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Everything posted by BANYAN
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Hi Peter, that's what I went with. Some ships crews may have painted the head part a little more ornately, but I just went for plain red ochre for the windlass stands and the heads. cheers Pat
- 79 replies
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- Endeavour
- Artesania Latina
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Agree with Mark, the idea and construction of that mannequin is a very clever idea. Robotic or not, it is a great way to visualise the ergonomics and rowing techniques. cheers Pat
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The heads may have been painted anyway Peter, that was my choice anyway :). You're making good progress and I like that 'brown stuff' bottom.. cheers Pat
- 79 replies
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- Endeavour
- Artesania Latina
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As with many 'exercises in frustration' Steven, persistence provides a great result. Slowly but surely the refit proceeds. You must be pretty happy with these results? cheers Pat
- 739 replies
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- Tudor
- restoration
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I love the simplicity of design for the display stand Greg; the stamp tops it off. cheers Pat
- 35 replies
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Very nice Rob, that rigging is looking great. I particularly like the effect you have generated with the furled and weathered sails. I also work from aft-to-fwd; for me that allows me to bring the appropriate amount of tension on the backstays, stays etc as I progress forward - but more importantly, I found that if I rigged the bowsprit/jibboom first that I was constantly knocking it . As Druxey says; each to their own and whatever works for you. cheers Pat
- 3,515 replies
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- clipper
- hull model
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
BANYAN replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Those blocks look great Bitao, very nice work. Love that ropewalk. cheers Pat -
Nice work Steven, those new deadeyes look good, and as you stated, the whole arrangement looks a lot neater. cheers Pat
- 739 replies
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- Tudor
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
BANYAN replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You never fail to impress with your skills Bitao; lovely work as usual. cheers Pat -
A great way to display the model Rob, it is unique, has historical and practical relevance. cheers Pat
- 3,515 replies
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- clipper
- hull model
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Couldn't agree more Clipper, well commented. cheers Pat
- 3,515 replies
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Terry, I have found, that in this period, there were several variations of what were called "Trick" anchor release mechanisms in this period. If you would like a copy of what I have assembled please let me know and I will PM the info. cheers Pat
- 5 replies
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- anchor cleat
- brigantine
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Great collection of photos Keith. I find they help add a sense of realism to the model making process - I often find my reminiscing on what those times would have been like (please find me a way-back machine ). cheers Pat
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Brass Blackening Building Time Survey
BANYAN replied to Dave_E's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Joe, from my experience and what you describe, I think you need to dilute the blackening agent. A 100% solution often results in the process reacting too fast. Rather than etching the surface, it builds a layer of black sooty like residue which easily washes off. After proper cleaning /preparation, try using a 50/50 solution diluted with demineralised water/blackening agent. For small part I even go as low as 30/70 (70% water). The process takes slightly longer, but usually when you take the parts out and rinse, then buff them, you end up with a dark metallic grey finish. For a darker finish, leave it in a bit longer, or put it back in for a second dip. Hope this helps. Cheers Pat -
but Keith .... imagine what could be hidden behind the smoke from a full broadside. First salvo fired, let the iron balls fly... now there's an idea, add cannon balls on the fly cheers Pat [edit] Sorry Glen, couldn't help myself - they'll have to lock me up next.
- 177 replies
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- Independence
- bottle
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The planking (deck and side) looks good Marty. I would definitely seal the deck and sides with a coat of something. I used Testor's 'Dullcote' which is a flat varnish. I only used a single coating at this stage as you may need to scrape small sections back where you need to glue things to the deck. I am glad I sealed mine as it really protects the deck from the grime etc while working it. Dullcote allows touch up that just 'meld' in without any noticeable edges etc. Some people prefer waxes or oils, but I find the Dullcote easier to work with and gives a fairly realistic finish (not glossy). I also found you can put heavier duty final coats of finish over it without difficulty if you want a different finish. Choice of finish is yours though; good luck. I am not promoting Dullcote by any stretch of the imagination; just a happy user. cheers Pat
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I think I recall someone having that at small scales at Shapeways. I'll let you know if I find anything. [edit} - Found these - at wrong scale but as the artwork is done may print of in your scale? https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/ships?type=product&q=refueling+at+sea cheers Pat
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Looks great Rob, that's a novel and unique way to display her. cheers Pat
- 3,515 replies
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- clipper
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