BANYAN

Looking good Rob; you're not mucking about with this (re)build are you. cheers Pat

Hi Grant, please see my PM. HMCSS Victoria also made extensive use of chain in the rigging but unfortunately, the Rigging Warrant mostly lists the chain as "equivalent to" the listed hemp rope - but no rope size is given; for example for the lower yard slings. However, there are a few listings: for example, the Tye chain for the fore topgallant yard is listed as 17ft of 5/16 inch , and the topsail sheets and tye chain are listed as 9/16 inch. However, I can only assume the chain size is the wire size (thickness of the rod used to form the link). However, please note these sizes are specific for the rigging strength required in this vessel and may have differed to that required in your vessel of interest? I cannot be more specific about other chain rigging at the moment as I am away on holidays with no access to my reference library, but I do have a copy of the Rigging Warrant on my Laptop. From another document I had access to via a private message I had sent on this forum, I can provide: Middendorf, 'Bemastung und Takelung der Schiffe', 1903, page 401, states that chains running over blocks should be short-link chains. Brady, ‘The Kedge Anchor’, pages 310/311, confirms this in listing short-link chain for running rigging. He also informs that ⅛” of iron in diameter is more than equal to an inch of hemp rope in circumference. According to the Canadian Defence ‘Engineer Field Manual’, Volume 15, Chapter 4, page 62, chain is termed short-link when the length of a link is less than five times the diameter of the wire size and the links are normally oval shaped, giving a good strength to weight factor. Hope this helps you a little? cheers Pat

You would never know this is a rebuild - nicely done Rob. cheers Pat

Glen, my best wishes to your friend for a fast and full recovery. cheers Pat

Niiiiice! cheers Pat

Wow, you are certainly not shy of undertaking a complex project Glen; good luck mate. I look forward to following this one also. cheers Pat

Thanks Roger

Quick work Rob but looking really good. I don't envy you doing the bow mods, that will test your skills/patience. cheers Pat

Hi Steven, the club built a model of Cerberus which is in the HMAS Castlemaine Museum now; I think this was as delivered. I have a few images and I am sure you are aware of the 'Save the Cerberus' web page which has a wealth of info? Looking forward to seeing your build. cheers Pat

Great progress and looking good Rob; up to your usual very high standards. Kudos for working around the rigging, you really like a challenge don't you cheers Pat

Ditto Steven - how did I miss this. A very interesting subject to model, and very well executed. cheers Pat

Some interesting conundrums you are dealing with here Rob, I follow with interest. cheers Pat

Perhaps also worth considering this design for 'rocking' the vessel of sandbars or the mud in ports? (Many ships in shallow ports sat on the mud when the tide went out.) By shifting weight/cargo fore or aft would perhaps raise the keel sufficiently to get her off? But, I think this would have been an addition or complimentary outcome, rather than a design feature? cheers Pat

That's a ripper find Keith. Thanks for sharing these photos which proved a great insight as to how these lamps were made and assembled. cheers Pat

This is one very nice model Eberhard, especially at the scale you are working. Kudos! cheers Pat

A very different subject for your next effort Greg; did all that rust attract you I have seen some info that suggested both guns may be removed to make-way for the installation of four 87-inch missile launcher modules, carrying up to 12 missiles. Which version are you building? cheers Pat

Some great research and discussion here - following with interest. Thanks guys. cheers Pat

Interesting videos and info; thanks Isaiah. cheers Pat

It may be slow (but not as slow as my build ) but it is worth waiting for Vlad. Looks great! cheers Pat

You have certainly mastered the art of planking Chuck; such clean, crisp joints and edges - a delight to see. cheers Pat

Can't wait to see the planking going on this beauty; nice work Ian. cheers Pat

You don't muck around once you commit do you Rob? Nice clean removal. cheers Pat

Hi Rick, I am sorry that I have not looked into your build before this - my loss as you are producing a very nice model. I have had a quick look through but will go back and read-in more carefully. Quite the task you have set yourself for a first model. That said, you appear to be well and truly up to the challenge. If you had not mentioned your issues with hull symmetry I would have never known, it looks fine in most photographs. I too like your shackles, they are very effective especially at scale 1/96. The deck furniture is coming along very well and looks great. For someone who claims they are not very good at joinery, you seem to be doing a very creditable job of it. You asked about sealing your deck? Once I have completed my deck planking, I mask/tape off the known deck furniture areas (outer boundary to allow glue to take) and give it as coat of Testors 'Dull Cote' which is a flat/matt varnish. I find this helps to protect the deck planking (especially as they are much lighter coloured planks), and should I accidently mark the planks doing other work, I can simply give it a light scrape to remove the marking and recoat the area. I use small scrapers made from old scalpel or similar blades for this. Being matt finish small touch-pups do not show. I am very much looking forward to your further updates. cheers Pat

That's a great outcome; and 'kudos' well deserved. cheers Pat

This will be interesting; I will be interested to see how you go about this Rob. cheers Pat