Gregory
-
Posts
3,042 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Gregory
-
I have seen kit instructions that actually call for this.. -
Once the outer planking first layer is in place, those frames can be thinned as much as you need to..
-
Typically on kits, the strength of the bulkhead gunwales extensions come from the planking; inside and out. You should see the ModelShipways Rattlesnake. I have stopped counting how many I have had to replace. They are only 1/8" @ 1:48. Additionally, reinforcing those pieces can interfere with gun port framing.
-
What reference is this? Rope measurements were typically circumference, but I have seen exceptions. What does your table say for breeching on 6 pounder? Lavery says the breechings for 4 and 6 pounders were 4 inch circumference.. The tackle was 2 inch for less than 24 pounds.
-
Makes no difference to me.. What matters, is how oakheart wishes to proceed.. There seems to be a lot of differences of interpretations of these ship's boat plans. Some seem to worry about the smallest detail, but I have yet to see anyone model the details of transom construction. Most seem content to show it as one big piece, when it surely wasn't built that way. I plan to address this with my build.
-
You can get by without the rabbet by fitting the garboard flush with the keel. However you haven't established a bearding line which is where the planking merges with the sternpost. In the rough version of your image, the red shows how the keel would run to the stern post, the the blue line is the garboard ( 1st ) plank, followed by the 2nd. The bearding line would merge with the rabbet if it were present so the ends of the planks are flush with the keel and stern post. Here is another example from Chuck's Medway where I have penciled in a rough bearding area. The bearding line is defined where the bottom of the frames in the stern area meet the keel/deadwood area.
-
Chuck is generous with his skills and knowledge. The instructions for the kits he designed at Syren and ModelShipways are practicums, worth the cost of many kits.
-
While Chuck provided spiled planks in his Medway Longboat, it is my go-to for planking these type of boat. Particularly the garboard. A good guide is for it to run to where the stem just starts to curve up.. Chuck has made the monograph chapters available at Syren.. A great resource. https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/medway-longboat-1742.php You will see a good example of how to establish the bending of the plank. It has to be done by spiling.
-
Try Googling " custom laser cutting ". You will see any number of businesses that offer this service.
-
Looking for Rattlesnake instructions
Gregory replied to rattle snake corvette's topic in Wood ship model kits
Can you confirm this is the " Mamoli " kit. Are you saying you have none of the plans/drawings? With Mamoli, there is not a separate instruction book. All of the instructions are part of the plan drawings. You can contact Dusek ship models, who is now the producer of Mamoli kits. http://www.dusekshipkits.com/contact If you do not have the Mamoli kit we need to clarify. -
I 2nd this.. All of the items you mention can be found on Amazon.
-
I think it may be seen in the first image at the rear of the base.
-
I really can't see your photo very well. If you try to match the look in the image I provided, you should be OK.
-
The garboard is a plank. It is the first plank along the keel. It should be glued to the frames and fit flush against the keel if a rabbet is not provided where the keel meets the frames. In a typical kit, the garboard strake runs the full length of the keel. Here is a good example from Chuck's Medway Longboat. Typically it should end just before the stem begins to curve upward. The following planks will be placed against the garboard, and you don't want them to have pronounced curve upward. You will want them to run straight toward the stem. Of course there will be some curving of the following planks, but this will be determined by the run of the planking in general.
-
Looking for correctly scaled lines and rope
Gregory replied to Michael Smith's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
1:155 Will be a bit challenging, particularly for the smaller sizes.. This may be a case of " what looks good, is good.. " How many different sizes does the model call for... Say it is 5 sizes.. I would go to ropes of scale, or Syren, and choose their 5 smallest sizes. I would then compare them to how they would look on your model.. This chart at Syren may be of some help.. https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/resources/Suren Ultra Scale Rope Size chart.pdf -
What's easier?
Gregory replied to Srenner's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
One might consider the free version of Fusion 360.. -
Just curious why it makes a difference.. Are you banned in one of those states? 😁
-
Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Petersson might be a good reference for this model..
-
Not many options for this in wood ship modeling.. You might take a look at this: Not to label you as a rank beginner, but there is some great information there about getting started in wood ship modeling..
-
Another one of my projects on the shelf that I hope to tackle some day. I will be watching your progress with interest. You may have already discovered this, but I find Pete Jaquith's log to be an excellent resource. He moved that bulkhead also.
-
Planking improvement
Gregory replied to Picard's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
While it might be a little late for this build, the instructions for the Syren Ship Model Medway Long boat, available here: https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/medway-longboat-1742.php is a great planking guide for this and similar builds. While the Medway Longboat kit provides pre-spilled planks, the same results can be achieved with edge bending. The videos found here: Will show you how to bend planks to make them lay flat on a curved bow and avoid the gaps you refer to up above. The same thing can be achieved with spiling, but spiling may not be practical with a kit, where wider stock for cutting your own planks has not been provided.
-
I think we need more information.
-
I Quoted Bob also.. My response happened after your post, so may have appeared to be responding to you, but I was responding to Bob.
-
If you noted in my post you quoted, I didn't speculate that they didn't have compasses, to the contrary, I suggested that they did. I discussed the lack of binnacles, as I have not seen any on contemporary models of cutters.
-
Some boats, like cutters may not have had binnacles because they were resigned to channel duty, and it was a piece of equipment they didn't need, and didn't need to worry about maintenance. Other ships or boats may have been part of a fleet and they relied on other ships to get them to where they were going. At minimum the captain or other officer had a compass somewhere that could be used when required. Last but not least, a kit manufacturer didn't bother to include it and/or they were following drawings that didn't include it. As a standard piece of equipment on many ships, it may not have been included in the drawings because it was assumed the ship would be fitted with one. I certainly don't have the final word so perhaps others will chime in.
Our Emblem ®
