Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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From the link: "The Ropewalk Machine itself is no longer available"
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This is another excerpt from the Magoun book. While nothing specific, the impression I get from the book is that it w as an English built ship. I have no knowledge of the expertise of R.C. Anderson.
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Roger, The Mayflower was possibly built before 1600 and definitely before 1620 . Is there any good reason to believe the capstan location was similar to a Basque built ship of 1780?
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In the book " The Frigate Constitution And Other Historic Ships " F. Alexander Magoun has a chapter on the Mayflower. The information seems to be based on standards for similar vessels, with no mention of documented facts, but he speaks of some features as if they are facts. He offers a plan for the deck. I have circled where he shows the ' Stove Pipe ' However, he wrote of a 'galley' that must be under the forecastle deck show above. This is what he writes about the pumps. The ' gun deck ' would have been below what he shows as ' The Waist ' in the plan above, so the pumps he describes would not have been visible if your model is similar. Here is what he says about the capstan. It seems unlikely that the bars would have been mounted permanently, but others may know if it was in fact the practice on these type of boats. There is no mention of a binnacle, so it is possible just a compass in a box was used as needed. In lieu of other trusted sources, I think you will be safe in following these suggestions, and making it look good to satisfy your goal. I notice in the image Allan provided you can see the kettle and pumps as Magoun describes, but with the capstan forward of the main mast.
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Feibig is alcohol based, and I have used it successfully on polyester line.. I would think using it before making the hanks would be best.
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That would cause a problem with porosity..😁 Your suggestion might fix that...
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For PVA or CA not to work suggests a problem with lack of porosity.. Sounds like the wood is sealed one way or another.
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I have seen kit instructions that actually call for this..
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Once the outer planking first layer is in place, those frames can be thinned as much as you need to..
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Typically on kits, the strength of the bulkhead gunwales extensions come from the planking; inside and out. You should see the ModelShipways Rattlesnake. I have stopped counting how many I have had to replace. They are only 1/8" @ 1:48. Additionally, reinforcing those pieces can interfere with gun port framing.
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What reference is this? Rope measurements were typically circumference, but I have seen exceptions. What does your table say for breeching on 6 pounder? Lavery says the breechings for 4 and 6 pounders were 4 inch circumference.. The tackle was 2 inch for less than 24 pounds.
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Makes no difference to me.. What matters, is how oakheart wishes to proceed.. There seems to be a lot of differences of interpretations of these ship's boat plans. Some seem to worry about the smallest detail, but I have yet to see anyone model the details of transom construction. Most seem content to show it as one big piece, when it surely wasn't built that way. I plan to address this with my build.
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You can get by without the rabbet by fitting the garboard flush with the keel. However you haven't established a bearding line which is where the planking merges with the sternpost. In the rough version of your image, the red shows how the keel would run to the stern post, the the blue line is the garboard ( 1st ) plank, followed by the 2nd. The bearding line would merge with the rabbet if it were present so the ends of the planks are flush with the keel and stern post. Here is another example from Chuck's Medway where I have penciled in a rough bearding area. The bearding line is defined where the bottom of the frames in the stern area meet the keel/deadwood area.
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Chuck is generous with his skills and knowledge. The instructions for the kits he designed at Syren and ModelShipways are practicums, worth the cost of many kits.
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While Chuck provided spiled planks in his Medway Longboat, it is my go-to for planking these type of boat. Particularly the garboard. A good guide is for it to run to where the stem just starts to curve up.. Chuck has made the monograph chapters available at Syren.. A great resource. https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/medway-longboat-1742.php You will see a good example of how to establish the bending of the plank. It has to be done by spiling.
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Try Googling " custom laser cutting ". You will see any number of businesses that offer this service.
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Looking for Rattlesnake instructions
Gregory replied to rattle snake corvette's topic in Wood ship model kits
Can you confirm this is the " Mamoli " kit. Are you saying you have none of the plans/drawings? With Mamoli, there is not a separate instruction book. All of the instructions are part of the plan drawings. You can contact Dusek ship models, who is now the producer of Mamoli kits. http://www.dusekshipkits.com/contact If you do not have the Mamoli kit we need to clarify. -
I 2nd this.. All of the items you mention can be found on Amazon.
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I think it may be seen in the first image at the rear of the base.
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I really can't see your photo very well. If you try to match the look in the image I provided, you should be OK.
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The garboard is a plank. It is the first plank along the keel. It should be glued to the frames and fit flush against the keel if a rabbet is not provided where the keel meets the frames. In a typical kit, the garboard strake runs the full length of the keel. Here is a good example from Chuck's Medway Longboat. Typically it should end just before the stem begins to curve upward. The following planks will be placed against the garboard, and you don't want them to have pronounced curve upward. You will want them to run straight toward the stem. Of course there will be some curving of the following planks, but this will be determined by the run of the planking in general.
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Looking for correctly scaled lines and rope
Gregory replied to Michael Smith's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
1:155 Will be a bit challenging, particularly for the smaller sizes.. This may be a case of " what looks good, is good.. " How many different sizes does the model call for... Say it is 5 sizes.. I would go to ropes of scale, or Syren, and choose their 5 smallest sizes. I would then compare them to how they would look on your model.. This chart at Syren may be of some help.. https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/resources/Suren Ultra Scale Rope Size chart.pdf -
What's easier?
Gregory replied to Srenner's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
One might consider the free version of Fusion 360.. -
Just curious why it makes a difference.. Are you banned in one of those states? 😁
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Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Petersson might be a good reference for this model..
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