BANYAN

What an outstanding model Keith; it has been a true pleasure to watch you bring her along. She is a testament to your skills. cheers Pat

HOF - I will see if I can find some Harry, I think the best bet would be to contact the guy that runs the Barbatos Rex YouTube channel as he seems to have an inside run with these guys. Will let you know if I find anything. Kurt, James et al. The great pity of all this is that I only became aware of a local guy (Scale Model Supplies - SMS - who lives just up the road from me) who makes great paint, but I just found out he also makes / has a range of airbrushes called DragonAir (probably made off-shore though) a few days after posting this. If I had known of him earlier, I would have ordered one of his airbrushes instead. Just to clarify, I wanted something cheap, with a larger needle and had an extra-large cup option simply to lay down primers. I did not want to spend the sums some of the 'brand names' charge for this purpose. I will stick with my H&S for fine work though. The problem with some Brand names however, is that to buy them or to get spares etc down here is SUPER expensive due to the high postal rates from the US and some other countries these days - this has done no favours for US companies we typically use in this hobby, and I have had to stop purchasing from the likes of Sherline etc as the postal costs are just not sustainable (the postal charges are the same if not MUCH more than the items). As an example: I wanted a glass bottomed airbrush cleaning pot. I very recently looked on Amazon and found one at a very good price (less than US$25), but only available through Amazon US - that price was inviting until they added US$83 for postage for quite a small item - GO FIGURE! For this very reason, while it is great to be able to support local businesses (and I fully support this intention) those kinds of fees/charges just do not make it viable to order from the larger companies. Prices within the US may be okay, but for us international customers to buy say a Badger, you can double or triple the prices down here for such items. That is why we look at these cheaper options occasionally. I am not trying to start a flame war here, nor to belittle any products or such, and actually agree with the sentiments expressed - its just that in reality it is hard to put into practice when these sort of prices affect people whom may be on a budget? This post, and the original, was simply intended to try and help out others in a similar situation - buying 'Branded' is sometimes simply not an option; it would help if these 'big brands' tried to do something about the exorbitant postal costs sometime applied. cheers Pat

Ouch indeed Vlad, but it looks like you're well on the path of recovery. I think this might be a 'right of passage' for builders. I can't remember how many jib-booms I had to replace on my Endeavour. cheers Pat

Thanks again Eberhard, that's the one. I have some original plates I purchased on-line which appear to have been cut from this or similar article. I also had seen some patent descriptions/articles in a couple of contemporary magazines, but the linked thesis is great, thanks. I'll keep my eyes open for any other release mechanisms I have come across, especially if in good condition. cheers Pat

Thanks for that very helpful explanation Eberhard; much appreciated. I would agree, this looks very similar to the three-leg sling chain arrangement used by the RN. At one stage (about 1858 I think) the "Victoria" experimented with a new lifting and lowering arrangement, especially a new release mechanism designed by a Mr. Clifford. I have yet to determine the result of the trials and whether she kept that arrangement. Happy to send you some details if you would like them. cheers Pat

Neat (and not so costly) solution Glen. cheers Pat

A mini-masterpiece Eberhard. I love the weather worn look of those bench seats/thwarts. I am also grateful for the photos which show how you have addressed the chain sling component of the boat lifting/lowering arrangement as that is something I need to address also. cheers Pat

Cheers HOF, thanks. I just received one with the intention to see how it performs also. Everything in the box looks OK, and surprisingly of better quality than I had thought it would be, but have yet to test it. One note of caution, the needles seem extra fine/slim (not the tip, but overall) so they may be prone to damage quicker than for a name brand version. It may pay to find a source for replacement needles (I will let you know if I find a source) as I am not sure if other brand needles will fit through? I have yet to test for spray pattern, atomising etc but even if I don't use the airbrush, the parts alone cover the cost. I intend to have it permanently set-up with the 0.3 or 0.5 needle to use for putting down my base/primer coats, and use my H&S for finish coats and detailing. That way I am not constantly changing needles, and for primer coats, if the atomising works as well as the guy claims in the online test, then it will be just fine for this purpose. cheers Pat

