realworkingsailor
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Everything posted by realworkingsailor
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Actually.. the DCC thing is not as expensive as you may think... The NCE Powercab for about $200 is about all you'd need. (As long as the total current draw is less than 2 amps) http://www.ncedcc.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=3&category_id=1 That and if you happen to join a model railroad club using NCE, you can just take the throttle unit with you on club nights... Andy -
Didn't think that was cheating..... Anyway... Yeah, that's the Nordmeer. She ran aground in Northern Lake Huron in mid November 1966 (navigational error ). Efforts were made to get her off, and the crew stayed on board. 2 weeks later on November 29 a very bad storm struck, which put her in the condition you see here. She was declared a total constructive loss. Incidentally, that same storm was the one that sank the Daniel J Morell, with the loss of all but one crew member (Denis Hale). A coastguard boat that was removing crew from the Nordmeer was called away to assist looking for survivors of the other wreck. When I started sailing, there were still large parts of the Nordmeer visible above the water, but over the years, ice and waves have reduced her to fragments, and nothing is visible anymore. The last time I recall seeing any bit of her was some time around 2006 or so. Andy
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Sorry, Mike, don't quite follow... Anyway... this is what I was thinking: http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Literature/Decoders/HO_Scale/FL-Series/FL4.pdf t These are 4 function function-only decoders from TCS. That means they have up to 4 lighting outputs, at 12 volts each. Simply hardwire one of theses into a DCC system. As a bonus, if you're doing this to multiple ships, you can run bus wires to where ever you need them and control them all from one station. As you can see, there are many different lighting effects to choose from, including flickering. Note that any function can be reversed to go out of phase with another, in other words you can set up two lights to flicker with opposing periods of light and dark. Andy
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She hasn't moved from that location since that photo was taken.... At least, not in any horizontal direction....
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Very nice Augie Let the plinking begin in earnest. I mentioned it to Ben a while ago, but Polyscale has a whole range of acryic washes (if you can still find them) one of which is a "basswood" colour. It might be something to consider below the wales to mute some of the differences in tone on the various strips.... should the need arise. Just a thought Andy
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This one's not feeling too good.....
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I've often thought of using a DCC system to add lighting effects to a ship. I'm sure it would be fairly easy to wire in a function only decoder and be able to control lighting areas individually. It should also make flickering lights easy to do. Andy
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It's an exhaust gas scrubber... and there's one on my ship too........ BTW.. you ship is the MV Initial Salute http://www.shipspotting.com/gallery/photo.php?lid=1347053 Andy
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I'd just try and copy what you've got on the white plastic bits. With a little refinement, it should look perfectly acceptable. Really, any generic late 18th century scrollwork would look fine. Andy
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Looks good... if you're up for a challenge, why not try and carve that fancy moulding?
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If I recall correctly, I made mine to stick out about 5-6mm, just a little bit inside the edge of the stern fascia. As for the hull opening, it should be just for the main central window. Andy
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I've had to clear a fouled hawse once.... bad enough on a calm day in a river... never want to have to do that again....
