Kevin-the-lubber
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Everything posted by Kevin-the-lubber
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By the way Bill, you shouldn't be so hard on yourself. As I'm sure you're going to find when you have it finished and on display, you are going to hear a lot of 'wows'. You've made some very good individual taste choices that, in my view, make this a unique and very appealing build. And one more 'by the way': you do realise, don't you, that a little ways down the line we're all going to be asking you the same questions you've been asking Ian, so don't plan any long vacations! Ian - I hadn't thought about that (the CS climb). I'm sure they'll have a hoist... Personally I enjoyed Aubrey/Maturin the most. It's rare that I hang on to books once read but for me, that set are keepers. You're right though, they'll make more sense in places with ship modelling knowledge. -
Re’ Dr Maturin, very few as I remember! But I’ll make a note to count when I next re-read 😀. Climbing overhangs on a rock face firmly planted in the ground was bad enough, nothing but nothing would persuade me to do this on a ship swinging in the wind.
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Now I understand your problem better. A question - is the PVA peeling off easily? And is the stain oil-based? I’m wondering whether this is the issue, that the stain has created a barrier. Although I’ve glued countless bits of timber I’ve never stained it first as I would always be wanting a fresh, clean surface but also because my (furniture) joints sometimes need a little bit of tidying and blending. If it was me I think I’d do a little testing with a fresh bottle of PVA at this point, glueing stained/unstained. Either way, your plan to carve small grooves sounds like a good one. Alternatively, if there’s enough meat, how about drilling a load of shallow holes along each mating surface and, to go the hole hog, pop in some dowels. Just about anything will do but cocktail sticks spring to mind. I don’t have any experience glueing wood with CA so don’t know if that permeates better than PVA. Gorilla glue also has its uses so long as you can clamp parts together, but it can be messy. And to go a little left field, industrial mastic-type adhesives just might do it; I’ve never used them to actually glue wood together but I’ve sealed stained and varnished window and doorframes without issue and could imagine it working. The boat itself looks wonderful and I feel your pain. To have produced such a lovely item and then see it fall apart in my hands would be heartbreaking.
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Looks eminently suitable, Bill. And it remains fascinating to see you working through this, bit by bit. The sheer amount of labour required for rigging gets completely lost from view when someone simply does a “ta-da” reveal and for beginners like me the step by step coverage is going to be invaluable.
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That’s fascinating. I imagine it costs a fortune. Depending on how strong the printed objects are, it does have relevance to modelling: for 1/100 scale I can print blocks down to about 2mm but anything smaller I.e. 6” blocks, are technically challenging. Nano 3D probably opens up a whole world of possibilities for models at, say, 1/700 etc.
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I think some pieces are better made using resin and others using filament, but neither are ideal for every part and in some instances, e.g. masts and spars, neither are particularly suitable at all. Resin gives much better fine detail but filament is better for structural strength, at the expense of surface finish. Personally, I won’t be too surprised if I eventually find myself using 3D printed for a frame and detailed parts but with wood planking for the aesthetics. In any case I’ll follow yours with interest. 3D seems to be coming into play quite quickly, with more and more model makers heading in this direction.
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And I guess you would you also be able to export them as STL's for 3D printing? At some point I hope to do a whole ship in 3D and think it would probably be immensely satisfying to do so to your level of detail.
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Fantastic modelling Waldemar, it looks very nicely faired. Once the 3D work is complete, what do you plan to do with that? Will you use it to make templates or drawings for making each part in wood?
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That’s a nice idea. I’ve not yet committed to any particular mounting method for my Cutty Sark other than not the kit way, and you’ve given me food for thought.
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Marc, Ian, thanks. This was surprisingly quick, easy and fun to make. And I’m pleased to have now got a couple of items properly finished! I look at the production rate of others on the forum and just don’t know how they do it.
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Bill, lucky for me then that the Kearsage was the base model. I had a good look at it when it arrived and will look forward to working on that, probably late this year or early next year. It sounds like you are doing to the Alabama what I’m doing to the Cutty Sark. I’ll almost certainly do something similar to the Kearsage as I dislike the split deck and now have a reasonable method for making my own. The model is quite similar in approach to the CS - illogical divisions, positive grain and so on, but for all that, what looks like a very unusual, interesting ship to make. I also quite like that there aren’t dozens of build logs for it; it’ll be good to have to figure it out myself. On a different tack, my second CS arrived last week, what’s interesting is how much more flex there is in that newer pressing. Less flash as well. I don’t know what I’ll do with it though. Possibly just keep it for a rainy day. I’d like to have a go at the very beautiful Glory of the Seas but make that entirely myself, mostly via 3D printing. But that too is for another day.
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It’s probably mild steel, but at the low grade end of things. As luck would have it I threw away miles of copper wire and old armoured cable that I replaced when I built my office a couple of years back, which would have come in handy now. I’ll have to think of a new project to generate some more 😀
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It sunk in because I’ll be using that wire for the railings but, in its normal state, it’s very soft and ductile and I could foresee many happy hours trying to tease it into a ‘perfect’ shape. After twisting it’s surprising stiff and I guess with enough practice (and nothing better to do!) I imagine you can tailor that to your needs. Digging very deep into memories of my apprenticeship, it’s all about changing the crystalline structure. I can see me begging for unused Victory wire sooner or later!
