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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Sounds like you have a good grip on the spur now Steven; enough to make a very good 'case/argument' for the iron sheathed spur. Look forward to seeing this fitted. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Ah, another form of a 'prayer wheel' (bent over using them as in saying prayers) - Interesting concept but all overtaken with calculators and the like these days
  3. BANYAN
    Nice work Greg, some very nice weathering effects you are showing - very realistic. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Nice work OC; she is really showing some great detail. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Great to hear UV. You can always spin the yarn that she shows the effects of battle damage (and you won ) cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Hi Steven, at this point I would suggest that my 'recollection' may have been from a post in a build log in an earlier iteration of MSW which was about a bireme or trireme - and most likely referred to the 'ram'. I think you are correct in your assumption/choice of the iron spur - I found the following in "The Age of the Galley" edited by Robert Gardiner (Conway Books) page 103 in the Chapter "From Dromon to Galea..." - I have omitted the greek terminology: "..The prow housed the ship's main offensive weapon, a flamethrower for Greek Fire, above which was a fortified foredeck. The prow also had a spur, referred to by the Anonymous by the classical Greek embulos, which was either made of iron or iron-clad. .." The source reference used for this is "Anonymous, #6.2: Eti de kai ..." This refers to an anonymous treatise commissioned by the Pariclios and Parakoimomennos 'Basil', dated c AD960. Apparently the anonymous author derived much of his information on ships from the Onomasticon of Julius Pollux c AD178. The information in the "The Age of the Galley" is an article in the Mariner's Mirror 79_4 (1993), pp387-92 which argued that dromons had spurs and not rams. I hope this helps ? Do you have that article from the MM? If you don't I do have it, and can get the relevant info for you (send me a PM) cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Nice work and a great idea on the slits Dave. Another thing that may help with maintaining spacing of the shrouds is to do the major ratlines (that go all the way across first, then fill in between. I think I did the bottom then the middle and then the top majors, then the intermediates. That helped me keep the spacing while I did the minors. If your current jig resolves the spacing issue ignore this ramble cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    I will have a look later today Steven; hopefully, find it but now that Carl mentioned the rams I am beginning to wonder whether this was the association n my befuddled brain get back to you soonest. cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Looks good Steven. WRT the spur coat I think recall reading somewhere that these were bronze; may be worthwhile investigating. If I find the source of the info I will let you know. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    Looks good Dave. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Great to see another update Ed; have been missing this wonderful example of model engineering Is your rule of thumb about seizings based on a real life rule you found? It does make a lot of sense. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Nice progress Dave; she is looking great - nearly there now cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Looks very good OC; some nice additional detail you are adding to her. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    😓 Glad to hear it was not a bigger disaster; I hope the heart has stopped racing. I did not hit the like button for obvious reasons. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Hi Peter, I recently did this for my current build (HMCSS Victoria) - see about half way down page 6. My waterways were a little more complicated and I had to mask the outer hull as well but there I used cheaper masking tape. I simply masked the deck and airbrushed, but brushing will also work. The trick is to use a very good quality masking tape on the deck edge (I use Tamiya) and ensure a good seal by burnishing with small rounded end picks/burnishing tools. cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Sounds like you have come to grips with the masts now Steven; look forward to seeing the results. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Look forward to the updates UV cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Enjoy your trip Rod; sounds like an interesting and enjoyable cruise. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    I use a combination of an adjustable table and a working rest. The photo shows this jig (arm rest). The jig was made by my mentor and he passed it onto me. It can be adjusted for height as required and I can rest my arms on the upper bar to work more comfortably at height. I have added a small tool tray to the lower bar (not shown). The adjustable table allows me to get the overall height correct and this jig can then be adjusted for the height of the rigging you are working on - works for me cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    What a wonderful catalog of work you have achieved Karl; a collection worthy of display in any Museum! I have especially enjoyed you build journey on this build. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    I have no idea how it may actually been set up Steven, simply looking at the mechanical aspects. The double sheave calcet has merit as Woodrat has described. Even with a hefty crew there would have been minimal manning of the upper deck as the oarsman would still be required until the sail has been hoisted, and immediately available when the sail is lowered. Then again they may have employed the archers etc to assist in this task, so assess this option with a 'grain of salt' I think a single block at deck level would have been sufficient with the standing end of the tackle attached to a becket on the top of the single block, led up to one sheave in the calcet, back down and through the single block then back up through the other sheave in the calcet, with the crew then working the running end of the tackle. This set-up would have allowed a much more 'controlled' and faster method of raising and lowering. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Great to see sher has found a good home where she is appreciated and has a wider admiration society Sjors. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    A great achievement and an educational tutorial on how to do a restoration - many thanks Michael it has been a pleasure following this log. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Hi Steven, what Dick maybe alluding to is the angle at which you have drilled the holes into the 'blob'? Sorry if I have read too much into your comment Dick. If the mast is angled then the rope should enter and depart the sheave holes on the axis of 'pull' (directly down?) such that the rope does not chafe on the edges of the holes for the sheave? being square on at the moment you may find the lower one might not be a clean entry? looking good! cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    You're making great progress Rod; looking good. If it is not too late, leave the swivels off until you have your shrouds, backstays etc and rattlin done, some of them may get in the way cheers Pat

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