Very thorough description Joss, much enjoyed reading this. cheers Pat

You're doing a better job than I could Vlad. cheers Pat

One option that I use is my mill or if you have one a small press-drill. I put the piece (well protected) in a vice, or lay it in a 'V' block braced/packed to keep it level. If I lower the drill slowly, I have had success in keeping it centred. I have since obtained a 'sensitive' drill attachment which allows me much more 'feel' and control. However, if doing it by hand (pin-vice etc), SHJ has given the best advice for using a small awl to prick a light dent. Alternatively, you might file a very small flat using a small needle file at the point you want to drill - this may help with the bit wandering? cheers Pat

A very clever solution Richard; looks good. cheers Pat

All 'gobbledy goop' tech talk to me Ian, but I am impressed with where you are going with this build - can't wait to see it in action. cheers Pat

Looking great Glen; a testament to your skills. So, I am assuming a couple of spears floating in the bottle's neck water and one or two sticking out of the Kraken? Sorry, couldn't help myself. cheers Pat

Great diorama Greg; very realistic. cheers Pat

Another interesting subject to model. Look forward to this one also; hopefully you will be fully recovered soon. cheers Pat

Aye Aye skipper! I have accepted this as the case and they will be shown parallel. cheers Pat

I have continued to follow quietly in the background Keith and continue to admire your skills; especially with the metalwork. To me the stand is a little reminiscent to a cradle used in some hardstands. I have much enjoyed this build and look forward to your next adventure. cheers Pat

You are making excellent progress Vlad, but I think Rob's advice as to making blocks as you need them may be a good idea if you plan to do them all by hand tool - that is a tough task you have set yourself. I look forward to seeing your updates. cheers Pat

Kevin, it looks very similar in concept to Jim Byrne's design (universal ropewalk) which has a very small footprint. The cone is replaced with a die in a stand that forms the winding of the scale rope. The placement and size (hole) in the die govern the angle of twist (tightness). I bought one of Jim's and after much experimentation have come up with same basic 'rules' of thumb for its operation. There was (may still be) a topic somewhere (probably under Rigging) that several users of the JB ropewalk left comments WRT how to use it. The most important being how to wind on the stock threads in the right way to achieve the lay of the scale rope you want. Also, it is very important to 'ENSURE' the stock threads are wound onto the three individual stock spools at exactly the same tension. As you can easily deduce, the take-up of the rope is done manually using the hand wound spool. Some experimentation is necessary to determine the distance between the spools and the 'die' (cone replacement) in Jim's version of this. There used to be an article about this style of ropewalk by its original designer in a magazine - I will see if I can find it. Give me a PPM if you think it is the same. cheers Pat

Thanks again Michael. From the inputs received and based on my research it would be a reasonable statement to say that up until the mid-19th century the caps could either orientation, with perpendicular initially, slowly evolving to parallel fitting as time progressed. This was especially so as the rakes on the masts until then was not so severe. However, with the introduction of clippers and steam vessels (in very general terms and exceptions exist), from the mid-19th century it appears that the caps were fitted parallel with the tops/waterline. Appreciate all the feedback received. Cheers Pat

Folks I post this with a little hesitation - mods please delete if it exceeds guidelines. I came across the following airbrush deal the other day which is real value-for-money BUT it appears to be a Chinese knock-off even if sold in USA. As such I cannot vouch on how much of a knock-off it is? That said, and if OK to post; the package offers everything you need except the air-compressor. As discussed in the YouTube review, the cost of the accessories included is greater than for the whole package. His tests als0 show that it works well. For consideration and apologies if this product is overstepping the 'piracy code'. Amazon.com: NEOECO Multi-Purpose Airbrush Kit, Dual-Action Gravity Feed Air Brush Sets with with Crown Nozzle, 9cc 20cc 40cc Cup, 0.2, 0.3 & 0.5mm Needles for Makeup Nail Art Shoes Tattoo Cake Toy Model : Arts, Crafts & Sewing Here is the review I base this on. Sorry - I had the wrong link here (30 Jan 2022) cheers Pat

An interesting mix of modern and traditional modelling techniques Mike. Interesting subject also. cheers Pat

Thanks, interesting vessel - it's a pity we are slowly losing all of these maritime assets. cheers Pat

Yep, there would definitely been only a pair of 'train' tackles Dave, the front hooks will have probably been moused on and the after hooks moved to the best ring for maximum 'advantage'. I know you don't intend to add masts etc, but it would have been interesting to see the dangling tackle used for loading the mortar shells . cheers Pat