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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Good idea Keith, but creating even more work for myself I think as, as you hint, I think I may get flooded. Based on the generous interest and suggestions, I think I have settled on two methods depending on size. For the smaller ones (OD of band less than 2mm) I will use the eyebolt method described earlier. For hose bigger than 2mm, I will use the jig I developed (post 818), but use a better drill/bit. Based on one of your ideas I think I have a jig that will allow me to mount them in the mill and use my sensitive drilling attachment, along with my indexing head, to drill holes as required. The real trick here I think will be using a better bit and some cooling compound. I like the idea of those 'pivot' drills and currently searching for some locally. I'll post some photos once I get the jig and drilling setup sorted. Appreciate all the feedback folks, this has been a very useful and fruitful discussion for me. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Phew, your rollicking along now Rob; that rigging looks good. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    The occasional use by the 'Admiral' I can handle as I know where the tool/item is; BUT, my real issue is when the boys use my shed as their local Bunnings/Lowes depot cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Wow, nice work and really looking great Brian. Not cheating with those tabs at all, that is a good way to secure them. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    thanks Roger; both great thoughts worth consideration. I can attest my drill were not sharp enough, so that was my first concern. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Hi again Andrew, Mark and Roger; again I very much value the input and suggestions. Thanks for the link Andrew; I think I will have to invest in some of these - appreciated. Mark, the product I have seen (in various guises) is called 'Blue Stuff' - I am about to order some to experiment with (if I can get t in a suitable size); it comes as a gel, paste or putty (I think). Hi Roger, thanks for the thought - I think you may be right. I have also considered cutting a slot for the flat pieces to fit into which is fine if four plates are needed, but I am yet to work out how to do 3 in such a small diameter tube (without destroying the band). The joint seems reasonable until it is heated through drilling, but that is where your thoughts on surface area of the joint probably are the root cause. I am not sure I can find suitably stiff flat bar stock to use as the lugs. the stock I am using at the moment are only 0.4mm; any thinner and I don't think they will be stiff enough for shaping and drilling etc. Cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    What a great subject to model Greg; looks like you are making good progress with her. I always seem to be late to your builds; but at least I get there cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Hi Andrew, thanks again for your contributions and suggestions. I like the idea of the spear drill but had the same thought as Keith raises, and I have one other BIG problem. No matter how careful I am etc, I just seem not to have the necessary skills to make small tool accessories successfully. Believe me I have tried, but maintaining symmetry and controlling size are my biggest issues down at these sizes. I therefore prefer to buy the appropriate bits etc. I have some piano wire (from a previous failed attempt) and will have another go at your suggestion 3. I do appreciate the suggestions I have received re tool bits etc but we are wandering away from my key issue, controlling the heat in the spiderband type I have made. Please do not think I am ignoring the suggestions or that I am disinterested, etc, they are all interesting and useful, but for this job I need to rethink how I am going about it. The issue I believe (based on the various contributions) is that the geometry of the item under manufacture makes it difficult to hold securely and in a position that allows me to use a controlled drilling action (mill/drill). For the amount of times I drill brass (at this scale) I think I will stay with purchased bits (if I can find them) but need to adapt my process for holding the workpiece. I can place the item at 90 degrees to the bit by putting it into a rotating/indexing chuck, but supporting the ears adequately is another story. Therefore, if I can control the heat using one of the suggested bits (whether bought or hand made) I should be OK. However, while I ponder the problem I think, that at this scale and item size, I will drill the band itself and silver-soldering a twisted shank eyebolt into it, then filing/reaming the underside of the band will work. I have successfully done this for two small spiderbands now (each with an ID of sub 2mm). They look pretty good in-situ (photo will follow once the other parts are made and the whole spar painted) and the eyes seem to hold OK. This is similar in concept to Andrews 3rd option in his first post (818) of cheating royally . Thanks again everybody, much appreciated. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Stunning; that wheel looks great Bitao. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Thanks Eberhard, appreciated. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Thanks for posting the Lidar scan Brian, what a great tool. The layout is quite interesting and it is amazing how much detail the lidar actually picks up. I agree, almost impossible to see if doors were fitted. if it helps, the Victoria (1855) storerooms and magazine were also in the after hold but definitely had locks (not only specified in the Contract but supported with correspondence from the build superintendent) - the sickbay was a simple cupboard (kept locked) they called the 'Medicine Chest' which held a range of medicines and 'medicinal comforts' (Brandy etc) - cannot blame them keeping that locked. Hope that helps the thought process a little? cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    That looks great Rob, the rigging is really coming to life now. I really like the shroud fairleads; they sit perfectly and look the real deal - take a bow cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Hi Keith, I bought the "American Beauty" Super Chief 250 model (250 watts variable) SuperChief 250 Resistance Soldering System (americanbeautytools.com) . I have no commercial or other connection (yada yada) but I am very happy with the product and their support staff. The guys were very helpful as they did not have an Aussie agent at the time. They worked with me to provide a 240V version with probes/clips suited to my needs. I bought the package with the tweezer type probes + two individual/separate probes + two clip leads, one with a micro clip for those smaller jobs. A tad costly but I have found it great value for money and has made soldering smaller item a real breeze. The blurb on the page linked above says it all I think about its usefulness. Hope that helps; fire away if you need more questions etc (PM may be best) cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Thanks Eberhard. I had a good range of drill bits (0.3 to 3.0mm) optimised for brass that I had bought from Germany; they were great but the smaller ones (as you expect) were prone to breaking easily. Unfortunately due to their costs I have not replaced them. Can you get spade bits down to these sizes? I will have a look for straight fluted bits also; cost while a factor is not the driving consideration; to me, it is value for money. If they perform well and make the job feasible, then I would buy them. Do you have a recommended source please? Once again, many thanks for all of the advice you have provided along the way. The mast spiderbands proved relatively simply and my brass optimised bits worked great there in combo with my mill and a rotary table/block and vice. