Retired guy

That sounds like a great idea Jeff and thanks for looking in and commenting. Hi Bob thanks for the link, not sure why you regret to placing the chanplates flush with the hull they should be, or are you thinking they should be notched into the planking? flush to the hull? I think it is flush with the hull and you and I have done it correct. Not sure if you have heard of Philip Eisnor he spent a number of years researching the Bluenose and then made is own drawings of her and some of the maritime museum curators suggested that Mr Eisnors drawings are the most accurate of her, I did buy his drawings many years ago and did talk to him on the phone and he told me he had built over 40 models of her, you can buy his drawings on www.modelshipbuilder.com there is also a Bluenose Practicum by Gene Bodnar using Philips drawings on the same site. Here are small pic of his drawing regarding chainplate and a picture of his model (this is for help with build if not allowed please delete) and you will see he has installed chainplated flush with the hull, I am not sure he would have done that if it wasn't correct but I do think he has his chainplates too thick. They have the same on the Model Shipways drawing, they give a dimension of .008" thick chainplates so x by 64 = Just over 1/2" thick Looking at two pictures on the Nova Scotia site (this is to help with build if not allowed please delete) I can see the chainplates are sticking out flush with hull. First pic Bluenose in 1921 Next pic of Bluenose 11 I could not find any other close up pictures which could help but it does look like they do stick out. I am no expert on this subject, if there is anyone near the Bluenose and could take a picture or even measure the thickness of the chainplate and let us know that would be fantastic. Regards Richard

Planking has come out brilliant Justin 👍 Regards Richard

Thanks a lot Keith linkage worked out how I wanted, I am hoping that it might turn the Rudder when I install 🤔 Hi Bob thanks very much for your comments trying to get her as close as possible to what I see in the drawings and pictures. The great information I have got from asking google 😁 and just got a couple of pictures from Robin, would you happen to have any? Regards Richard

Very nice build going on Robin lots of likes 👍 Regards Richard

Very nice Dave isn't it fun to do scratch building, but when you think of it the kit comes with a few pieces which are laser cut, or white metal but all the wood you need to something with it, so that is scratch work 👍 Regards Richard

Thank you very much Dave do love to do extreme details as long as I can have a drawing or a picture which I can scale Thanks Fright do appreciate your post and yes she does look beautiful Hey Mugje was a steel fabricator so yes sort of had a background and thanks very much for your comment Welcome aboard Allan thanks very much for your kind comment Hi Dave thanks a lot its been a lot of fun to make this great schooner Thank you Novastorm she is an amazing schooner and to think when she was first made in 1921 it only took 97 days to build her, and the builder said at time of giving his price he said he would build her in 100 days not bad eh Again would like to thanks everyone for the likes and do appreciate all the comments Regards Richard

Another superb update Keith, have been told I am bonkers for doing the small details but now I can say there are a lot more of us well done it is a pleasure to see. Regards Richard

Starting on making the steering linkage system, I pinned and glued a piece of rod to the rudder then drilled a hole through the deck, then cut it down to size as per drawing provided. Made a jig so that I could build the linkage off the model, made the same size rod and glued it to the same angle Started with the bracket which went on the rudder shaft, machined the collar then machined two half circles 180 deg apart so that I could solder two small tubes for the connection arms Did not use the first shaft I made because the nuts were to big so threaded some brass with a 1/16"-60 Whit die, threaded both parts but I know one needed to be a left hand thread and I didn't have one. Then made the top shaft connection bracket, started with a 1" long piece of round brass, then taking another piece of the same size brass machined one of the side connection with the step, filed so that it would fit the round brass, for the other side I drilled a hole and inserted a piece of brass rod then soldered both parts, put it in the lathe and drilled and then taped with the same size 1/16"-60 Whit after that I saw cut to the size as per drawing. Arms for the lower part were up next used .010" brass sheared to size, drill holes then made a spacer and soldered together then carefully bent them to shape, made the bottom shaft connection same as top except there are two step side pieces and also I did not tap. Last thing was to make the top link arm using .010" brass, shear to size, drill and filing to shape and the back bracket So now to put all pieces together I like to see how parts work and then build them in miniature, it was fun to make next up will be to install onto the rudder shaft. Regards Richard

Got this to come Mark so will be watching. good start, you might have said what glue are you using CA? Regards Richard

