BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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Very nice work Steven, amazing what you are producing with simple tools (and patience). cheers Pat -
The running end would need to factor in both the working room (length) needed to work the line, but also to allow the full/maximum extension of the tackle etc. Therefore the length of the 'tail' would vary. cheers Pat
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Hi, I have not modelled with card so please take my suggestion with a healthy dose of salt Have you tried making a jig onto which you can lay out and glue all the parts (waxed ply or the like) and using small pins and strips of wood as the form etc. With pins in the locations for the fall blocks etc would it be possible to layout the davit tackle/falls then use Mark's idea to set them? cheers Pat
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Hi Jim (assuming Jim?), One of the best references for rigging ships in this period is Underhill "Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean carrier". In this Underhill shows the dead-eyes turned in (the act of seizing the standing rigging round the outer score of the dead-eye). For wire or natural cordage shrouds the tail is shown seized back onto the shroud; and, provides some drawings of how it was done. As this book is in copyright I can't post pics etc here. For reeving hearts, there were several ways and for these the tail of the lanyards were seized back on themselves. These were sometimes used on some stays etc (especially on the bowsprit) but not usually the shrouds. Perhaps this may the source of confusion? cheers Pat
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That is a great painting mate. Amazing fact that although the number of sails was increased, the actual sail area was reduced. Do you know whether this was this intended to make sail handling easier, or reduce the strain on the masts or ...? cheers Pat
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I am always impressed with the quality of your work Amalio. The workmanship is simply stunning! cheers Pat
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Maybe small but still significant progress UV; the servings look good - tight and even. cheers Pat
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Sorry Rob, nope I didn't add sails (lazy ), but that technique should work well for you. cheers Pat
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Looking good Steve. I found buying the Isop.. cheaper in bulk at Bunnings - although I lost out on all my savings by buying other stuff cheers Pat
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The shrouds are looking good Rob. I used that technique (complete all mast by mast) with my Endeavour and found it worked well - only i worked from aft to forward as I found it gave me better access for rigging some of the stays etc. cheers Pat
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Hi Rod, generally there was symmetry; however, as usual there are some exceptions to the rule :(. Do you have Marquardt's rigging plan? cheers Pat
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Welcome back; I trust you have resolved all the issues so that you can concentrate on your build again. cheers Pat
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Hi Rod, some nice progress there. WRT to common pin for leech, bunt lines etc. I had a similar issue to resolve. Discussion and consensus appears to be that these lines for top, and top-gallant sails; all go to same pins for fore mast, and again to the same pins (not the foremast ones) for the main mast. This is so the crew can grab those lines at the same time apparently as both sails would likely have been worked at the same time. Hope that makes sense? cheers Pat
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Despite the trials and tribulations you seem to be coping very well Ben, the timbers all look well and truely aligned. cheers Pat
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Very nice work on the metalwork, and the strop making - all turned out very nicely. Love the new arms for the third hand! cheers Pat
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Very nice work Ed, I have been missing your regular updates. WRT the catenary, I had the same issue with my Endeavour but the other way around. Luckily I had left a catenary as they tautened up a bit :). cheers Pat
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Excellent quality work Michael; it looks very life-like (you must've needed a 'bosun's chair' to get at those top blocks ) cheers Pat
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Thanks guys, appreciate the support. Now to see if I can get my 'fat' fingers working and not break any parts Thanks for the Heads' up on the CA Carl, I'll see if I can find some. cheers Pat
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Wh has been a busy boy then Quite a bit of progress Denis and all looks good. cheers Pat
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Hull Hi all, after a prolonged delay in starting this build due to many 'life' and other build pressures, i have finally found an opportunity to make a start on this build. I have started assembling the main hull structure which came in 4 pieces. These hull parts fitted together very well once I removed one very minor joint fitting issue (needed to be trimmed/cut away), resulting in very tight joints that will require very little filling and sanding. Bogey is aware of the joint issue now and and will address the master 3D model accordingly. I have yet to fit the rudders and the propeller guards to the hull, but I have drilled out the two holes in the base to accept pedestal style display stands. There are also the propellers and the anchors to fit, but these will be done after painting the hull. I found the only CA that would work with this type of material was Loctite Pro, having tried at least 6 other brands. This was not due to residue or the like as i gave the parts a thorough was in wheel cleaning solution using a soft toothbrush to give them a gentle brush, then a clean a Ultrasonic bath for 4 minutes before rinsing and then air drying in the sun (which also helped to set the parts as they need UV to harden them). Initially I was put off with the parts appearing to get a white frosted coating but apparently this is normal and does not interfere with paint adhesion. Extreme care is needed when handling the parts as this material is very brittle but it sure does show fine detail very well. Not so evident n the attached photos but they will pop when the undercoat is applied. cheers Pat
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Thanks for the technique Rob, at some stage may be useful to collate these into a single document and put them on the database? Sorry, not trying to create even more work for you, but this is an interesting technique worth preserving. cheers Pat
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Exemplary work as usual Michael; looks great. Only three goes, you must be a master I usually need many more. cheers Pat
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