Jump to content

BANYAN

SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • Posts

    5,779
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Great work Daniel, very symmetrical layout on the framing. cheers Pat
  2. Great work on the boats Danny, they look great. Could you fix the tiller by cutting off the squared extension and replace with some brass wire/rod of suitable scale? cheers Pat
  3. Hi folks, another update; not much but some progress. I am being slowed b research at the moment. The steering platform is now complete and fitted over an inverted 'A' Frame - the rapson slide (not shown) slides across under the platform between the legs of the frame at the position of the cable drum. The steering compass cabinet is complete but just dry fitted. The compass cover (pewter aftermarket part cut from its pedestal) is also only dry fitted. If we use this it will be painted brass. We are trying to make this by 'spinning' on a lathe to get the base form. The hammock platform around the funnel has now been completed. This is only 11mm high to give some idea of size so this is a 'close-up' which shows all the 'detail' not visible to the naked eye As best as I can determine, there was only an outer rail. the hammocks are stacked vertically and I assumed some are lashed to the rails for stability? An inner ring would not work due to space and access issues. When the original photo is zoomed right in, the stanchions and 4 rails are very clear. I have used black cotton in-lieu of wire for the rails as, at this scale it was impossible to keep the shape of the 0.4mm wire without deformation as I bent it around and through the stanchion holes. The stanchions are after-market. The companion has also been fitted in place. I have also made a steam whistle (a little early for a steam horn which did not appear for another decade or so (as best I can determine). This was made from a tube with a rounded solid upper plug, and a bit of rod rounded and shaped to accept the actuator handle at one end - this was drilled through to accept the whistle and is intended to represent the steam cock valve. The spigot at the base is a locating pin. The photo of the whistle itself shows the item before cleaning and some polishing - this will be left brass. The ruler in the photo is in mm. cheers Pat
  4. Looking forward to these updates cheers Pat
  5. Sounds like you have a good grip on the spur now Steven; enough to make a very good 'case/argument' for the iron sheathed spur. Look forward to seeing this fitted. cheers Pat
  6. Ah, another form of a 'prayer wheel' (bent over using them as in saying prayers) - Interesting concept but all overtaken with calculators and the like these days
  7. Nice work Greg, some very nice weathering effects you are showing - very realistic. cheers Pat
  8. Great to hear UV. You can always spin the yarn that she shows the effects of battle damage (and you won ) cheers Pat
  9. Hi Steven, at this point I would suggest that my 'recollection' may have been from a post in a build log in an earlier iteration of MSW which was about a bireme or trireme - and most likely referred to the 'ram'. I think you are correct in your assumption/choice of the iron spur - I found the following in "The Age of the Galley" edited by Robert Gardiner (Conway Books) page 103 in the Chapter "From Dromon to Galea..." - I have omitted the greek terminology: "..The prow housed the ship's main offensive weapon, a flamethrower for Greek Fire, above which was a fortified foredeck. The prow also had a spur, referred to by the Anonymous by the classical Greek embulos, which was either made of iron or iron-clad. .." The source reference used for this is "Anonymous, #6.2: Eti de kai ..." This refers to an anonymous treatise commissioned by the Pariclios and Parakoimomennos 'Basil', dated c AD960. Apparently the anonymous author derived much of his information on ships from the Onomasticon of Julius Pollux c AD178. The information in the "The Age of the Galley" is an article in the Mariner's Mirror 79_4 (1993), pp387-92 which argued that dromons had spurs and not rams. I hope this helps ? Do you have that article from the MM? If you don't I do have it, and can get the relevant info for you (send me a PM) cheers Pat
  10. Nice work and a great idea on the slits Dave. Another thing that may help with maintaining spacing of the shrouds is to do the major ratlines (that go all the way across first, then fill in between. I think I did the bottom then the middle and then the top majors, then the intermediates. That helped me keep the spacing while I did the minors. If your current jig resolves the spacing issue ignore this ramble cheers Pat
  11. I will have a look later today Steven; hopefully, find it but now that Carl mentioned the rams I am beginning to wonder whether this was the association n my befuddled brain get back to you soonest. cheers Pat
  12. Looks good Steven. WRT the spur coat I think recall reading somewhere that these were bronze; may be worthwhile investigating. If I find the source of the info I will let you know. cheers Pat
  13. Great to see another update Ed; have been missing this wonderful example of model engineering Is your rule of thumb about seizings based on a real life rule you found? It does make a lot of sense. cheers Pat
  14. Nice progress Dave; she is looking great - nearly there now cheers Pat
  15. Looks very good OC; some nice additional detail you are adding to her. cheers Pat
  16. 😓 Glad to hear it was not a bigger disaster; I hope the heart has stopped racing. I did not hit the like button for obvious reasons. cheers Pat
  17. Hi Peter, I recently did this for my current build (HMCSS Victoria) - see about half way down page 6. My waterways were a little more complicated and I had to mask the outer hull as well but there I used cheaper masking tape. I simply masked the deck and airbrushed, but brushing will also work. The trick is to use a very good quality masking tape on the deck edge (I use Tamiya) and ensure a good seal by burnishing with small rounded end picks/burnishing tools. cheers Pat
  18. Sounds like you have come to grips with the masts now Steven; look forward to seeing the results. cheers Pat
  19. Enjoy your trip Rod; sounds like an interesting and enjoyable cruise. cheers Pat
  20. I use a combination of an adjustable table and a working rest. The photo shows this jig (arm rest). The jig was made by my mentor and he passed it onto me. It can be adjusted for height as required and I can rest my arms on the upper bar to work more comfortably at height. I have added a small tool tray to the lower bar (not shown). The adjustable table allows me to get the overall height correct and this jig can then be adjusted for the height of the rigging you are working on - works for me cheers Pat
  21. What a wonderful catalog of work you have achieved Karl; a collection worthy of display in any Museum! I have especially enjoyed you build journey on this build. cheers Pat
×
×
  • Create New...