Jump to content

BANYAN

SPECIAL CONTRIBUTOR
  • Posts

    5,591
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Thanks for the very kind words and encouragement Russ, Ed, Jason, Carl and Eberhard. Compliments from you guys, noting the exquisite work you do, is very much appreciated. regards Pat
  2. Just found your build log and to say I am impressed is a very large understatement - superb modelling skills! I will be following with interest. cheers Pat
  3. I have also started on the boiler space skylight and funnel platform. The photo shows progress to date with one hatch and one grating placed, and the funnel dry fitted in-situ. I have also attached two photos showing some of the detail for making the gratings (one on each corner) which are open to the weather to ensure adequate air for the boilers to draw. When shut down, a tarp was drawn over the top. The other photo shows the corner of the skylight taken from one of very few photos of the ship which confirms the grate is open; the metal batten pins can just be made out - I will add these later. To make the grate, I first cut 4 lengths (sized to fit the opening) with my chop saw, I then stack these with a bit of double sided tape between layers then drill the holes with mill using a sensitive drill attachment. I then stain and varnish the wood, thread the blackened brass rod (0.5mm) and use a touch of CA to hold the rod ends in place - the whole assembly is press fitted into the opening. cheers Pat
  4. Hi folks some further small details added. i have now attached all of the cleats, some eyebolts and the ready-use shot garlands, along with the leadsman's platform and the port hawse hole bucklar. The leadsman's platform will have two stanchions added with a strap between them into which he would have leaned when tossing and retrieving the leadline. The ladder needs to be redone as the forward rope top knot came loose (cut too close ) You can also see the heads and pissdales fitted, with the port side head shown closed and stbd open. I have also added some detail to the catheads. The photo is hard to discern detail from but the release mechanism has been fitted with the chain (in the released position). I am still not sure whether to lead the pull rope for the locking pin up and over the rail as shown or to remove it as it doesn't seem to sit right. It would have been there as it would be simply to dangerous for a man to climb out (the chain would whip back and catch him when released if he did so. The chain is 29l.p.i and as a size indicator is that the portholes (actually Lang's scuttles) are only 2mm diameter - so this is ultra close up. cheers Pat
  5. Great job on the ovens Mark; I am sure the wine store was equally well proportioned cheers Pat
  6. and with a vivid imagination and the considerable CAD skills to make it work You have done well to get that shape Patrick. cheers Pat
  7. Your work continues to astound for the level of detail and the quality you achieve at this scale Ed. Your posts educate and show what is possible. cheers Pat
  8. The end result looks great Greg despite the frustrations and tribulations Those masts are just full of electronics, aerials and cables; you have a done a nice neat job of it especially at that scale. cheers Pat
  9. Boy have you been busy with your cut and paste Denis - she sure brings a smile to my face seeing this one posted again. cheers Pat
  10. All of your work is very well finished to such a high quality Amalio, not a hint of 'fuzz' on your rope or finished wood. I very much enjoy your updates to see what can be achieved. cheers Pat
  11. Great seeing this fun project come back to life Dennis; that is a very nice paint finish on the hull. cheers Pat
  12. Hi again Steven, before I had access to using a mill I used guide blocks. With them I would place the hull of the model in a cradle that I ensured had a flat bottom and 90deg (squared) sides, which I then fix under an industrial sized mill a mate owns. Once aligned I can be sure the holes are in a straight line fore-and-aft, and we can also set the angle of each mast rake via a tilting table. WRT the guide blocks, I used small perfectly squared blocks of wood which I again align and drill under a smaller mill. I then use the resulting hole in the block to guide/transfer drilling the hole in the hull. For one job I also cut a channel in the drilled block to sit over the keelson to help align it for and aft to ensure the rake was in the right direction. A form of that method (without using a mill) may be one way to go - that is drill a guide block first? Your model is much more delicate and the holes deeper in the hull than my models so the bigger mill idea won't be of much help. Good luck, I will be interested to see how this develops/works out for you. cheers Pat
  13. An interesting build Omega. As this is so far out of my modelling domain it will be a very informative build to follow. cheers Pat
  14. A very time consuming effort Steven but well worth it. As a matter of interest what do you use as a guide to achieve the angle of the rake when cutting your holes in the mast step? cheers Pat
  15. This brings back some great memories Denis - I am enjoying the log twice over So will the M&M hibachi join the fun and games on the deck? cheers Pat
  16. Hi John, I haven't looked in before now much to my loss. Great model of an unusual modelling subject. Ypur model looks great and I love all the additional detail you have added. cheers Pat
  17. Even more impressive when noting at 1:72 - are you doing the same on the other model at smaller scale again Ed? cheers Pat
  18. Hi Keith - as an Aussie this made me smile - Melbourne (even this far south of the equator) often gets to high 30s and even 40s on occasion Very nice work with your mill - I just wish I had your tooling skills as there are so many jigs I wish to make. cheers Pat
  19. Ditto Druxey - your craftsmanship is of a very high standard. cheers Pat
×
×
  • Create New...