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Posts posted by WalrusGuy

  1. After finishing a couple more carronades, I think I got the process down for the tackles. Since I did not explain before, here it is:


    First, a simple overhand knot secures the line on the first block, then the thread is inserted into the other block using a needle threader, and back to the first block. I did some experimenting to find the right length of the tackle + coil. I found that having a coil of around 80mm was a good size, and needed a bit of extra thread for the rigging part. The extra thread length was longer for the tackle pair used to swivel the gun (30mm) than the pair to adjust the distance from bulwarks (15mm). For the coil I briefly soaked the 80mm end in some diluted white glue and twirled it around a pin sandwiched between two hard clear plastic sheets (which I got from a spinach container 😁). Here is an image that probably explains the lengths better:


    Here are some progress photos of where I have reached (25% done)



  2. 4 hours ago, Bill Gormley said:

    What beautiful work - I could look at the photos of the hull all day.  I'm seriously challenged when it comes to tying knots so I'm eager to see what (and how) you do.


    3 hours ago, NovaStorm said:

    Those breach lines are outstanding!

    Thank you for the compliments!! I also struggle a lot with knots and it took quite a few tries before I was happy with the results

  3. All breech lines are finally complete and have been installed on the carronades.


    Here is a close up photo of the knot I used: 



    The distance between the hooks that I used was 52mm. I don't think I explained the process I used to attach them to the guns, so here is what I did: 


    After measuring the 52mm, I made the knot in that side and seized it with the small thread. 


    This was done for all the guns. Here are some follow up photos with all the carronades glued to the deck: 
















    Next I'll be working on the tackles. This might also take a while 😅 

  4. 16 minutes ago, Redshadowrider said:

    Can you point me to where I can find these pieces?  I have found the site for obtaining the carronades.  I am in the process of making a decision on buying them.  After all it is my first build and while it may be the way to go, I have a lot to learn.

    Sure! They are available from Syren Ship Model Company linked below: 


  5. 1 minute ago, Redshadowrider said:

    In the video, I just envision trying to separate the pieces by using the xacto knife as bending at least one corner on every copper plate.  

    Congrats on your first grandson!!! 


    That did happen during my first tries, but if you get the blade right between the strip and backing with a sliding motion, there is no crease whatsoever. And if a tiny crease did happen, it would be hidden away by the overlap of the next plate 😁



  6. I made a video on this yesterday! I hope this helps you out. There will be minimal creases in the copper plate if you follow this method:



    It takes a while to get used to that method.

    Also wear gloves when working with plates!! I was just lazy to wear gloves in the example video. If you work barehanded, fingerprints will show up when it ages.



    The instructions for the Syren Brig model ship are excellent, you can view the copper plating instructions here:


    You basically start from the stern at the keel and work towards the bow and up



    And for the jig to stamp the copper plates here:



    Here is how my copper plating turned out after I followed the Syren instructions:







  7. Another small update, just received more goodies from Syren Ship Company! So for now I've received all the items I need to get the ship done. 




    So for anyone keeping track, I'm replacing the following kit items with Chuck's: 

    1) all the ropes

    2) all blocks except for the dead eyes and the small 3/32" single blocks 

    3) steering wheel (15/16")


    Also bought the serving machine in case it comes useful down the road 

  8. 18 hours ago, Overworked724 said:

    I would REALLY love to hear how other folks did their coppering. 

    K so I don't think its easy to explain with words and pics without overcomplicating the process, so I took a video instead 😄


    (Let me know if you are unable to see it from that link and I'll try uploading it differently)

    Also wear gloves when doing it, I was just lazy to grab gloves for the example video, but if you touch it without gloves, fingerprints will come up.

    Hope this is sufficient


    P.S. it has been a while since I did the coppering, so its not perfect, but after 10 or so tries of this method I think you can get the hang of it.


    Coming to think of it, if the video works on your end, I may put such GIFs in my future posts to explain tricky processes better 😁

  9. 1 minute ago, Overworked724 said:

    @WalrusGuyActually, the entire hull is basswood. I’m just done ever using basswood again. 😊 I’ll try to find some sealer. 

    Oh yea I forgot you used basswood for the hidden stuff. That's really smart and I may do something like that if next time I get that wood again in a kit. 


    Also, if I haven't mentioned it before, the hull is looking gorgeous!! 

  10. 3 hours ago, Overworked724 said:

    I keep rubbing the hull like it’s some erotic fetish...

