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Everything posted by Gregory
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I love the color of your AYC, prticularly in the 2nd shot.. I have saved that one and it is my standard now.. If my work doesn't look close to that-tear it off and start over..😁 I hope the lighting doesn't change it much.. Of course it may darken some with age, but you are achieving an exceptional finish. Have I misread somewhere that you are using boxwood, and not AYC?
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P.S In the future, you might consider not following through with a butt joint when it involves a very short piece of blank.
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Without anything else to go on, you lost your symmetry somewhere.. So, you lost your mirror image.. This has happened to me before. Could be a flaw in the kit design.. Something to keep in mind next build.. I don't think it is a big detractor in an otherwise good build so far..
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I have three different Dremel tools. This one is easy to hold and has very low torque.. It usually stops before doing damage.. Dremel 2050 With all Dremel's I would recommend the three jawed chuck.. Keyless Chuck
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It looks like a beveling tool rather than tapering, and would work with very small bites. I see the angle of the blade ( flat ) as a design shortcoming.
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You might try some Fiebing's leather dye. I have used their Burgundy for a reddish look on some boxwood blocks. It can be lightened by wiping quickly after application, with alcohol..
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Bottom paint America 1851.
Gregory replied to Bill Hill's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
According to the book " The Low Black Schooner " by John Rousmaniere, she was launched with copper.. -
Bottom paint America 1851.
Gregory replied to Bill Hill's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I believe she was coppered. -
What does...
Gregory replied to Gregory's topic in Using the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT IN THIS SUB-FORUM**
I thought it might mean something like that, but I see topics that are days and weeks old that haven't changed since my last visit.. -
Just a little more detail to Ponder. You may run into a problem using the planking fan if you don't have wider planking stock than that provided in the kit. However you can work around this by using stealers at the stern. Marquardt's drawing shows at least two stealers and they can be used to accommodate the increased space compared to midships. I've highlighted the two stealers I see. The stealer makes two planks become three. At the other end, there is less space, and tapering will take care of that. However, you don't want the planks at the stem to be too narrow. I believe no more than half a full size plank. This can be mitigated with a ' drop ' plank. I don't know if Marquardt's drawings show any of those. Here is an example from Chuck's Winchelsea. Two planks become one. Please forgive me if I have made undue assumptions about your knowledge or lack thereof regarding stealers and drop planks. ( Some references refer to drop planks as stealers also. )
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Very nice work. I envy how you have been able to progress the way you have in a relatively short period of time..
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The head rails are so far above what has ever been part of a kit.. While I may not build the Winchelsea, it is like master ship modeling school to follow along and anticipate using your ideas in my future builds.
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The original posts seems to be talking about using it off the spool for rigging line. I would be curious to see examples in various sizes that have the appearance of rope.. The crochet thread I have seen wouldn't work for me..
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I would say a drawback, is that it doesn't have a rope-like appearance.
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Anything above 6mm would be a really good exercise in making one's own blocks.. If you have a small table saw, this method from Mondfeld would be a breeze..
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