AnobiumPunctatum

Really nice deatils, Patrick

Jack,

yes, it's the company. If they speak English I don't know.

If not, I would be pleased to help you because my German is much better than my English

Really nice hull, Nils

Jack,

I don't know a company in Italiy. But do you know "Saemann" It's a German company and they will do PE parts cor customers.

Really wonderful, Siggi.

Where do you found the information about the painting of your model? I like to paint my Fly also later, but didnt found a good source.

Really wonderful hull. I logged in and hope that you have another chair for me.

Very accurate planking job. I like it very much.

Wonderful pictures of a beautyful model

 

The books can be bought from Seawatch Books and the plans from Admiralty Models.

... and they are every Cent worth.

Thanks druxey and Jan.

@Jan

This would a nice idea, but we don't have the possibility to place the half model on the wall. We live in attic floor apartement

Ben

it looks that the port is a little big and so the frames on the counter timber are a little bit small. If you plank the upper part of your hull I wouldn't change anything.

Really nice progress, Grant

This is the current stand of my reconstruction. As you see on the pictures I've need some putty after sanding. This has two reasons.

1. I've sanded to much on frame 20
2. The lines for the transoms have some smaller mistakes.

During the last month I've redrwan the transoms. Also I've corrected a small mistake of the maximum breath in this area. In the moment I add the counter timbers to my drawing and complete the half model to check the revised design.

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:

Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes

Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.

Then my favourite pastime - sanding

Really interesting build log.Your idea for makeing treenails is great

Really wonderful carvings

Really wonderful model, Lee

Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
 

To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
 

With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.

The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.

First half of frame 0

Six frames have been installed.

At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.

Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible

 

Slade's design draught of the 'Victory' from 1765 is in the NMM collection,  but it is very badly damaged and difficult to make out the details in the online image.  However,  there is an image of it in a recent book on Nelson's Victory by Brian Lavery which I have,  and here it can be made out that this deck at the same level as the upper deck.

There exist a second contemporary drawing of HMS Victory in the Danish Orlogbasen. Click on B18

Danny,

your anchors are looking very beautyful.

 

I stained the Castello with Oak stain to give them a more weathered look :

In my opinion this was not a good choice, because you did not stain anything else on your beautyful model as I remember right. If box was to light, why didn't you use some of your pear for the fluke?

But you are the master of your shipyard. So it's your decision.

Happy birthday, Mark. Have a nice day with your family.

To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord

With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:

All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.

Part 1 Reconstruction of the hull lines

David Antscherl wrote in his wonderful series about th Swan Class Sloop, that there are a lot of smaller differences between the ships of the class, for example the knee of the head of Fly.
As first decision for my new start I decided not to use the general lines, which David has published. I want to do my own reconstruction. The naval cutter was a first exercise for this project. In January I started with the reconstruction. At the end of February I had a first version of my body plan, which matchs the lines of the historical drawing very well.