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The last 3 or 4 weeks have been a little fraught for various reasons, including me breaking the motherboard on the larger resin printer, and I've been more re-grouping than forging ahead. Lots of cussing but the manufacturers very kindly sent me a replacement, gratis, and I'm back in business. However, bit by bit I'm producing each part to the level I want and will soon start another long painting session using lessons learned through trial and error. Meanwhile, I remade the winches as I really didn't like the kit parts. I do still need to take the shine off the rollers as these are supposed to be blackened wood. As ever, there are about 20 parts and even though it wasn't intentional, it did actually work as a machine before I locked it up with glue! I also learned two useful things along the way; - CA dries incredibly quickly on carbon fibre: the axles are 1mm CF and I had to do a dot of medium CA on the ends instead of shafts as it set almost instantly. Must be some kind of chemical reaction or that it soaks straight into the fibres. - twisting wire really does straighten and stiffen it hugely. I read that tip on here somewhere and, for the tie-rods and handle I once again used the 0.5mm gunport lid wire from the Victory kit, put a pin vice on each end and gave it many turns while holding it straight.
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I guess it’s probably a bit of a grind at times, doing this day after day Bill. But it’s coming along nicely from where I’m sat.
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3d printing process
Kevin-the-lubber replied to henrythestaffy's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
Neither is mine but, to be honest, it was only the smell that bothered me. One day I might build a large, heated and ventilated enclosure for the whole lot but it's a low priority. But then again, mine is in a garage so the smell doesn't bother anyone else. Different if it's indoors. -
3d printing process
Kevin-the-lubber replied to henrythestaffy's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
How odd that we have almost opposite experiences. I do get the occasional failure, invariably supports-related but I'm able to get away with the lightest of supports on small items, though not bigger things. And I have needed to redesign some things explicitly to be able to deal with support removal and the resulting surface defects. It sounds like I should give anycubic another try. -
Ian, when I eventually saw a nature doc about them I was surprised at how big they are - they really are, aren't they. These sound like wonderful experiences. Even though I have had many of my own I'm still envious. There ought to be a forum just for these stories. I'd never heard of the duck tolling retriever breed - lovely looking dogs and I laughed out loud at one part of the description on the web "....easily distracted and easily bored, which can make training more difficult". Sounds like this build log.
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Let me digress and tell you a story. When it came to our final school exams (some 45 years ago now), for art it was part theory, part practical. For the practical I decided to draw an elegant, noble, thoroughbred racehorse standing still in field. I spent hours on it at home before taking it into school to finish off. At a certain point our very genial teacher came round to me, looked, looked again, asked me what I was aiming for, and as kindly as he could, suggested that perhaps I might be better altering just a few things and it would then be the best drawing of a moose he'd ever have seen. This included having said moose standing knee deep in a lake, to solve the legs problem. It was indeed a very nice picture of a moose, albeit I've never seen one in the flesh. I wish I'd kept it. I still failed the exam - I like to think it was the theory that did for me, but I suspect that isn't entirely true.
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3d printing process
Kevin-the-lubber replied to henrythestaffy's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
As far as I can remember this is similar to my experience with elegoo's water washable. The surface finish was a bit coarse and way below what I would get with standard or abs-like so that was the end of that. I think I just used it up by adding a bit at a time to standard resin when printing test pieces. I've never altered the layer heights from factory settings but on reflection there are a few pieces which I need to print again where I may do so, just to get that extra high quality finish. -
Victory Bill, I think you’ll have a lot of fun with this. I was absolutely hopeless at art in school but have always had a bit of the frustrated artist in me, and this is a good outlet - painting by numbers for grown-ups. I love learning the strange, romantic names of colours - phthalo blue - what the heck is that? Don’t know, but it sounds fabulous. Alabama Bill, I think the Kearsage is quite similar to the Alabama isn’t it? I’ll need to have a look at your log when I’m ready to start on that (could be years!). An observation - 3D printing is great but takes all the soul out of the model. I often think of the tale that the very best Persian rugs have one deliberate error in them, because it’s that tiny flaw that makes the whole work. For 3D modelling, I think it’s probably possible to put the soul back in through the painting, because that too will have (hopefully small) imperfections that give it that human touch.
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Thanks Marc, I liked it too, just wish I could do this with the same result time after time. In that instance I just got lucky (again) but, with it being acrylics I wasn’t able to keep the unused mix for later. I want to do all the varnished surfaces more or less the same, which is why I’ll spend a bit of time now nailing down mixtures and a process. One other thing I’d like to control is the degree of sheen. Gloss is a bit too sharp to my eye, satin too dull. I have some semi-gloss rattle can bodywork spray but it came out more like a mottled gloss. Any tips anyone?
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This is what I'm talking about; Beautiful colouring here but it's just a bit too dark for the deck colouring. I used burnt sienna here as I didnt have any raw sienna and dont really have the skill to reliably mix my own. and I am terrible at remembering what a colour should look like. (Off shopping in a moment!). Here, a much better colour match with the deck and, I think, close-ish to raw sienna, but I lost the 'graining/texture'. But here you can also see that 'spotting' effect from the ink. I think it's a bit like the wear and tear marks you get on any wood surface from being walked on for years and years.
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Just got a re-issue version for £40 on eBay, sounds like I got very lucky - I was the only bidder! Very excited to see it when it arrives, looks like a very interesting kit, though I won’t be starting it for quite a while.
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3d printing process
Kevin-the-lubber replied to henrythestaffy's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
I’ll have to try that Phrozen water washable. I tried the elegoo version once and didn’t like it at all, as the surface quality was quite inferior, but I spend a fortune on IPA and would love to avoid that cost. It sounds similar to the elegoo ABS-like. I get really crisp detail with this, it’s very flexible and a fair amount of the stuff I’ve printed is very thin (0.2 - 0.4mm). I settled on grey as a standard colour as everyone says it’s the best for seeing the detail before painting. That’s certainly true in comparison to the syratech fast, which I originally could only find in a kind of skin tone. I’ve thought I’ve sanded support marks out, primed, then had to sand again, which I hardly ever had to do with grey. what settings do you use for the anycubic standard? I have most of a litre which I’ll want to use up if I can.
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