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Mirabell61

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Posts posted by Mirabell61

  1. Update

     

    for the rounded areas I found a solution. It`s going to be a mix of planking (forecastle), and balsa fillers combined with brass curved sheet plate

     

    Nils

    DSCI0064.thumb.JPG.ec1343aa0034df7d047c0e2a92fe10e3.JPG

    in the narrow roundings I used 3mm wide strips, in the more flat areas 8mm and 10mm strips

    DSCI0068.thumb.JPG.2495204b2348eb00db6720e0a7e43a0c.JPG

    there is a supporting framework installed

    DSCI0066.thumb.JPG.1e11ae0d8f45e03303eb75f91c6c80d3.JPG

    for the poop 5 stacks of balsa  combined with with a brass sheet part

     

  2.  

    Update

     

    today the deck beams were installed, and the overstanding upper frameportions cut off.

    I also received the steel concave shield 21,3mm diam. of the mushroom anchor, for soldering on the anchorshaft

     

    Nils

    DSCI0051.thumb.JPG.b07d59f1645f92c5f1f1fc3e2d415f18.JPG

    the deckbeams for forecastle and the main deck are on

    DSCI0052.thumb.JPG.9ca1f8ab77c2d4c3fdd6feac004b1dd7.JPG

     

    DSCI0053.thumb.JPG.2d5d4d637695f94fec9ceee838a207ce.JPG

    this is a pressed and cut out steel round 21,3mm Diam.

     

     

     

  3. Thank you very much Ken,

    yes, I think that is also one reason why a few light-ships were tranformed into 3 mast sailing barks, after they were taken out of duty.

    the "Alexander von Humboldt" was built as a German lightship, with birthname "Reserve Sonderborg", in 1906 and later transformed to the well known 3 mast bark with the green sails

     

    Nils

    Download(2).jpg.9b6085a184a783d446cc7502308030f4.jpg

    Alexander von Humboldt (former lightship)

     

  4. Update.

     

    Today I took her (cut) off the build platform, and had my first look into the hull, am pleased with it so far.

    Outside against the bow-post and the side skin I installed the integrated round pod that later on takes up the mushroom typ anchor, (3 tons in real weight).

    Its the first time she settles on her own standplate

     

    Nils

     

    DSCI0041.thumb.JPG.f93b28b38d691d57160b4521a6ca21b9.JPG

    the pod for the mushroom anchor later on. It faces downwards to a certain angle and ends a bit above the waterline

    DSCI0043.thumb.JPG.1387843ffac3279b370a84286877d5f3.JPG

    its made from 20mm round beechwood. The face is light convex, as it fits neatly into the concave shape anchor

    DSCI0044.thumb.JPG.688ab4665b81b49add7454b05a46cac5.JPG

    the overstanding upper frames will be cut off

    DSCI0046.thumb.JPG.28930b34c48332cebb8034fba291f5f4.JPG

    a sight into the hull

    DSCI0047.thumb.JPG.c390182f474eb8696b26f8408775d750.JPG

    here to be seen one of the spindle counter nuts, and the resting foot lug for the light towers stand tube. This is also why I built in the squarebar on the topside of the keel

     

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    DSCI0050.thumb.JPG.281d4046d650c4efb73c3b6a5a0a4dda.JPG

    the shining through narrow plank gaps are filled with white cured wood glue. the hull at this degree of building is extreme light

     

  5. Update

    did some more scraping on the hull, also built in the prop and the rudder

     

    Nils

    DSCI0034.thumb.JPG.7823931c8e3195eab541f9c56333cb9b.JPG

    the scraping method is a very good way to take off a minimum of the planks thickness. I use 3 different scraping sharp edged  blades

    DSCI0033.thumb.JPG.9d9753ad93af8de817f56252b672a800.JPG

    the scraping chips are are very thin. The advantage vs. sanding is : no dust created

    DSCI0035.thumb.JPG.52226c50e8512bd8166b7136bf3f68af.JPG

    the rudder is made and soldered from brass sheet The gap in the stempost is closed now

    DSCI0037.thumb.JPG.85fca352ec69d8fcfa4584bbf5f363d4.JPG

    the rudder is fully workable, but it now ca`nt be removed any more unless desoldering

    DSCI0039.thumb.JPG.d29cfcd10e12a879d7bc3827ec731708.JPG

    I fixed a metal edge to the keel and the stem in order to give more solid hold

     

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    The preliminary pencil-waterline is marked up

     

     

  6. Update

     

    all stb. planks are on now except for the bulwarks. On the port side there are still two planks to be placed in the keel area. The planks are scraped and sanded. A few touch ups with filler in the aft area are neccessary. Aft the prop is preliminary mounted. I had to cut out the stem, because I had forgotten to insert the prop-rod into the shaft. Will close the gap later on. There are only very few touch-ups required. Before the bulwarks are done I have to do and plank  the deck.

     

    Nils

    DSCI0030.thumb.JPG.a3bbd90aead31dbd3bebfbe93d198f80.JPG

    waiting for doing the rudder assemly

     

    DSCI0031.thumb.JPG.8b984e66d08e925481f58ee9007e830d.JPG

    I`m pleased with the planking, ten planks on the sides so far, all worked out like it should be. The forecastle sides must still be planked. There are two little outcuts in the keel-lne where the stand`s spindles will go through Later on

     

    DSCI0032.thumb.JPG.fa00f65425d96d1392f6d3b2c6641ca1.JPG

    The one-layer planking is smooth and true shape with the frames. The hull is strong and sturdy and very light, no warping to be seen

     

  7. Hello Uwe,

    many thanks for your suggestion in cutting out a bit of mesh from household articles...

    I had "Fliegengitter, Teesieb. etc." in mind first of all anyhow, but that would have required a round U-profile rail on the bottom side of the platform as well as an upside down U-rail on the top side  as to make a sort of a framework fot inserting the mesh. I was afraid that bringing in too much heat into the construction and that already placed soldering points would open uncontrolled. 

    Yes I`ve been applying the vertical stern planking already on my other models, and it works well. I intend to bend the bumper-rails from halfround brass profile, at least in the rounding areas and the remaining side rails will be from same sized halfround wooden shape.

     

    Nils

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