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Mirabell61

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Posts posted by Mirabell61

  1. Hi Levebvre,

    the display capacity in my hobby office is exhausted for a longer time ago already. Because I favor a glas-casing for permanent  dust  protection, it takes even more space every time.

    Three ships have now already moved to our attic room office for this reason. My wife does not like shipmodels in the living areas of our home, and I have accepted that wish., so the lightship is probably  the last one built in my shipyard. Perhaps there comes an oppertunity for selling the one or other some day for a fair price.

     

    Nils

  2. Hi and thank you Gary,

    many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.

    Here for example, I started with the plating today.

    New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal 

    The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.

    The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results

     

    Nils

    DSCI0111.thumb.JPG.f54b3375f2848c97a9e34702355cac1e.JPG

    starting with the trick part

    DSCI0112.thumb.JPG.aaca999d1a4a7dcb344e35108a1c097d.JPG

    in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.

     

     

    DSCI0113.thumb.JPG.a28fd42fae3df8843dd8ecd29b5f658a.JPG

    a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on

     

    DSCI0114.thumb.JPG.466730f9abbab50e32c002b3c1d2411e.JPG

    10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on

  3. many thanks Richard and John,

     

    Richard, the lightmast, still to be finished, was not so easy as I had thought .....

     

    John, I`ll do my best for the further build ....

     

    Yesterday I made a first dummy trial for painting, plating,  attaching of an obsolete 20 mm high letter. The bright light red color is RAL 2026 in silk-gloss, that is the one used on german fire-brigade and civil rescue vehicles.

     

    Nils

     

    DSCI0110.thumb.JPG.19de4559766cf7009f19df4f04668332.JPG

    I am a bit suspicious about the permanent sticking quality of the letters on a structured plating background. In the moment it seems to work ....

    The black sub waterline color is a silicone based black thermo-coating paint used for oventubes, etc.

     

  4. Update

     

    Hull is all smoothened out and aft rounding rails (brass halfround) are mounted. The other rails will be from halfround nutwood strips.

    All is ready for metal plating now. Am preparing for railings, starting with forecastle deck. First dry fit for foremast and lightmasttower

     

    Nils

     

    DSCI0095.thumb.JPG.d2249c7a8344753a42359dbbbdf3441a.JPG

    rounding rails fitted. These are bent to shape, so that there is hardly no stress for springback when glueing on, also to avoid messing with the glue (CA)

     

    DSCI0096.thumb.JPG.6895bc44457d9f151b305a78e52783d4.JPG

    a bit of wood filler will do to smoothen curves

     

    DSCI0098.thumb.JPG.d7a87fb94e0d76fd135ec0dab22a7904.JPG

     

     

    DSCI0101.thumb.JPG.6d1a14fdeff94ca492bbdac12fcd8f07.JPG

    masts in dryfit

     

    DSCI0100.thumb.JPG.197ac13e6510ddacc56f1c9b58a82c1c.JPG

    checking railing hight, the railing for the forecastle is a special bit ( 400mm length ) I found on the web, as the last available piece. It is of chemical etching and the brass has 0,6mm thickness, that appr. twice the thickness as I used on my Ergenstrasse rails. Unfortunately the source company does not exist any more, what a pitty. This railing type can be inserted into prior drilled holes of 0,8mm diam, and the hight of the top line therefore adjusted to the required hight, I will solder on mini washers as stopper  on to the fastening posts, so that the chosen hight can be permanently fixed for 1:87 H0 figurines after glueing in.

     

    DSCI0108.thumb.JPG.d8b07e658af3031721c20e6d5bd94516.JPG

    I wish I could get more of this railing type Here a dummy with the desired hight

     

    DSCI0103.thumb.JPG.2a018a210b4f0193447d12554f5471e6.JPG

    here are the fist two templates for the aft round metal plating

     

  5. Thank you Keith,

     

    the Elbe 1 is equiped with an old U-boot diesel motor of 650 PS for propulsion. I fitted a 4-blade prop (like shown in the Plan, although I see a 3-Blade one in one of the dry dock pics. The 4-blade in 20 diam. brass with M3 hub looks better to my eyes.

     

    Here a few details I made yesterday ......

