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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Some good progress made there Steven. I will be quite interested in how yo age these 'filler repairs', have you any ideas on that yet? cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    To echo Druxey - Magnificent! That rigging is a masterpiece of execution. I very much look forward to your next volume of the series. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Glacial or not, you have still achieved some significant progress and it is looking very good. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    A very nicely faired hull Keith; this will certainly give you the nice solid base for the planking you were after. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Nice design Dave; that will be a very nice case - what is the wood BTW (or did I miss that)? cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Thanks Patrick - I am sure I reserved a special place of punishment with my 'oaths' when doing these small pieces cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Simply beautiful! ..... and functional. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Nice to see the update UV; some good progress made there. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Jeffery, a little later than what you need for your period build, and Gregory for info, the only formula/rule-of-thumb I have found is for clippers (I knew I had seen something somewhere in my reading ) . E. Armatage McCann in his series of articles published in the Model Ship Builder magazine (originally in the The Ship Modeller magazine), titled "Rigging of Clipper Ships" - part 3, page 10 provides: "The steeve was 4 to 5-inches to the foot" using the length the bowsprit extending from the bed to the cap. Note this was for clipper ships of the 1850s. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Those knightheads look very crisp. Nice work. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Thanks for the feedback and confirming my thoughts Rob; much appreciated. Now I just have to settle on the final positions but I will leave that until I am well into the rigging plan. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Hi Rob, this is being built at 1:72. I just noted an error in the build title, thanks cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Now that's the way to 'get back into it' - double whammy it great to hear you sounding enthusiastic about it too Mark. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    I didn't think these old salts were that well dress-coordinated Stunning detail Michael, I love the brass lamp. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    A silver lining can be found in everything (well almost), glad you can get some 'bonus' detail from the rebuild. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    She's looking great Ben, you must be pleased to see her taking on some of her 'finish' now. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Very clean work Vossie; looks very crisp. cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    I am glad you asked as I seem to have gotten myself confused (reading far too many books at the moment while sorting the spars for my build). I am building a Gun Despatch Vessel steam-screw sloop which had an Aberdeen style bow and the steeve , when measured from the horizontal of the WL, was 15 degrees. It was Goodwin "The Construction and Fitting of the English Man-of-War" page 174 that provided the guidance I wrongly attributed to Underhill (memo to self - check before posting next time ) - basically, 25-30 degrees for ship-rigged vessels - smaller classes closer to horizontal. I dare not state more as this book is still in copyright and, sorry, I will need to check with moderators how much can be cited re copyright. I used underhill to get averages of the steerve angles, and angles of the caps for the 1850s, as he has many accurate drawings of clipper ships of many designs; hence my subliminal association. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    My sincere condolences also Eric. regards Pat
  20. BANYAN
    I think the owner will be very pleased with the product cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    No problem Marco, hope the info helps. WRT kinks, sometimes they are caused by one of the stock/source threads not being at the same tension - one of the most important things before starting to twist/turn is to ensure that all stock threads are equally tensioned. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Thanks Eberhard, that clears up my separate query to you cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Underhill also discusses the angles of the bowsprit in his book "Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Transport"; may be worth a read. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Hi Joe, if I recall correctly (but please check this as I may be confused with something else), the fence is set up/designed with a very slight taper away from the centre of the blade/arbor to minimise (not stop) binding; that is why Jim suggests tightening the inside lockdown first. BUT, that should not be effecting the cut as that should be at the leading edge of the blade not the back. I can only suggest that you have some saw blade flex either from the density or thickness of the wood or, induced by the feed speed. The only other possibilities, but I am sure you will have checked these is that the blade is not sitting parallel to the saw or the back end of the fence is moving while cutting. I invested in a dial indicator jig from Jim for checking this. I found that once or twice I have not seated the blade on the arbor correctly, but from what you have described you can probably discount this point. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Hi again Marco, Some do, and others don't like the use of wax ( I am a don't) If you wish to use it there are several ways, and please think about a 'conservator's wax rather than beeswax. I have found the latter remains sticky and holds dust especially in our hotter climate. Try something like Renaissance Conservators wax if preserving the natural cordage is important - beeswax tends to be too 'sticky' (but you may get valid counter-point debate on this topic). If applying as a 'solid' wax after making up the rope, you can either pull the rope through the wax a couple of times rotating the rope then rub in by pulling it through your fingers or lint free cloth with light pressure to warm it and get it to sit into the crevices better; or, apply the wax onto a lint free cloth and pull the rope through the waxed cloth. The other method is to make a jig (discussed somewhere in the forums) that allows you to melt the wax and pull the rope (or threads before making up the rope through the solution. Basically comprises two glass jars with tin lids that sit one inside the other and has wire guides protruding from the top of the inner jar as guides. The outer jar is filled with hot water and the inner the melted wax - the hot water keeps the wax in solution much longer. You may also find you need to dilute the wax with denatured alcohol or the like to get it to penetrate properly; beeswax will not penetrate unless highly diluted. These photos are from a member "Stelios' version of this jig. cheers Pat

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