Great progress Dennis she is looking mighty fine 👍 Regards Richard

This is different Justin will follow your build. Regards Richard

Another fantastic post Geert 👍 Regards Richard

I agree with Michael above 👍 Regards Richard

Nice start James 👍 Regards Richard

Thank you Joe wheel came out just as I wanted it, kit supplied wheel wasn't going to cut it sorry to say. Thanks Dave she is looking more like the beautiful schooner that she is Hi Dave thanks for looking in and your question, if you look at post #83 you will see it is a mooring chock and did have a detail on the drawing to add, regarding if this should have a metal lip I cannot find any info, you will see I saw a lip on a picture and carved them out of boxwood and installed, I am sure these were for rope only and would have been used to then tie to the Quarter Bitts (bollards) but then you see in the picture they did not use the mooring chock. Here is the detail, still have to add the rings Regards Richard

Wheel house was next, followed the drawings provided also found a picture on the web and in a book I bought showing the same as the drawing provided, date of pictures where of the Bluenose when she was sold in 1946, again made all parts from Boxwood, pictures are to help with my build if not allowed please remove thanks. Cut the four sides but before putting together machined a .030" ball for the groove should have done two small grooves but did not have a .10" mill, then I made the lid Made the coaming for the bottom and as the picture rounded the edge on the top, also put the chamfer on the front edges Cut the slot for the wheel shaft and beveled the edges front and back to the lid, got to make those small hold clips the groove is a little to close the the coaming but I will leave it as is. Here is a picture of the steering wheel which came with the kit, it didn't look the greatest so looking at the drawing supplied I decided to machine my own, drawing scale was 3/8" = 1'-0" and it gave a nice drawing of the shaft and linkage I thought why not have a go making all parts. found another picture on the web (of Bluenose 11) which gave me another view on how it went together. Started by machining the rim (which in the real world was cast) in the lathe and machine the first face leaving some material so that once I parted off I could turn it around and machine the other side, then it was in the mill so that I could drill the holes for the spokes, drilled the holes bigger than the spoke so I could add tubing two times the size of the spoke, then parted it of in the mill with the table/chuck laying down The largest tubes I soldered to the rim Machined the hub and drilled 8 holes, cut some small tube which will go on the hub, then made a jig so that I could solder all parts together without it moving, picture does not show the small tube by hub Did make the shaft using small bolts and tube Here it is after soldering needs to be cleaned up Next up was to make the handles out of boxwood, I took a 1/4" tool steel and ground the shape On the drawing by the steering house there was a unidentified round object so made that out of apple, made a lid to go on top Thanks a lot for the comments and the likes Regards Richard

Will be following your build just wondering if you would ever sell your drawings 🤔 Regards Richard

Isn’t it great when machining comes an art, lovely job you are doing 👍👌 Where does someone buy these small buttons? Regards Richard

Nice work on the deckhouse Keith but you say " at scale size these are quite small and I won't be making hinges " I was looking forward to see how you would have tackled them. Regards Richard

Very nice details Dave, Just wondering which Bluenose are you making the original one or Bluenose 11, I see the two pictures of the steering housing above are of the Bluenose 11 Regards Richard

Thank you very much Keith I am really enjoying building this great schooner but trying to find more pictures is getting harder. Regards Richard

Brilliant model Geert just a question do you make your own rope? 👍 Regards Richard

Very nice small detailed parts Keith, totally brings out the model wow 👍 Regards Richard

Carrying on with the cabin I was looking at the drawing to see what smoke stack to use and I noticed it said the bent pipe may have been used when Bluenose was racing, so I look at another book I have bought which is for the Bluenose 11 by LB Jenson (great book) and in it there is a page for the original Bluenose which shows it with a Liverpool Head here is a picture if this is not allowed to be shown please delete so went on the web to see what a Liverpool head looks like. I scale the drawing approx and here is my take on a Liverpool Head, started with smoke pipe and made connection plate to top of cabin Then took a piece of tube three sizes bigger and machined four slots in the 0, 90, 180 and 270 deg then cut two small piece to fit inside the part I machined then two more to fit inside the small pieces to get the size all these parts were soldered together. Got the gap I was looking for from the slot to the inside pipe Then machined the head and cut two more thin pieces of tube to go on the outside of smoke stack and soldered all parts together Will paint it sliver Thanks everyone for your likes and again thanks to everyone who has commented. Regards Richard

Thanks for your post Michael totally agree with you, they are about as small as I want to go for hinges but did get them to work, the pins will be made again. Thanks Dave do appreciate your comment Steal away this is why I am showing how I made my parts, you can make all items with hand tools as I see on this site, but I do like the machines I have, was taught how to use them in the 70's and love the results that come from them Forgot to add did add the wide board along the entire edge P/S this was used for cutting bait while fishing. Regards Richard