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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Ouch indeed Vlad, but it looks like you're well on the path of recovery. I think this might be a 'right of passage' for builders. I can't remember how many jib-booms I had to replace on my Endeavour. cheers Pat
  2. Thanks again Eberhard, that's the one. I have some original plates I purchased on-line which appear to have been cut from this or similar article. I also had seen some patent descriptions/articles in a couple of contemporary magazines, but the linked thesis is great, thanks. I'll keep my eyes open for any other release mechanisms I have come across, especially if in good condition. cheers Pat
  3. Thanks for that very helpful explanation Eberhard; much appreciated. I would agree, this looks very similar to the three-leg sling chain arrangement used by the RN. At one stage (about 1858 I think) the "Victoria" experimented with a new lifting and lowering arrangement, especially a new release mechanism designed by a Mr. Clifford. I have yet to determine the result of the trials and whether she kept that arrangement. Happy to send you some details if you would like them. cheers Pat
  4. Neat (and not so costly) solution Glen. cheers Pat
  5. A mini-masterpiece Eberhard. I love the weather worn look of those bench seats/thwarts. I am also grateful for the photos which show how you have addressed the chain sling component of the boat lifting/lowering arrangement as that is something I need to address also. cheers Pat
  6. Cheers HOF, thanks. I just received one with the intention to see how it performs also. Everything in the box looks OK, and surprisingly of better quality than I had thought it would be, but have yet to test it. One note of caution, the needles seem extra fine/slim (not the tip, but overall) so they may be prone to damage quicker than for a name brand version. It may pay to find a source for replacement needles (I will let you know if I find a source) as I am not sure if other brand needles will fit through? I have yet to test for spray pattern, atomising etc but even if I don't use the airbrush, the parts alone cover the cost. I intend to have it permanently set-up with the 0.3 or 0.5 needle to use for putting down my base/primer coats, and use my H&S for finish coats and detailing. That way I am not constantly changing needles, and for primer coats, if the atomising works as well as the guy claims in the online test, then it will be just fine for this purpose. cheers Pat
  7. Very thorough description Joss, much enjoyed reading this. cheers Pat
  8. One option that I use is my mill or if you have one a small press-drill. I put the piece (well protected) in a vice, or lay it in a 'V' block braced/packed to keep it level. If I lower the drill slowly, I have had success in keeping it centred. I have since obtained a 'sensitive' drill attachment which allows me much more 'feel' and control. However, if doing it by hand (pin-vice etc), SHJ has given the best advice for using a small awl to prick a light dent. Alternatively, you might file a very small flat using a small needle file at the point you want to drill - this may help with the bit wandering? cheers Pat
  9. A very clever solution Richard; looks good. cheers Pat
  10. All 'gobbledy goop' tech talk to me Ian, but I am impressed with where you are going with this build - can't wait to see it in action. cheers Pat
  11. Looking great Glen; a testament to your skills. So, I am assuming a couple of spears floating in the bottle's neck water and one or two sticking out of the Kraken? Sorry, couldn't help myself. cheers Pat
  12. Another interesting subject to model. Look forward to this one also; hopefully you will be fully recovered soon. cheers Pat
  13. Aye Aye skipper! I have accepted this as the case and they will be shown parallel. cheers Pat
  14. I have continued to follow quietly in the background Keith and continue to admire your skills; especially with the metalwork. To me the stand is a little reminiscent to a cradle used in some hardstands. I have much enjoyed this build and look forward to your next adventure. cheers Pat
  15. You are making excellent progress Vlad, but I think Rob's advice as to making blocks as you need them may be a good idea if you plan to do them all by hand tool - that is a tough task you have set yourself. I look forward to seeing your updates. cheers Pat
  16. Kevin, it looks very similar in concept to Jim Byrne's design (universal ropewalk) which has a very small footprint. The cone is replaced with a die in a stand that forms the winding of the scale rope. The placement and size (hole) in the die govern the angle of twist (tightness). I bought one of Jim's and after much experimentation have come up with same basic 'rules' of thumb for its operation. There was (may still be) a topic somewhere (probably under Rigging) that several users of the JB ropewalk left comments WRT how to use it. The most important being how to wind on the stock threads in the right way to achieve the lay of the scale rope you want. Also, it is very important to 'ENSURE' the stock threads are wound onto the three individual stock spools at exactly the same tension. As you can easily deduce, the take-up of the rope is done manually using the hand wound spool. Some experimentation is necessary to determine the distance between the spools and the 'die' (cone replacement) in Jim's version of this. There used to be an article about this style of ropewalk by its original designer in a magazine - I will see if I can find it. Give me a PPM if you think it is the same. cheers Pat
  17. Thanks again Michael. From the inputs received and based on my research it would be a reasonable statement to say that up until the mid-19th century the caps could either orientation, with perpendicular initially, slowly evolving to parallel fitting as time progressed. This was especially so as the rakes on the masts until then was not so severe. However, with the introduction of clippers and steam vessels (in very general terms and exceptions exist), from the mid-19th century it appears that the caps were fitted parallel with the tops/waterline. Appreciate all the feedback received. Cheers Pat
  18. Folks I post this with a little hesitation - mods please delete if it exceeds guidelines. I came across the following airbrush deal the other day which is real value-for-money BUT it appears to be a Chinese knock-off even if sold in USA. As such I cannot vouch on how much of a knock-off it is? That said, and if OK to post; the package offers everything you need except the air-compressor. As discussed in the YouTube review, the cost of the accessories included is greater than for the whole package. His tests als0 show that it works well. For consideration and apologies if this product is overstepping the 'piracy code'. Amazon.com: NEOECO Multi-Purpose Airbrush Kit, Dual-Action Gravity Feed Air Brush Sets with with Crown Nozzle, 9cc 20cc 40cc Cup, 0.2, 0.3 & 0.5mm Needles for Makeup Nail Art Shoes Tattoo Cake Toy Model : Arts, Crafts & Sewing Here is the review I base this on. Sorry - I had the wrong link here (30 Jan 2022) cheers Pat
  19. An interesting mix of modern and traditional modelling techniques Mike. Interesting subject also. cheers Pat
  20. Thanks, interesting vessel - it's a pity we are slowly losing all of these maritime assets. cheers Pat
  21. Yep, there would definitely been only a pair of 'train' tackles Dave, the front hooks will have probably been moused on and the after hooks moved to the best ring for maximum 'advantage'. I know you don't intend to add masts etc, but it would have been interesting to see the dangling tackle used for loading the mortar shells . cheers Pat
  22. Looking good Keith; as others have said, your explanation for this process is very clear and well demonstrated. I continue to enjoy your updates. cheers Pat
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