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Gregory

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  • Birthday 01/15/1949

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  1. I’m sure a lot of instructions call for that kind of construction, but it’s fairly easy to do something like glue a small diameter dowel to the inside corners and place holes where needed in the deck. In the end, it’s what works best for you. For free standing parts like fife rails and such it’s a matter of coming up with a pinning solution. I’d be happy to provide an example If you would like.
  2. I can’t think of any situation where I would glue anything directly to the deck. There would be some kind of pinning process that penetrated the deck, so that the finnish of the deck is not a factor.
  3. What kind of estimate are you getting for the refurbishing? If you found a model like this in restored condition, in an antique store, I would be surprised if they would be asking more the $200. The value of something like this, is more as a family keepsake than a fine piece of art.
  4. Here is a link to Chuck's stropping tutorial that @JacquesCousteau referred to. Block Stropping You might find a block stropped with a hook would be a better fit than the way the plans show. Will be easier to work with than having the line & block tied to the gaff.
  5. I don’t like to paint, so I look for different woods for contrast. I don’t have tools for milling beyond what I can do with my Proxxon FET. I have a laser for detail work. I go to Ocooch Hardwoods for exotic sheets . I like Rockler and Woodcraft for veneer. I’ll post some samples later of different colors I have used.
  6. I just figured out this device is not available for purchase yet. You who are interested might offer your suggestions to make it better.
  7. FWIW You can download the instructions for Cheerful at the Syren site which will provide a lot of rigging detail. Glenn's Cheerful logs is a great go-to for rigging also.
  8. If I were building the model I would combine information from the AOTS book and the movie replicas. This also sounds like the kind of information a competent builder would do the research for. PS The discussion you linked to above should be as good as it gets here at MSW.
  9. In my opinion it's very easy to set up. Just takes seconds to adjust the fence. Takes a few minutes to change blades- 10-15 max. I've never had a big project like strip cutting that it didn't do well. You will want to source some blades besides the Proxxon. Now, I'm talking about the FET.. I don't see the smaller KS 115 being a good choice for ship modeling.
  10. I have an identical setup as yours including the rod modification. The one shown above from Innocraftsman, while it looks well made, looks limited in its usefulness. The clearance between the head and the table as well as no apparent head travel stop setting.
  11. Table saw: $80 on Amazon The quality is probably adequate for small modeling jobs. Probably not up to precision thin strip ripping for planking. There are several variations as you will see on Amazon. I haven't seen anyone here talking about having one. Drill Press $90 on Amazon. There was a discussion about it here: Innocraftsman is just another storefront for a lot of those China sourced tools. Their prices are considerably more than other places like Amazon, Temu, Ali Express and others.
  12. Whatever you are seeing on Facebook can probably be found on a site you would be more comfortable with like Amazon or Walmart These 'cheap' tools are all coming from China and can be found on may different sites. I never click through adds on Facebook because scams are rampant there. Checking here at MSW is always a good screening process.
  13. Those reef points on the model seem to be artistic license. It doesn't look to me, in light of the brails, the sail would lend itself to being reefed at that point. Then there was druxey's comment. P.S. I'm a little miffed now, because I built my Mary with those reef points because the sail drawn on the plans included them.
  14. Mamoli traditionally has little in the way of useful instructions - how to - for inexperienced wooden kit builders. The original Mamoli plans were large 2-sided drawings that provided numbered part lists . The illustrations showed you how the various parts should look after assembly. Dusek has copied those plans on to several 16 x 12 sheets as well as at least one full size landscape view of the model. This is what the plans and instructions look like. The rigging instructions will look like this. Hope this helps.
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