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Thanks again for the feedback Andrew and Keith. I think I have some solutions in mind now. Andrew: Thanks, I agree your comment re shape/angle of drill end for brass, but making my own is out of the question as I am drilling sub 0.5mm holes Based on the comments from you all, I think I now believe that what I have been using may be 'different melt point' solder even though there is a silver content. I will need to investigate that a bit further, but they do have some silver in it as they are definitely a little harder to cut than standard /soft solder (but only a bit more difficult). Keith: Appreciate the further feedback mate. Yep I do a fair bit of 'freehand' drilling using a micro motor handpiece (orthodontist type), so that is definitely one of the reasons I was/am breaking so many. I would very much like to use my mill with its sensitive drilling attachment and indexing attachment to drill these, but I have yet to fully develop a satisfactory jig (about 85% of the idea developed) - just need to find a way to support the ears a little once set-up. I have an idea for that (shaped wood block) but a bit distracted with other things at at the moment. I LOVE resistance soldering; did I tell you I L.... I can achieve the higher temps needed for true silver soldering (no flame) but only on bigger pieces (but not very large pieces (lots of surface area) where a flame is definitely needed. I find resistance soldering so much better for controlling the flow/placement of the heat. I can do a lot of joints in close proximity using differing melt point solders and placement of the probes. A tad expensive to purchase initially, but it has been one of the best value-for-money and fit for purchase items I have bought over the years. That was my retirement pressie to myself cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Ditto. Persistence pays off - looks good Steven. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Hi Eberhard and Keith, thanks again for your most welcome suggestions. Eberhard, there is a piccy at post https://modelshipworld.com/topic/14596-hmcss-victoria-1855-by-banyan-172/?do=findComment&comment=906095 This shows the ears before trimming etc. I am try to drill such that the OD edge is about .5mm from joint - I deliberately left them extended to facilitate drilling and planned to trim the ears back and shape them by filing. BTW, the solder is marked as 'silver' solder and seems to have good holding power. Keith, I had a heap of those but got rid of them as they were too brittle, and due to their sharp tip did not think they would be useful for brass. Well you know the saying - 'assume' is - makes an '***' out of 'U and Me' - in this case entirely out of me I will give them a try and see how they go. For the very small bands, the drilled hoop with soldered eyes seems to working. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Hi Brian, WRT locks, the magazines, shell rooms and most store rooms (especially those containing flammables and attractive provisions), the 'spirits' store (if there was one) and captain's stores rooms would all have locks also. The sickbay (or medicines locker) may also have had a lock. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    That skeleton came together very nicely Dave. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Hi again Keith, posts crossed in the ether. I use resistance soldering, so at a low setting it melts either 145degree or 179 degree silver solder quite well. When drilling there is no glow developing at all, I put my finger on the band near the lug being drilled and if I feel heat developing I stop. However, it appears that the solder softens and either the drill bit edges grab the lug and pull it off while warm, or the heat is greater than I thought? cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Thanks for the comments guys. Keith, I did try that with mixed results (unless I can do it consistently the ...) - I found the hole was so close in and at .6mm (has to be that size) there is very little meat left to solder to, so I thought drilling post soldering a better option - perhaps wrong approach so will experiment again. Eberhard, you're probably right. I did have a set of bits (from a German manufacturer/retailer) that were optimised for brass but I found they kept breaking to easily and at their very high cost have reverted to HSS bits. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Hi Keith, thanks for looking in. WRT the PE, I have an arrangement with a local railroad modeller whereby I do the rough artwork in CAD and export as it as a cdr file, he imports it, adjusts the items for best layout to maximise the stock, then etches the pieces for me. Works out at a reasonable cost and I don't have to learn yet another skill I have had to change tack a bit on the spiderbands as I was not having success drilling holes in the 'ears' - the heat generated was causing the soldered joint to let go even though I was using silver solder. I have reverted to soldering homemade eyes into predrilled holes in the band. I am still pursuing a solution to keep the drill generating too much heat when drilling the soldered ears; I need to find a was to locally cool and probably go much slower with the drilling. I have heard of a product called 'cool blue' either a gel or paste, which I might try. The earlier method will work for larger (greater than 3mm OD) bands so I have not given up on it. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Pause it????? Just as I found it????? As the car ad used to say Bu.......r! A very interesting concept and I am looking forward to how you attacked these Greg. I look forward to the bigger project though. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Hi Rich, I hope the following photo of the same type fitting (as my previous Underhill Illustration) taken aboard the SS Great Britain that I took while visiting Bristol, UK a couple of years back, although not showing the padeye, at least shows they were used in this era. The photo is a crop of the spiderband on the mast which is why the whole fitting is not shown. In this instance (and in the Victoria) used with a screw, but also could be used with a stay turned on a thimble as per previous illustration. I also agree with Rob's summation - with the many different methods employed during this period depending on the builder, purchaser and/or Captain, many differing methods could have been employed. But Underhill is at pains to state that usually, if one method is employed for one item, it was usually used throughout the ship. So whichever way you decide to go, there should be no issues. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    That's a great solution to the problem Dave, those recessed/flush stringers should do the trick nicely. cheers Pat

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