Jump to content

BANYAN

SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • Posts

    5,532
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Bob, a good idea to protect the planking after you lay it, but please be aware of two 'things' to make your life a little easier. First, choose the varnish/stain carefully after testing on the same type of wood, as some varnishes can change the colour/tone of the wood. More importantly, be aware of where you will need to glue/fix deck furniture etc as gluing to a varnished surface will not provide the necessary strength sometimes - you can either not varnish that area, or you could use additional fixing supports (such as pins etc). Just a head's up. cheers Pat
  2. Absolutely wonderful detail Brian; Cairo is really brought to life with all your added detail. No wonder you attracted your unwanted visitor, it simply heard about your build and came to have a look for itself cheers Pat
  3. Hi Bob, good luck with your build. WRT the decking article, please be aware the width of the individual planks (driven by available timber), plank shift (number of planks between/before the pattern starts again) and tree nailing (trennels) is determined from a bunch of variables depending on when (period of original vessel's build), who built it (nationality) and how realistic/close to original the method you wish to emulate. The article you show will be a great help, as would be any of the ones available in the MSW articles database (see top tabs). Drawing lines is quite OK, it is entirely up to the builder how they wish to do it, but if you wish to progress your planking skills, laying individual planks is the way to go. If this is early in your learning curve, stick with a pretty simple butt shift/plank pattern and simply develop your skills in laying down planks. Most of us have had to go through these learning curves, which really never stops. I'll follow with interest. cheers Pat
  4. Lots of big boxes Greg; will these [all the extra parts] 'sink' the smaller kit Yep, interested! cheers Pat
  5. I'm late to the log (again) - sorry Glen. A very interesting subject you have chosen. I'll follow along with delight. cheers Pat
  6. What a gem of a model Keith, all that finely detailed brass work really adds to its presentation. cheers Pat
  7. Your joinery remains first class Bitao, those scarfed joints are super clean and crisp. cheers Pat
  8. That looks so convincingly realistic Keith; it looks like the real deal. cheers Pat
  9. Take your time Keith. I am enjoying viewing this little marvel - the longer time allows for a prolonged visual feast. cheers Pat
  10. Rob, those 'faux' furled sails are really looking good among the increasing rigging 'forest'; it will be great to eventually see the effect against a clean background. cheers Pat
  11. Hi Eberhard, somehow missed your kind response. Thanks again, I am currently looking around within Australia, but this is a good fallback option. cheers Pat
  12. You're making some great progress with nice detail. Thanks for the 'eye candy' cheers Pat
  13. Thanks Andrew, much appreciated. My usual supplier hasn't got back to me yet. cheers Pat
  14. Nice work on this boat Eberhard; and, I found your conclusions very enlightening. Looking forward to the painted object. cheers Pat
  15. That hull looks very nicely faired Dave; will you be sealing the balsa first? cheers Pat
  16. A simple but very useful jig; thanks Roger. I hope you don't mind if I steal your idea cheers Pat
  17. Thanks for trying Eberhard, much appreciated. We have a long weekend here but will try my usual sources tomorrow; it looks like one of them may carry them (however, logistics/product availability are our biggest problems at the moment) but I may have to wait for a while to get them depending on stock in-hand. cheers Pat
  18. Good idea Keith, but creating even more work for myself I think as, as you hint, I think I may get flooded. Based on the generous interest and suggestions, I think I have settled on two methods depending on size. For the smaller ones (OD of band less than 2mm) I will use the eyebolt method described earlier. For hose bigger than 2mm, I will use the jig I developed (post 818), but use a better drill/bit. Based on one of your ideas I think I have a jig that will allow me to mount them in the mill and use my sensitive drilling attachment, along with my indexing head, to drill holes as required. The real trick here I think will be using a better bit and some cooling compound. I like the idea of those 'pivot' drills and currently searching for some locally. I'll post some photos once I get the jig and drilling setup sorted. Appreciate all the feedback folks, this has been a very useful and fruitful discussion for me. cheers Pat
×
×
  • Create New...