully lay your keel on top of that and carefully line it up to the plans and secure it with pins, tape etc. Then with your sharpest hobby blade scalpel or razor knife trace the overlap. That will give you exactly what you need to remove. That will give you a cut line. From there carefully trim away the excess and finish with a file right to the line. You may find you have to add material down at the bottom also.

Best of luck.

Sam

And she is off buying tools. She is hooked. Next it will be the Darkside of scratch building.

Carl, I was making a pun off of your spirits pun by calling you a very "Punny" as apposed to "Funny" person.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pun

Alas, my pun fell flat on its face due to language. Please dont Aikido-chop me. 😁

Sorry to hijack your log Jo, back to you.

Sam