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Posts posted by Gregory
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For what it is worth, MicroMark makes an adjustable fence like the one shown for the Dremel saw..
The Microlux 4" saw was probably the best before Byrnes came along.
- mtaylor, Bob Blarney and Canute
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Here is the actual drawing with a ruler overlayed. This will not print to actual size.
I will send you a PM with the image that should print to actual size.. It looks like the Bower Anchor is about 75mm at 1:96.
PS
As we discussed in our PM exchange, I think this scale - 1/96 - is off.. Seems off by maybe a factor of 2, and is actually 1:48
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I sure will .. Later today..
Sorry, I didn't think of that when I posted..
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If you didn't get the email, Essex is on sale, and there is an extra 25%off with free shipping over $150
P.S.
You might want to check this out..
MODEL SHIPWAYS 18TH CENTURY LONGBOAT WOODEN MODEL SHIP KIT & TOOLS
A great price with an extra 25% off during this promotion.
Would make a nice practice kit, along with a few extra tools.
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Good explanation Frankie, and brings us back on topic.
If Scott is still curious about a detailed plank on frame kit, here is a pretty good example.
Cutter Alert from Trident Model.. ( Not yet available as far as I know. No updates from Trident lately )
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Gun rigging is exceptionally nice, and does not look out of scale..
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On 12/13/2019 at 1:35 AM, Bob Cleek said:
Outside of Sail Training International's unique commercial parameters, the term "tall ship" is meaningless as nautical nomenclature and people who use it to describe any particular sort of vessel, such as a large square-rigged one, are only proclaiming their status as landsmen.
Which the majority of people are, and don't feel particularly challenged in that regard.
- Keith Black and mtaylor
- 2
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15 minutes ago, rshousha said:
I think it would be simpler to send the plans to someone who does this on a regular basis. Save the cost of the program; spend the time working on the model, not a piece of software you're going to learn in order to do something once every two or three years.
That is assuming that one is only going to " do something once every two or three years ", in which case I agree..
However, I am using a laser cutter to enhance the kits I build, and hope to work on a scratch project someday soon.
I am exploring the use of a CAD program to enhance my parts creating tool box, even though 2D is all I need right now.
Relatively low cost 3d printers and CNC tools are already a reality, and robust 3D software is essential to using these tools effectively.
- mtaylor and thibaultron
- 2
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I see V25 is available on Amazon for $80.. Does that sound like a good deal?
Anyone ever use Turbo Cad. I have a pretty robust version but haven't taken the time to learn it..
Any opinions if it would be worth the effort?
- mtaylor and thibaultron
- 2
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There is much discussion about ratline technique, but it is difficult to do a search because the subject appears in many different topics, including many different build logs.
You will probably get many suggestions from our members.
Here is a technique I like, offered by Jersey City Frankie Glued Ratlines ( Scroll down to post #118 )
I also like what Frankie said in another topic about tying them:
QuoteIf there’s an angel on one shoulder telling you to tie 1,000 clove hitches don’t forget the devil on the other shoulder telling you it’s much easier and faster to simply glue the ratlines across the face of the shrouds, without tying ANY clove hitches. The benefit of glueing is not just speed, it’s also a LOT less bulky. 1,000 clove hitches take up a lot of space. It’s true the real ship certainly has 1,000 clove hitches, but you have to ask yourself if you can tie them as small and as tight.
The thing about knots, is that they can easily appear way out of scale, depending on the scale of the model and the size of the rope used.
Here are some actual ratlines from Victory and Constitution.
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18 hours ago, Mick said:
Thank you Gregory anything will be of help. Mick
My kit also only has two plan sheets. No Sail or mast construction.
There is an instructions booklet with three pages of very sparse English instructions, the bulk of which is a parts list.
I will be happy to copy and email you those three pages if you feel they would be useful.
I would not expect the instructions to be much help to anyone who does not have experience with a few other kits and some considerable knowledge of model ship building in general.
While it may be a bit of a chore to filter it out, all of the information you need should be found here as MSW. Not just the Enterprise logs, but any number of other logs that have a lot to offer in the way of technique and how to progress.
I'm sure there are others, but one Enterprise log that caught my attention is the one by src.. Enterprise by src - Constructo - 1:51 - or Lessons in Adapt Improvise and Overcome
I see 10 Enterprise build logs in the Index of wood build logs. Two of them show finished.
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I like the natural look and the subdued colors. The darker colors provide too much contrast with the lighter wood of the hull, and draw attention away from the model as a whole.
On the contemporary models with darker wood tones, it is not as much of a distraction..
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Any insight as to what materials and methods have enabled this art to last for almost 300 years.
Winchelsea model. Circa 1764..
Has it been restored at some point ?
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1 hour ago, Beckmann said:
....how they did this in earlier times with primitive tools and no technical help.
Because it was a full time job, and we don't see all the throw aways before they got it right......
- FrankWouts and bdgiantman2
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Yellow Ochre Paint
in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Posted
Your links would indicate it ( on the left ) is the final color at this point.
I don't think it is a color I would be comfortable with if I was building the model. I think most observers would question it, as a lot of them seem to be doing now.
I think Druxey's comments above, carry a lot of weight.