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WalrusGuy

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  1. WalrusGuy
    Many thanks for the nice words Steven and Will. Thanks all for the likes as well! 🙂 I used 0.008in rope for the ratlines. I bought them from Chuck before he stopped selling his ropes, which were all prewaxed with beeswax. The clove hitches make the rope hang naturally. I used aliphatic resin wood glue diluted with water for the ends of the ratlines. Hope this answers your questions!
  2. WalrusGuy
    Thanks so much for the nice comments @Justin P. and @desalgu!! Really looking forward to seeing your model in the display case, David. I finished the ratlines today, I found that the ones on the shrouds close to each other came a bit loose. It's only visible if I really look for it (or when taking close up shots), so I think I'll leave it as is. Tightening them caused some issues when finishing them off on the foremost shroud... Anyways, here are a bunch of photos to mark this milestone of the build: I also finished working on @Chuck's ropewalk. The cherry wood is just beautiful, and really glows once tung oil is applied. I applied two coats of tung oil, and took my time in assembling them when I got fatigued from working on the ratlines:
  3. WalrusGuy
    Congrats Mark! She's a beauty!! 🙂
  4. WalrusGuy
    Nice progress on the plates! There's no need for stealers, it's just that the plans are 2D so the shapes of the plates look different in the curved section. I applied the plates just following the hull with the same overlap distance. The last line of plates will follow the waterline and will neaten things up. Check out my post linked here for the plate layout
  5. WalrusGuy
    The framing looks really good! I'll be sure to use chisels next time. I remember I spent hours sanding them to shape
  6. WalrusGuy
    Small ratline update: I finished installing all the ratlines on the portside, and neatened the lower foremast ones. I am really enjoying this stuff 😄 Tightening the clove hitches is somehow really satisfying!! And after making the first couple of the lines, it's become second nature and I can do them really quickly. That's how I managed one whole side in just two evenings. When gluing the outer ones I took my time to straighten them out and carefully snipped the end once it's dried Here are some pics: .
  7. WalrusGuy
    Yeaup many knots... 😦, it didn't seem like much until I put the printed papers behind the shrouds. I plan to space it out a bit by working on the ropewalk I got earlier from Chuck.
  8. WalrusGuy
    Thanks for the motivating comments Patrick and Michael! I'll start rattling down in a couple of days. In the meantime I printed the lines spaced 0.21" from each other (using the table spacing feature on Word) I plan to tie every 5 to 10 ratlines first to help prevent the hourglass shape when tying them. Also, at first I planned to do the proper technique at the end shrouds (eye spliced lines), but after seeing how many I need to make I quickly changed my mind. I am now thinking of just following what Chuck did for his Cheerful build by tying simple square knots on the end shrouds.
  9. WalrusGuy
    Thank you for taking the time to explain, Michael. The schematic also helps me to understand clearly 🙂
  10. WalrusGuy
    Thank you so much for writing up such a detailed log. I never knew on how powerful a jeweler's saw can be. Are you using the same blades as the ones to cut wood? Or are they completely different for metalwork?
  11. WalrusGuy
    Great start!
  12. WalrusGuy
    Great progress! If they come loose, you may want to peg them with some wires then insert into predrilled holes on the hull. Here's what I did in my build:
  13. WalrusGuy
    Thank you Thomas! I also can't wait to see what magic you do with the rigging! 😀 I finished repeating the entire process for the topmasts. Now the model is ready for the ratlines. I'm equally nervous and excited for this step. I'll be sure to take my time with it. Anyways... here are some pics: I guess after ratlines are done, the rest of the standing rigging will progress through fairly quickly. I'm really looking forward to how she'll look at the end of this chapter. 😄
  14. WalrusGuy
    Just beautiful.... Really inspiring work, Dali
  15. WalrusGuy
    Thank you Justin! While working on the top mast pendants and shrouds, I realized I forgot to install the two eye bolts aft of the foremast. I'm glad I caught this early on than later with many more ropes in place. I installed them without too much trouble, but had to navigate a bit with the shrouds and stays coming on the way. So for anyone who is following along while building the Syren, don't forget these two!!
