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realworkingsailor

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Everything posted by realworkingsailor

  1. Once again, I can't thank everyone enough. And every time I show up, there are more of you to thank. Such a great community here. Andy
  2. November 9 100th Anniversary of the great storm of 1913. In one afternoon, 12 ships where lost with all hands and another 30 where stranded. Over 250 sailors died in the freezing water. The twelve ships lost are as follows: Lake Superior: Leafield, 1892, 18 crew Henry B Smith, 1906, 25 crew Lake Michigan: Plymouth (barge), 1854, 7 crew Lake Huron: Argus, 1903, 28 crew James Carruthers,1913, 22 crew Hydrus, 1903, 25 crew James A McGean, 1908, 28 crew Charles S Price, 1910, 28 Crew Regina, 1907, 20 crew Isaac M. Scott, 1909, 28 crew Wexford, 1883, 17-24 crew (actual number unknown) Lake Erie: Lightship #82, 1912, 6 Crew For a full description of the storm see here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Lakes_Storm_of_1913 Andy
  3. Again, thanks to everyone for your messages of condolences. I had a long chat with my sister earlier today, and we spent a lot of time talking about our fondest memories from when we were kids. There's going to be a celebration of my grandfather's life later this month and I'm trying to figure out something to say. I've started put some ideas together, but nothing concrete yet. I'll figure something out. Andy
  4. Nice work on the spars, Sjors. And thank you and Anja for the PM this morning. Andy
  5. Thanks everyone for your thoughts and condolences. It's nice to have such a great group of people around here who truly care about each other. To be honest, there are times when I feel very much alone. Being able to see a few ships being built, and the great stories and laughs everyone has here helps a lot to make the distances shorter, and things a little easier. Once again, thank you all so very much. Andy
  6. Hello everyone Sorry if I'm not my usual happy fun time self lately. We've had a sudden and unexpected death in the family, and it's hit everyone rather hard. You folks are a pleasant distraction for me just being who you are. Please keep it up, it does help. I'm hoping to get an early relief off the ship and be home by the middle of November. Andy
  7. Well... I've been worried for quite some time.... Now I'm on to genuine concern..... Next step is outright paranoia.....
  8. Yeah... headrails.... everybody's favourite head-scratching, how-the-he** moment. Nice work you've done. Although... that second canon.... sorry to say.. but...uh.... he seems to be aiming a bit low...... Andy
  9. You think you guys are eagerly waiting my return... Just imagine how I feel anticipating my own return..... It's been a long year on the lakes and I can't wait to get home, take it easy and do the things I want to do...... Oh yeah... And actually sleep the whole night for once! Andy
  10. If it's not available at your local hobby shop, you can get it from Microscale: http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-2 http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-1&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=1 Andy
  11. Decals... Ok... First off have you got any microset and microsol? Both of those will go a long way to helping sett decals down on uneven surfaces. The other thing that helps is having a glossy surface on which to apply them. Don't worry, when everything is dry over coat with dullcote to seal them in and hide all the edges. First off, I use tepid water, not hot or cold. Dipping a decal in for about ten seconds is more than adequate. The the decal sit for another minute or so before you try to slide it off the paper backing. While the decal is sitting, apply a dab of microset to the area you want to apply the decal. Bring the decal (still on the paper at this time) to the area a d gently slide the decal off the paper into position. The decal should almost float in the microset (almost!). With a needle nose tweezer, carefully position the decal into place. You can now dab up any excess microset (along the edges). Gently press the decal to the plastic with a damp paper towel. When dry, apply microsol. The decal will wrinkle... It can be startling to see... But don't touch it!! It will settle down before too long as the microsol dries. When it does, take a very sharp #11 exacto knife blade and look for any bubbles that may be trapped underneath. Gently prick them with the knife and dab on some more microsol. Repeat this process until you are satisfied. Give everything a good 24 hours to dry thoroughly and over coat the decal with dullcote. This will seal and protect it from handling and damage. Andy
  12. Careful... you might become addicted... Looks great, stay warm...... -16 the first week of November....... brrrrrr Andy
  13. Thanks for stopping by and your compliments, Kimberly Lawrence, yeah.. I'm still at work. I've got about another month (25 days maybe) to go before hopefully I get to go home. And I'm still only sailing on the great lakes. Andy
  14. More pics! That should keep your critics silent.... Or make them talk more... hrm..... Andy
  15. Pictures!! Woo Hoo! Although... your Lion figurehead seems a little sticky-outy.... should he not be resting against the bracket behind him? (Or is he just sitting there for looks?) Andy
  16. Actually.. the DCC thing is not as expensive as you may think... The NCE Powercab for about $200 is about all you'd need. (As long as the total current draw is less than 2 amps) http://www.ncedcc.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=3&category_id=1 That and if you happen to join a model railroad club using NCE, you can just take the throttle unit with you on club nights... Andy
  17. Didn't think that was cheating..... Anyway... Yeah, that's the Nordmeer. She ran aground in Northern Lake Huron in mid November 1966 (navigational error ). Efforts were made to get her off, and the crew stayed on board. 2 weeks later on November 29 a very bad storm struck, which put her in the condition you see here. She was declared a total constructive loss. Incidentally, that same storm was the one that sank the Daniel J Morell, with the loss of all but one crew member (Denis Hale). A coastguard boat that was removing crew from the Nordmeer was called away to assist looking for survivors of the other wreck. When I started sailing, there were still large parts of the Nordmeer visible above the water, but over the years, ice and waves have reduced her to fragments, and nothing is visible anymore. The last time I recall seeing any bit of her was some time around 2006 or so. Andy
  18. Sorry, Mike, don't quite follow... Anyway... this is what I was thinking: http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Literature/Decoders/HO_Scale/FL-Series/FL4.pdf t These are 4 function function-only decoders from TCS. That means they have up to 4 lighting outputs, at 12 volts each. Simply hardwire one of theses into a DCC system. As a bonus, if you're doing this to multiple ships, you can run bus wires to where ever you need them and control them all from one station. As you can see, there are many different lighting effects to choose from, including flickering. Note that any function can be reversed to go out of phase with another, in other words you can set up two lights to flicker with opposing periods of light and dark. Andy
  19. She hasn't moved from that location since that photo was taken.... At least, not in any horizontal direction....
  20. Very nice Augie Let the plinking begin in earnest. I mentioned it to Ben a while ago, but Polyscale has a whole range of acryic washes (if you can still find them) one of which is a "basswood" colour. It might be something to consider below the wales to mute some of the differences in tone on the various strips.... should the need arise. Just a thought Andy
  21. This one's not feeling too good.....
  22. I've often thought of using a DCC system to add lighting effects to a ship. I'm sure it would be fairly easy to wire in a function only decoder and be able to control lighting areas individually. It should also make flickering lights easy to do. Andy
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