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Paint job is looking great! You're really starting to get the hang of this model ship building thing Andy
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Thanks guys, for your support in this endeavour. It's all in the name of safety, Not just for ourselves, but how many out there have small children in the house, or grandkids that come to visit from time to time? I'm sure we're all very careful with not leaving chemicals like these lying around, but kids can get into the strangest places when they want to. Anyway, Someone brought up MEK, or Methyl-ethyl-ketone. A primary ingredient in many plastic cements. http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927358 Slightly different for Tenax7R: http://www.emedco.info/rtk/common/wcd00025/wcd02597.htm I've having a little difficulty locating one for Ambroid ProWeld. If anyone happens upon it, post the link. Andy
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Whether or not you choose to read the given information is ultimately up to you. I'm sure there are people here who never before gave a second thought to all the glues, paints and other solvents. Here's another one for you, Testors ELO paint remover: http://www.testors.com/media/document/MS.F522142.050911.pdf Another one off the Testors Website, Floquil Paint http://www.testors.com/media/document/MS.F110181.050911.pdf **Note that this is specific for each colour, in this case BNSF green. As each paint contains different pigment compounds, the MSDS will be slightly different for each. This is for Polyscale Acrylics: http://www.testors.com/media/document/MS.POLLYRR.062912.pdf **the same disclaimer to the above also applies. And finally, good old Dulcote: http://www.testors.com/media/document/MS.F130015.050911.pdf Testors has done a great job on their website by providing a pdf copy of the relevant MSDS linked below each product description. I still mutter at them for discontinuing Floquil and Polyscale..... Andy
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My focus was intended to be on the liquids and gels that go by various trade names, but for which precious little information beyond "harmful or fatal if swallowed" or other similar simplified warning labels are applied. Everybody is aware of the toxic hazards of lead, however those effects are cumulative over a long period of time. I'm trying to help people become aware of, or be able to have a compiled reference of common modeling chemicals, their known toxic effects and, the really important bit, personal protection and first aid when handling these substances, or in the event of something untoward occurring. Andy
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Everybody's Favourite: Cyanoacrylate http://www.loctiteproducts.com/msds/SG_L_TUBE_msds.pdf
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This came up in a build log, where I commented on the use of a certain product, and the hazards associated with it. Another member commented that he had used it many times before without experiencing any problems. It got me wondering how many people have actually bothered to find out all they could about some of the hazardous chemicals we expose ourselves to in the name of the hobby, and more importantly how to deal with the toxic effects of accidental ingestion, inhalation, or contact with skin. The product in the aforementioned post was Squadron Putty. So I went looking for it's MSDS (That would be the "Material Safety Data Sheet"). I don't know about Europe or the rest of the world, but in North America, as part of workplace safety, every chemical has to have one of these sheets (even the fuel we put in our vehicles has one). These sheets list all the properties of a substance, its chemical make up, toxicological effects, protective measures and first aid. Have a look: http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/msds/Squadron%20white%20putty%20msds.pdf Just a thought that maybe we could help to educate ourselves, and provide a resource for other modelers in helping them with questions about these chemicals. Make a list of links to MSDS sheets that we find online, with the ultimate goal of compiling and consolidating it into a single page of links. Andy
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Would these help: http://www.archertransfers.com/AR88091.html They go on just like decals, but on the primer. You then paint over them. There are other patterns you can choose from as well. http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html Andy
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I think that's the pawl for the windlass, you can see in the second photo, the two mounts for it. Andy
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I can help but wonder..... What's in all those boxes?! Model ship goodies?
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Personally I don't think it makes much of a difference, it just creates more work. Some people swear by the method, however. Andy
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I've used Squadron putty.... be damned careful with that stuff. (Sorry mods, I think that point needs to be made without euphemisms). The solvent is toluene which has all sorts of nasty effects.... not the least of which is finding yourself inadvertently higher than a kite.... Always use it in a very well ventilated space (forced air), and wear a respirator. Tamiya also makes a good filler that's a lot safer to use and doesn't produce as many toxic odours. Andy
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I think that's going to give more than a few people nightmares...
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Narrowing down the field for first ship model
realworkingsailor replied to Bill Hime's topic in Wood ship model kits
Hi Bill For a first model.. and since the Confederacy seems to be your favourite... why not try the Brig Syren first? A slightly smaller and simpler ship. Designed by the same person (our very own Chuck) so the kit goes together using much the same techniques. You may also wish to consider some of the Caldercraft or Amati offerings, like the cutters Sherbourne (CC) or Lady Nelson (Amati), both 1:64 In this hobby it often pays to start with smaller simpler vessels in the same interest range as the larger kits we often drool over. Since you're not putting out as much money, it's a lot less heartbreaking when things go south on you. But there's always everyone here to cheer you along and offer helpful advice and the like. Once you've got a kit or two under your belt, then go for that dream ship you've been wanting. All the experience and knowledge you've gained will really help you to make a model that will stand out. Hope that helps a bit. Andy
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