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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Thanks Vossie, I may have to adapt a mandrel to fit my 90 degree fitting as, with mine (NSK) I have the lever lock on that and the straight piece has a twist lock. Thanks for the info and links. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    I think you chose the best option incorrecting the channels UV, looking good and the shrouds will still look 'right' cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Nice work Vossie; looks good. I have a micro-motor with a 90 degree attachment but it has one of those swivel clamping levers at the top; does yours have that too? If so, then I am assuming you need the specialised accessories (sanding discs etc) to suit? Again, if so, where did you get your from, my searches are restricted to a few drill/cutters and the like. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Hi Eberhard and Michael, as with most of us, the aging eyes do struggle at times. I have just invested (still waiting for it to arrive) in a digital microscope (battery powered and no external connections required) that has a viewing screen incorporated (and not that expensive). I am hoping to use this with a swing arm etc., and also hopeful that not having to have my eye glued to an eyepiece or distracted looking at a separate PC monitor, but rather adjacent to the work I am doing, that it will allow me to work more comfortably and with a little more precision. This is to be a Christmas pressie, so I will let you all know how it goes once I have set it up and trialled it (and after the Admiral lets me open it ). cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Hi Rob, if you are adding the other stays and preventers to the other masts as you work aft, you may need to have at least one forward stay (even if not the final (position etc) to provide some resistance as you tension the others aft? I also did not do a final securing knot/bend on these until all was well settled so that I could adjust them if needed. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Stunning work Michael! I don't think I need to say more cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Hi Eberhard, great mini-project and the level of detail at such micro-scale will look great. Do you do your own etching? That fine mest will be something else, it will be interesting to see how that turns out. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Looking mighty fine there Rob, very realistic results with your lines. I wouldn't tidy the coils too much as, especially for often-used running rigging, these would not have been overly orderly/ship-shape anyway cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Another fine exemplar Ed; you are really 'ploughing the road for me - much appreciated. AS stated many times by many modellers - exceptional metal smithing! cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    At least you are still making progress Denis; and she is looking grand. WRT the rubber bands, it may also be that fumes, or contact with, the glue accelerated the deterioration of the bands - I replace them quite often because of this. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Hi Dashi, sorry I don't have sufficient knowledge in these things to provide a definitive response for you. However, your research results appear to be fairly categorical in the absence of the supporting evidence used by Marquardt for the AOTS. There may, or may not, have been a good reason for his choices. I would recommend an email to the Replica guys to see what they did and why also;that may assist in resolving your dilemma? I must admit, I simply followed the AOTS. I agree with your assumptions though that these smaller spars were relatively easy to replace with onboard spares with minimal shaping to adapt them for a specific purpose. When used, a suitable blank spar timber replacement could have been sourced in many of the places he visited including NZ. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Great work UV, that looks really well done. A complex task broken into smaller projects will get the job done cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Man that is some lovely work Rob; a joy to see. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Don't worry, I am sure I would earn the bosun's wrath if he were to look at my belaying (wrong pins, leads etc) There is a booklet that is provided to volunteers on the Endeavour (when sailing) that provides the rigging plan/belaying they use so that they can learn 'the ropes' - that is also very handy if you can get your hands on it. Unfortunately I have passed my copy to another builder. that said though, there are some differences with the replica as may have been the actual belay plan, as is Marquardt's interpretation - but it can't be too far wrong cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    TLAs, FLAs etc (Three Letter Acronyms, Four Letter Acronyms ...) When we went to a particular deployment back in the early 90s, one of the first things handed over by the USN was a book of Acronyms (A4 paper, double sided and over 2 inches thick!) cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Hi Rod, WRT the AOTS, the info is in the book, you just have to hunt around a bit. The main plans you need are the the Belaying Positions for Running Rigging (page 120) and Running Rigging drawing on page 102. By looking at individual lines etc on the detail drawings (pages in between) and these two you can determine where each of the running rigging lines lead and belay. For example if we take line 19 in detail drawing I1/2 (page 103), the legend informs us it is the Spritsail yard brace (the title of the legend tells us it is for the lower yard). Then if you go to the belaying plan on page 120, and find that line in the tabular listing to get the position number (item 11 in this case) then find that position on the plan and you see that it belays to a belaying pin in the foremast fiferail/crosspiece (third in from the port outer side). Not the best schema but it works, just need to find the appropriate drawings. The main purpose I use page 102 is to help identify the main running lines leads and positions. I photocopied copied the two main drawings and enlarged them considerably to make life easier. The same generally applies for standing rigging (pages 95-100) but here there is no horizant (plan) view but is fairly evident where the lines secured. I hope this helps; just holler if you need further clarification cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Nice work Patrick, she looks fabulous! Even though we know it is a 'micro' build, it is not until you show her in your 'giant' hand that we can visualize just how small these furnishings (and the model) are. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Thanks Eberhard, your advice is always most helpful. I used the sherline for turning the body of the pump with my duplicator (which needs some refinements for smaller work I found ). I really need to get my jewellers lathe up and running for this finer stuff - I have been lazy (well I could say too busy elsewhere) but I really need to do this sooner rather than later. I purchased some of that green pulley belting you recommended; now to set up the motor and get some decent attachments such as this double roller - excellent idea. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    I am very much enjoying your updates Michael; a great display of masterful modelling. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Yep, you better make sure you keep the lady happy otherwise you may find your fine build de-masted cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Hi again folks, no update for a while as I have been busy designing/drawing up the images for the PE I intend to use for the Victoria. this includes the chain plates, rigmaiden lanyards, patent purchase winches (halyard winches), handwheels for the downton pumps and winches, ventilation louvres and various brackets/straps. I have also made a start on the downton pumps - are these small? There were two of these (5") on the upper deck and another 7", probably engine driven, in the engine room There will be two suction plate assemblies between the pumps. I have managed to make three bodies that are relatively the same size (as best I could with my lathe) they are within .5 mm for height and diameter. With the spare, I experimented with the best way to fit the drive rod, onto which the round main turning handle, and the L shaped ancillary handle will fit. I need to find a better way to file the square onto one end of the rod (for the L handle) and I think I will do that before I cut it to length next time. i also need to try and make this outlet a bit smaller yet. This one is the spare as the bottom part of the barrel is slightly tapered and it should be straight. The photos show the spare pump with the rod, and the outlet spigot (two ended) with one end capped (as per the diagram as shown in the first photo). I have yet to clean this up properly but it is getting there; just need to add the round handle when they have been etched. The L handle will hang on the back of the engine room skylight. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    You're making some rapid progress there Rob; all is looking very good. We'll have a clipper under a full 'fit' of sail before we know it.
  23. BANYAN
    Nice progress Vossiwolf. I would not be too concerned with the gloss look. I had the same issue with a matt black on Endeavour where under lights etc it looked very shiny but to the eye in even lighting looked 'flat' - amazing how light can play such tricks! cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Another interesting subject matter you guys are building; look forward to seeing the combined efforts. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Mark, not sure but I think think you need the Pro (Platinum) version of TC to do that? cheers Pat

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