     

    Nils

    DSCI0088.thumb.JPG.c326d757be69e1ef290dbf0c2a8b6424.JPG

    the stb. side anchorshaft

    DSCI0090.thumb.JPG.1a465477b0491d0c90947696f8978178.JPG

    inside of the shaft blackened

    DSCI0080.thumb.JPG.5751cb873a7747632d8681c0210b9b89.JPG

    fitting of the anchor fairlead

    DSCI0081.thumb.JPG.16c968a7882fb5801213da52a97089ac.JPG

    anchor dryfit, (40 mm long anchor with with slip in shaft )

    DSCI0089.thumb.JPG.4f331993ae3652a1c95603beb6e1a282.JPG

    this is the deck- level support and guide for the 13mm tube of the lighttower. The lower 13mm socket is fixed to the squarebar obove the keel

    DSCI0094.thumb.JPG.2898f6a58d97288565d5f2cc613397e7.JPG

    this takes up the lower socket for the foremast, the deck will also be equipped with a reinforcement at the point of going through. Here the stong "backbone" , (directly over the keel) which also takes uo the spindle press-in nuts can be seen

     

     

     

  6. Update 

    Preliminary check :

    I made a black dummy for the white lettering on the later bright red hull. On the plan there are shown 20mm high letters. I will purchase  them from very thin white selfadhesive foil.

    There are three criteria to fulfill:

     

    1) a halfround bumper rail on hight of the main deck will  be horizontaly fitted to the hull, whereby the rail needs to run exactly on mid hight of the letters (letters E + B ), or slghtly below it.

        Hopefully the foil of the letters will follow and remain sticking tight to the area around the rail without partially lifting off.

     

    2) the horizontal line for the portholes, in adequate distance beneath the deckline, has to lay horizontaly exactly in the lower blanc spaces of letters E + B

     

    3) the drill holes for the portholes have to be clear of the hulls frames in those areas (This also mirrored for the other side of the hull)

     

    Nils

    DSCI0086.thumb.JPG.f067c94a362effc6c002988ead8c2670.JPG

    Dummy with 20mm high letters

    The outside diameter of the silicone glassed brass portholes will be 6mm, these have to be fitted into the hull without cutting away the broadness of the  lettering too much

     

     

     

  7. many thanks Roel and John,

     

    Roel,

    I think you are right asuming that the mushroom anchor is not regularily hoisted.

     

    John,

    that was my thought also, but I remembered the dry dock pic proving me mistake ....

    perhaps the constructors were not expecting "knots" in that chain causing possible chain break in stress situations

     

    Nils

  8. Many thanks for your comment input here Joachim,

    and welcome to the build.

    I looked up the version of the anchor chains when I got started. The mushroom anchor chain does not have these studs, but the stationary at the bow side Hall anchor indeed has a stud-chain.

    Fortunately the autor (model builder Helmut Thomas) shot some photos of these details, in real in the dry dock,  to be seen on the enlosed pics

    Regards from Glinde to Westerwald

     

    Nils

     

     

     

    DSCI0084.thumb.JPG.76f778f53e58aef29e69b1dd4ce319a4.JPG

    the lft side chain is the one for the mushroom anchor

     

     

    DSCI0085.thumb.JPG.62168a7ec894658de5ab290ba077012d.JPG

    this is the chain for the sideHall-anchor

     

     

     

  9. Update

     

    installed the anchor port fairlead into the forward side wall and fitted the operational Hall-anchor. also the bulwarks, the deck and fitting the deck in on the deck beams and between the bulwarks not permanently glued in yet, and the upper bulwark tops still have to be trimmed. I left an outcut in the deck for later access to the interior. The insides of the bulwarks and the vertical transverse frame (fore and aft)  have to be painted before glueing in the deck

     

    Nils

    DSCI0074.thumb.JPG.b91f0d8a8472fe9760db24803c5070fa.JPG

    mushroom anchor brought out

    DSCI0073.thumb.JPG.9d3590715b2ee9632c23a1828d20309e.JPG

    stb. bulwark mounted

    DSCI0076.thumb.JPG.c95c39d0b4daf229075c6a8c36301e8e.JPG

    all deck beams checked for smooth deck fit

    DSCI0075.thumb.JPG.6ad0f2ac2278ae83a21eefb38bbed3c9.JPG

    the planked deck

    DSCI0078.thumb.JPG.eab4e559746c1ea20a91120afd212d79.JPG

    bulwark flush with upper side

    DSCI0081.thumb.JPG.be1c1dec553449a0e99cfcec2840b372.JPG

    operational Wall-anchor fitted

    DSCI0082.thumb.JPG.9d82a71e6dca8b5b9b3b072061933816.JPG

    port side bulwark

    DSCI0083.thumb.JPG.810e9033d18bf4c7f04ceb4baa3b8e52.JPG

    deck neatly fitted in (dry fit) . 

     

     

  10. thank you very much Greg,

    I`m happy that my "Eagle of Algier" could be helpfull for inspiration with your build. You`ve realy created a wonderful model, so neatly built. In fact the Eagle is off the same Amati plan, only magnified to scale 1:48

    I`m looking foreward to see your sails and rigging as well. Wishing you further success and much fun with your build you can be proud of.

     

    Nils

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