    This made me lol 😂😂 I did this too and the thought did come every now and then 


    3 hours ago, Overworked724 said:

    I guess the only question is whether I should coat the hull with a wipe on poly or base coat of primer to help adhesion of the copper plates. Not sure. Anyone got some advice?

    I used Minwax Sanding Sealer for mine and it sealed all the wood pores of the basswood nicely. Not sure how it'll work with boxwood though. 

  11. I think I found the one I like the most 😁 

    Right now the rope appears a bit floaty, but it'll will glued to the deck later on. 










    To make it I attached the pins to crocodile clips and pulled the threads when I made the knot so it has the more distinct shape used in real ships. I used CA to "lock" it in place, both on the knot itself and and the section after it where it is seized by the smaller thread 




    As always, any comments or suggestions for improvements are most welcome!! 

  12. 12 hours ago, niwotwill said:

    Here is another photo that may help it is of the US Brig Niagara





    Stay well and safe


    Will  :pirate41:


    12 hours ago, NovaStorm said:

    I find it amazing what a thin little plate of steel holds that huge carronade onto the sled. 

    Amazing job you are doing Wally! Looking forward to seeing more :) 

    Thanks Will and Robin. I never knew there's so many ways to approach this. I guess that's what makes each model unique in their own way. 

  13. 1 hour ago, Justin P. said:

    Its looking really great, I very much like how the carronades turned out.  Lots of clean details, my favorite.  

    Thanks Justin! Can't wait for the next chapter for all the other deck details!! 


    1 hour ago, Gahm said:

    I hope this helps.

    This helps so much! The reference photos are very helpful. Thanks Thomas. I think I might follow the method you used. I'll set up another test line to see how it compares. Thanks again!! 


    41 minutes ago, David W K said:

    How do I set up a build log?

    In the case for the Syren, click on "start new topic" in the 1801-1850 section of "Build logs for ship model kits" forum. Before doing so check out this link to see more detailed instructions in starting and naming your log: 


  14. I set up a test breech line on one of the carronades. Wanted some advice before I make 15 more 😁


    First, I used this string for seizing the eye and the lower part of the breech line. For the method I followed Dubz steps detailed here 




    After about of an hour's work, I dry fitted the assembly of the carronades together with the breech line on the deck: 









    So wanted some advice before proceeding (since this is the first time I'm rigging a carronade):

    1) are the breech lines too short? Do they need to touch the decking? 

    2) does the seizing look ok? I noticed other builders had much smaller end links (not sure what to call it, but the overhang after the eyebolt). I've attached Thomas Gahm's photo below for a comparison of a shorter one: 


    Which method is more accurate? Or were either of these two seizing methods used at the time? 

    3) is there anything else I should be aware of or need to fix? 


    After looking at Thomas's one, I am thinking of following his for the carronades, then using Dirk's technique for the guns at the stern. 

  15. 23 hours ago, niwotwill said:

    I just read through your log again to refresh my memory and now i'm more impressed by your work, its looking fantastic. I now have a target for mine to achieve.


    Stay safe and well

    Will  :pirate41:


    Good luck in grad school, it'll be a breeze based on the Syren. One of my daughters is getting her masters degree in biomedical engineering so I can relate to what your grad school will entail.

    Thank you for the amazing compliments and good wishes Will! My master's degree is in mechanical engineering, so similar to your daughter's field. So far it's been rough (and it's only been a couple of weeks 😅). Things are getting slightly better though, but let's see 


    17 hours ago, abelson said:

    Thanks. Nice work on the rings.

    Thanks Abelson!! 


    2 hours ago, David W K said:

    I am also building the US Brig Syren from MS for the second time since the first one was destroyed by a tornado a few yrs ago, was not able to finish. Your off to a great start and I am taking notes from you, I had trouble with my gun ports.

    I'm so sorry to hear that, I can't ever imagine going through something like that..


    If you get a build log set up I'll be more than happy to follow along! 

  16. On 9/15/2020 at 4:09 AM, NovaStorm said:

    You are doing some great work and moving right along nicely :) 


    8 hours ago, egkb said:

    Just catching you up .. Yup! as NovaStorm above said Great Work Mate!  (Possibly a wee tidy up on that Hawse Hole though ..  First Photo Above, Macro really shows things that aren't ordinarily visible to the eye)


    All The Very Best Bud 




    (Sorry for not commenting more often but hectic here at the moment, even Ballahoo has taken a back seat :) )

    Thank you Robin and Eamonn for the great comments 🙂


    I think the inboard side of the hawse holes will be detailed later so I haven't touched it yet. But you're right, I should clean it up so photos look better 😁

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