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Gregory

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About Gregory

  • Birthday 01/15/1949

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  1. In my opinion it's very easy to set up. Just takes seconds to adjust the fence. Takes a few minutes to change blades- 10-15 max. I've never had a big project like strip cutting that it didn't do well. You will want to source some blades besides the Proxxon. Now, I'm talking about the FET.. I don't see the smaller KS 115 being a good choice for ship modeling.
  2. I have an identical setup as yours including the rod modification. The one shown above from Innocraftsman, while it looks well made, looks limited in its usefulness. The clearance between the head and the table as well as no apparent head travel stop setting.
  3. Table saw: $80 on Amazon The quality is probably adequate for small modeling jobs. Probably not up to precision thin strip ripping for planking. There are several variations as you will see on Amazon. I haven't seen anyone here talking about having one. Drill Press $90 on Amazon. There was a discussion about it here: Innocraftsman is just another storefront for a lot of those China sourced tools. Their prices are considerably more than other places like Amazon, Temu, Ali Express and others.
  4. Whatever you are seeing on Facebook can probably be found on a site you would be more comfortable with like Amazon or Walmart These 'cheap' tools are all coming from China and can be found on may different sites. I never click through adds on Facebook because scams are rampant there. Checking here at MSW is always a good screening process.
  5. Those reef points on the model seem to be artistic license. It doesn't look to me, in light of the brails, the sail would lend itself to being reefed at that point. Then there was druxey's comment. P.S. I'm a little miffed now, because I built my Mary with those reef points because the sail drawn on the plans included them.
  6. Mamoli traditionally has little in the way of useful instructions - how to - for inexperienced wooden kit builders. The original Mamoli plans were large 2-sided drawings that provided numbered part lists . The illustrations showed you how the various parts should look after assembly. Dusek has copied those plans on to several 16 x 12 sheets as well as at least one full size landscape view of the model. This is what the plans and instructions look like. The rigging instructions will look like this. Hope this helps.
  7. The Mamoli rigging plan had the lines indicated here for furling. I suppose they have a formal name that I do no know.
  8. @Cleat Would you say Vcarve does a good job of converting a 2D image into a3D surface for carving?
  9. I remember someone mentioning a CA that is not as volatile as most. I’ll see if I can dig up the reference.
  10. Great start on your re-boot of that model. Let me know if I'm cluttering up your log too much, but you have really got me thinking about going forward with my Mary II.. I found this superb link to a model by Lloyd McCaffery. There are a couple of downloadable PDF's of some of the details and also contemporary reference drawings/painting. Mamoli did a great job of creating the details of this kit.
  11. Great! Here is a link to a 3D model of the wreck. It's included in the linked article but I thought I would provide a shortcut.. Schooner Trinidad (1867-1881) - 3D model by Zach Whitrock (@Whitrzac) [3d14b04]
  12. Did you by chance check out " Mesh Cam ". Your experience with VCarve has me leaning in that direction, but Mesh Cam looks pretty robust also. I like this info from their web site:
  13. You made me dig out my digital copy of that Ships in Scale volume to confirm it's a great article. I have my 2nd Mary kit on the shelf and look forward to getting around to it some day. There is a Mary-like model of a ship called Max Emanuel built by Theodor Klaas. It has some amazing detail that I would strive to incorporate on my next Mary Max Emanuel One of the detail images.
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