  16. WalrusGuy
    Thanks David. Hearing that makes me feel more confident for doing the ratlines. It was really tricky rigging the catharpins. I just used tweezers and required a lot of patience. I had to take a couple hours break when doing the first one since it was very frustrating and I was almost going to give up... but then something just clicked the rest were much easier, I was able to do them in just a few minutes. For planking, another trick is to precut the planks to the correct shape. I did this for the jolly boat following the outline for the enlarged drawings of the Master Korabel kit. It would require more planning to get the right shape, so maybe the edge wise bending would be the best bet. For my next build (Confederacy), I'll try the edgewise bending.
  17. WalrusGuy
    Thanks so much for the great comments and likes!! I finished with the sheer poles, futtock staves, futtock shrouds, and lower catharpins. For the staves and sheer poles I followed what Ed did in his YA build. I opted to go for the harder route for the catharpins where it was lashed in two parts of the shrouds. The first one was tricky then I got the hang of it. I first fully served them with an eye splice on each side, then tied them around the stave with a normal knot. There was a lot of adjustment needed to make sure it is centered and also tensioned properly. When cutting the thread the knot is barely visible. Here are some pics! I am thinking of finishing up the fore and main top mast shrouds, so I can do the ratlines all at once. This is another item I am very nervous about...
  18. WalrusGuy
    Beautiful!!
  19. WalrusGuy
    Very nice and clean! 🙂
  20. WalrusGuy
    Thanks Robert! I am using 100wt sized thread for the serving. It almost looks as thin as hair. I bought mine from Red Rock Threads. The exact one I am using is linked below (color: dark brown #7029 to match the rope color): https://redrockthreads.com/superior-thread/superior-microquilt.asp
  21. WalrusGuy
    I finished repeating the process for the fore mast. The shrouds at the mast top came out better this time around i think because of all the practice I got.. 😄 I'll let the photos do the talking
  22. WalrusGuy
    Ohh I tried serving it without the glue, that may explain the harder time I had 😅. I'll for sure try it again next time Anyhow, I did some small deconstruction work on the main preventer stay to change the position of the mouse: Now I'll continue working on the foremast
  23. WalrusGuy
    Thanks Tom! I'm so glad my log can be useful. It just started out as a platform for me to ask questions and ask for feedback, but seeing that it helps others is really great!! I was actually looking at your log to see how you managed the mouse. I tried to follow suit but found it difficult to serve it since it was at an angle and the thread kept slipping. I may try this out again for future models! And thanks for the encouraging words!! I also keep looking back at your Ballahoo. It's a very clean and crisp build 🙂 I also found out from Dubz that the preventer stay mouse should be on the other side (so that both the mice alternate on the mast), so will do some small deconstruction before carrying on with the fore mast rigging 😄
  24. WalrusGuy
    I finished working on the main stays! I opted a simple representation of the mouse by carving out some wood . The weave seemed very hard to do at this small scale. Also seemed like the weave wouldn't show at 1/64 scale. The process is shown in the photos below. Next they were painted dark brown to match the thread color, and glued in position. An eyesplice was made on one end of the rope for it to thread through: The preventer stay was made next, and everything is now lashed on the respective hearts. Here is what she looks like now 😄 Next are the fore mast lower shrouds and stays
  25. WalrusGuy
    Thank you all for the great comments!! Really motivates me to do better 🙂 Thanks Desalgu! I just saw your finished Syren, she really is a beauty! A few months ago I did not know what serving was either, until I found out they were used to prevent wear on the lines from rubbing on each other and from the sails rubbing on them. I am using "Superior MicroQuilter 100wt Polyester Thread" and the color is "Dark Brown #7029" to match the rope color. I purchased a couple spools from from Red Rock Threads. And to serve it I am using the Syren Serv-o-Matic machine, but there are a few other brands that make serving machines as well (e.g. Domanoff and Byrnes). No worries! I have almost finished reading Vol 1 of the series, and have learnt so much already. I know I'll be using them a lot when I start to scratch build. You can enter your signature by following the posts on this link:

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