Gregory
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vossiewulf reacted to a post in a topic:
Wood Glues
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Thanks for that.. Just when I think i have everything I will ever need... -
Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
Albatros by Dr PR - Mantua - Scale 1:48 - Revenue Cutter kitbash about 1815
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Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
PHOENIX 1787 by ccoyle - Master Korabel - 1/72 - Russian brigantine of the Black Sea Fleet
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Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
Armed Virginia Sloop by CiscoH - Model Shipways - 1:48
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catopower reacted to a post in a topic:
Rattlesnake 1782 by Gregory - Scale 1:48 - Plans Developed From Line Drawings by Howard Chapelle
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catopower reacted to a post in a topic:
Wood Glues
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Any good wood-working glue should qualify as " Best " . Planking method is just as important as the glue you use. If the plank is shaped properly you can get by with relatively short clamping times. Titebond original sets up in about 30 minutes, but still recommends overnight to cure. The different versions of Titebond have different purposes, but they all glue wood together very well. Titebond The most trouble you will have is when you have a straight plank that you have forced on a curved surface. It will have to be clamped for hours. If you look at these planking videos, you will see how to shape the planks so you do not have to force the planks onto the model. Chuck Passaro's planking Videos - In the videos, Chuck is using CA. "Best" is relative to experience and personal preference. I prefer CA ( super glue ) in most situations, just to avoid clamping and having to wait so much to proceed with work. Working effectively with CA takes some practice to get use to working with. For planking you need to use a medium or thick formula, not the thin stuff. Here are some more planking technique resources. Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos - Model Ship World™
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Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
Idea about the gallery function.
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miloman reacted to a post in a topic:
Need 3/32 x 3/32 cherry or 1/8 x 1/8 cherry
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Jack12477 reacted to a post in a topic:
Idea about the gallery function.
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Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
Need AL HMS Bounty rigging instructions
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Old Collingwood reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Greyhound by Srenner - Corel - 1:100
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Old Collingwood reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Greyhound by Srenner - Corel - 1:100
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According to Lees it should pass to the right (starboard).
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Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Greyhound by Srenner - Corel - 1:100
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thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
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Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
Idea about the gallery function.
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Justin P. reacted to a post in a topic:
Idea about the gallery function.
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You can post a video in a build log. Why would a video in the Gallery be more informative than a few well chosen pictures. I personally don't care for a video, even in a build log. You have to watch the whole thing to find an interesting view, then you have to pause and/or rewind to get a good look at what you are interested in.
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Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Constitution by Flyfisher - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:96
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Gregory reacted to a post in a topic:
Hello with first question on my first build
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Knocklouder reacted to a post in a topic:
Hello with first question on my first build
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scissors, shears, cutters for rigging
Gregory replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have the same problem (OCD), so my solution is to use polyester thread/line and I use a small pointed soldering iron to make the nibs disappear. -
Hello with first question on my first build
Gregory replied to Ratdude's topic in New member Introductions
What is your first build going to be? -
If you haven’t finished shopping yet, make sure you look towards the bottom of the “specialty block “ listings, and check out the boxwood build yourself deadeyes. There’s nothing else out there to compare.
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Not as easily obtainable . There may be some on HIS Model. You can look on eBay, but the source will be China from questionable vendors who also deal in pirated kits. Syren also has the best prices.
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Once you get them laced up, I don’t think it’s that noticeable. It’s really a matter of what makes you happy. Those outside the modeling community would never notice unless you pointed it out. Most kits lack a lot of accurate detail. If you make the deadeyes perfect, what about all the other detail?
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Having bought a lot of kits over the years, I don’t recall the deadeyes ever being consistent, except for the metal ones from BlueJacket. This was true of blocks also. 3D Printing has really changed the game.
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What are you calling "backwards"? Facing the ladder or back to the ladder?
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I’ve seen them on contemporary models without hand rails. I assume they held on to the sides or the back of the rungs as needed. These are men who had no problem scrambling around in the rigging on a rolling ship.
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Good catch.. I didn't realize he sold those.
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Joe ( Modelers SawMill ) will not have those dimensions at the WEB site, but send him an email with your needs, and chances are he will do a custom job for you.
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Does anyone know what this rigging is called?
Gregory replied to RobMann79's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I have never heard that explanation before. In this discussion: Question on use of crowsfeet on ship rigged vessels - Masting, rigging and sails - Model Ship World™ It is suggested that " ..Crowsfeet were designed to prevent the foot of the fore and main topsails from getting caught under the tops. " That is what I have always understood their purpose to be. This image from another discussion, shows how it was rigged. Here is another post that shows a little more detail of how it was rigged. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/2293-rattlesnake-by-jsgerson-finished-mamoli-164-using-robert-hunt’s-practicum/?do=findComment&comment=333009
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